Modifying 10 gauge

ssapach

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Perhaps it's a bit too late to ask, seeing as how I've already done this with 50 shells and even used some to shoot some birds today. But perhaps someone will have some pointers or advice for me.

I have a Winchester 1901 that apparently likes 2-7/8" shells, which of course are no longer available on any shelf, so I have started modifying 3-1/2" shells to suit. So far they seem to be working fine, aside from being a bit more pain in the ass than I wanted.

So I made a little jig with a razor blade to cut the shells to a set length......approx 2-3/4". I cut the shells, dump the shot, trim the wad cup and reload the shot. Then put a piece of paper over the shot and glue it around the edges. I've been using some gasket paper as it's a little thicker and punches out quite nicely.



So then, after snooping around the net, I decided I was going to try to make a role crimp.





Looks simple enough, the toughest part was cutting the inner groove with a radius that allows the shell hull to actually roll. This one is a little crude, but it works! I might try to make another and not cut it so deep so it's easy to sharpen a tool bit to cut that inner radius groove.

So I just left it in the lathe to give it a try on a used shell.









I haven't rolled any loaded shells yet. I'm not really sure how much to roll the shell anyways, perhaps someone can shed some light on this for me? I appreciate any constructive criticism, but keep in mind I'm not a professional gunsmith or machinist so my skills are limited.
 
playing with something dangerous here the 3 1/2" shells are loaded hotter for modern guns

that said there is not really any 2 7/8" load data for 10ga unless we are talking going back a few years im talking at least 40 and those powders wads and hulls are no longer made for the most part with shotshell you have to follow thing to a T because where centerfire metallic cartridges show signs of pressure in the primer shot shell will not until its too late
 
I sure hope that the shot is lead.
Obviously you are not able to replace all the shot, the shell and shotcup being shortened - but the powder charge would be way too much for a M1901.
By all means, cut the cases to length, but load them appropriately.
Your crimper looks good! No reason not to use it. You will have to experiment to see how much case you need above the top wad to produce a nice crimp.
 
I guess this is why I posted this. Thanks for the feedback and advice!

The shot is actually steel. I'm assuming it's not exactly safe for the older gun, otherwise it wouldn't have been brought up......

I'm gonna have to do some snooping and probably do full-out reloads for this gun, as I don't want it blowing up in my face from the more powerful charged shells...

Thanks again for the input everyone!
 
I guess this is why I posted this. Thanks for the feedback and advice!

The shot is actually steel. I'm assuming it's not exactly safe for the older gun, otherwise it wouldn't have been brought up......

I'm gonna have to do some snooping and probably do full-out reloads for this gun, as I don't want it blowing up in my face from the more powerful charged shells...

Thanks again for the input everyone!

1901 shotguns were made long before steel shot as a good precaution its not a good idea to fire steel out of any gun made before steel shot was even a thought. id pull the wad get all the smokeless out of the shells and load with black powder using fiber wads and lead shot. just because any data for smokeless in 2 7/8" is long obsolete with black powder it would mean cleaning the gun but it would not have the risk of blowing up.

just looked ballistic products has a 10ga manual with data for 2 7/8" loads with that id also pick up Lyman's 5th edition shotshell book it will help with identifying hulls
 
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