Modifying a stainless 1911 frame?

fightinghamster

fightinghamster

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So I got this stainless 1911 frame from Xtreme gun during the panic inorder to make an AMT hardballer long slide copy, given that this was a panic buy and I hadn’t seen another stainless 1911 for sale I bought it without much thought now that I’ve got it it seems the front section is longer then the standard government model and the trigger guard is squared off, are there any special tools I need to cut this down and shape it to a normal government style frame or am I ok to go ahead with my rotary tool and file

Also I’ve got a stainless plunger tube and ejector ordered and have no idea how to install them, any help and advice is very much appreciated

 
Is it a Dominion arms? Some came with the squared trigger guard. Personally I'd leave it, as it is how it came.

I lend out a plunger tool staking tool. That is required to install. Basically the tube has 2 hollowed pins, you insert it and this tool mushrooms the pins. Securing it to the frame.

Electors come over sized and needed to be blended to the frame, but you need to file a notch and if you mess up. The ejector doesnt stay tight.
 
If you're stuck on the plunger, you're going to have a seriously tough time figuring out the length of barrel link you need to have proper barrel/slide timing.
I'd highly suggest you have it build to ensure the longevity and safety of your build.
 
I think you may be over your head with this one no offence. That frame would make a great monolith 6" long slide. Please don't chop it up if you want to go to Heaven . Think hard on that build .
 
OkayShooter said:
Is it a Dominion arms? Some came with the squared trigger guard. Personally I'd leave it, as it is how it came.

I lend out a plunger tool staking tool. That is required to install. Basically the tube has 2 hollowed pins, you insert it and this tool mushrooms the pins. Securing it to the frame.

Electors come over sized and needed to be blended to the frame, but you need to file a notch and if you mess up. The ejector doesnt stay tight.
Click to expand...

It’s from Xtreme gun I think there in manatoba as far as I know they make the frames in house I don’t mind the look of the frame if I was just building it as is but I want a “terminator 1911” so it needs to be modified
 
Send it to Dlask.
Staking plunger tube is not the beginning of a build, but done after fitting the slide - barrel to frame.
Frame need to be fitted to slide and barrel must also be fitted with the proper link, bushing ect.
Sear and hammer are most likely not drop in and will also need to be fitted.
Get it done properly by pros. You will enjoy a well functioning handgun then instead of a bucket of problems.
 
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No offence taken I’m quite out of my element, I can do fabrication work and welding but I haven’t dabbled into gunsmithing yet and it’s something I really want to get into, if I had another stainless frame to use I would keep this one as is but it’s my only stainless one
 
Buy a tool kit from Brownells to allow you to stack your plunger tube to the frame, dont try to do it without the proper tools, you can damage the pipe. For the ejector, it is straightforward.

You should send it to a smith as you will need to change the trigger guard - only if you don't know how to do it properly, and let the smith stack the tube. To do a slide/barrel and frame fitting is not a thing to be done without the proper knowledge, it can damage the parts.
 
Yet again, I will recommend the Kuhnhausen manuals.

<https://gunbooks.com/books/colt-45-automatic/>

<https://gunbooks.com/books/us-m1911-m1911a1-pistols/>

222 pages with plastic laminated soft cover: With the expanded 10th edition, the original and time tested Colt 45 Auto/M1911 pistol bench manual is now in its 17th printing and remains the best bench inspection, trouble shooting, repair, hand fitting and basic accurizing manual ever published on the subject. Hundreds of photos and illustrations. Covers the Colt Government model, including series 80's, and the U.S. Military M1911 and M1911A1 models. Includes the only really detailed instructions on fitting barrel and link that we’ve seen in print. With the popularity of the .45 still growing, this book will pay for itself many times over.
<https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/colt-45-auto-shop-manual-10th-edition-prod13805.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=HERITAGE%2bGUN%2bBOOKS>

207 pages. 6" x 9". Softbound. Filled with incredibly crisp, clear, cutaway drawings, exploded views, how-to pictographs, and photos; complimented by very readable, detailed text, dimensioned close ups of all the components and valuable tricks of the trade. If you want to understand the 1911, how it functions, what causes it to malfunction and how to fix it, you must have this book. Includes what are probably the best set of instructions for fitting a custom barrel available to date. Jerry Kuhnhausen illustrates how to fit parts to the proper dimensions and install them correctly - a must whether you're building duty guns, casual plinkers, or match winners. Even the index is well laid out and useful. An excellent reference work and practical how-to manual.
<https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/us-m1911-and-m1911a-shop-manual-volume-ii-prod13815.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=HERITAGE%2bGUN%2bBOOKS>
Click to expand...
 
That’s a mighty tall order you’re about to embark on.
A plunger tube will be the least of your learning curve.
It’ll cost you at least a couple thousand for all the proper parts needed, plus several expensive 1911 specific tools and files.

I doubt you’ll be able to slide a new top end on a brand new frame. Lots of lapping there. Barrel and slide lugs, fire components, slide safety, barrel bushing, grip safety, trigger, all have to be fitted precisely with proper cutting files. Maybe a sear/hammer/disconnector jig and Arkansas stones.

Lots of assembly and disassembly along the way.
Great learning experience, I commend you for your desire. Go slow, think lots and remember you can take steel off, but you can’t put it back. You’ll have to buy a new part.

There’s no such thing as drop in fit with 1911s. Everything has to be fitted and timed like a Swiss watch.
I do not recommend dropping in used parts. Used parts are fitted for some other gun. Need to start with new parts.

If you find yourself holding a Dremmel tool, step away from the gun and set the Dremmel down.

Kuhnhousen books.
Read them both attentively and don’t start your project until you understand them well. Use them as a guide going forward. Those have been my bible for years and I still look stuff up in them.

These two:
 
Look at Ed Brown components for the most part. Fair prices. Some from Wilson Combat are worthy too. Slide stop and grip safety and their grip safety jig are great. Most everything else, Ed Brown.
Nowlin barrel. Look into a Cylinder & Slide.

The Kuhnhousen Shop Manuals as Wendell posted above, will give you all the direction, measurements with lots of diagrams of every part on a 1911. Invaluable. A must have before you lift a file.
Happy trails.
 
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