Since this is the Precision Forum rather than the Hunting Rifle forum, I would suggest you pass on the Moly coated bullets unless you intend to use them exclusively.
To obtain the best results with Moly coated bullets, the bore must be treated. But this is pretty simple really and there are a number of ways to do it. A light grease with Moly suspended in it like the product sold by Miss Molly is one example, it can be applied from an aerosol Moly spray, or the messy way is to simply use a funnel and dump Moly into the bore making sure it does not coat the chamber. Moly adheres readily to metal surfaces such as barrel steel or bullet jackets, and no special hoops must be jumped through to obtain good results . . . with one exception. The barrel must be clean and dry. No lube can be present. Using a bore brush or a tight fitting patch on a jag, to work the Moly back and forth, 10-20 passes will do it, which burnishes the barrel.
Treating the bore by shooting Moly coated bullets doesn't work and the results will be poor. Shooting naked bullets through a Moly coated bore doesn't work either. The logic goes like this; when loose Moly is observed through a microscope, it appears as almond shaped particles. When it is pushed under pressure through the bore of a rifle barrel, it layers out not unlike pushing on the top of a deck of cards across a table. The Moly adheres to the metal under little pressure, and fills in voids in the metal surface resulting in a uniform and slippery surface. If there is copper fouling in the barrel, that too will be coated and will leave a lump in the bore surface which will prove very difficult to remove at a later date. Should you attempt to treat the bore by shooting Moly coated bullets through it, the moly will be stripped off the bullet and will be laid down on the barrel, but only for a very short distance because the thickness of the Moly on the bullet is so thin. Once the bullet has been stripped of its Moly, it will foul the remainder of the bore as would a naked bullet. A subsequent shot will now place moly over that fouling for another short distance, then that bullet will foul the remainder of the bore, this will continue as long as you continue to shoot and the bore surface will be lumpy and inconsistent. Conversely if you shoot naked bullets through a Moly treated bore, the bullet will pick up moly from the bore leaving bare spots in the bore which will be fouled by the passage of subsequent bullets, again leaving a very uneven and inconsistent bore surface.
We know that treating the bore is easy, so if you intend to shoot Moly, you might as well do it properly. Treating bullets is equally simple, although some folks make it sound complicated. Get a pill bottle, like a large Tylenol or Vitamin bottle, a 100 capsule bottle will hold a 100 ct box of .224 or 6mm bullets, which should be poured into the bottle without touching. To this add about an eighth of a teaspoon of Moly powder, I use the .7cc powder measure from my Lee spoon measure kit. Now put the bottle in a vibratory tumbler, and allow it to run for about 2 hrs. Dump the bullets onto a clean rag and rub the excess Moly off, then dump onto a second clean rag and repeat. Thats it. The finished product will really impress you.
The quality and grade of the Moly is all important. I use super fine, 1.5 micron, 100% pure Molybdenum Disulfide that I obtained from Rose Mill in Hartford Conn. I bought a 1 pound container which will probably last me the rest of my life.
. I'll likely be writing an article on this process this winter and displaying it on my blog (Riflechair's Lounge).
