Moly Coated Bullets?

OldSavage

OldSavage

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
31   0   0
Location
Southern Ontario
I bought some Vmax's today for my 22-250 and didn't realize untill I got home that they were moly coated.

I know nothing of coated bullets and haven't really been overly experimental with my reloading. Is there any special break in used for these bullets or precedures that would differ from conventional bullets.

I am reloading for a Savage LRPV 22-250 with a round count of 20 (still breaking in). I was going to finish my break in with the remaining 60 rounds of Winchester white box I got lying around.


Thanks
 
20 rounds-I'd say your gun is broken in. but what do i know.
if you don't think the barrel is broken in yet then don't use the moly until you do. my understanding is that when people start using moly bullets they don't clean their rifle for hundreds of rounds adn when they do clean it tends to be a bit more tedious to remove the moly build-up.
i'm in the same prediciment i just got 500 amax in 6.5mm and found out they are moly coated, good? bad? I don't know yet. but i won't complain about the price:)

let us know if you notice a difference in group size with the moly bullets vs regular bullets.
 
Start with a clean barrel when you switch to moly. Then don't clean again until the groups open up:cool: You may need to bump your load up a 1/2 grain or so to bring the velocity back up.
If you want to take the moly off the bullets you already have, throw them in your tumbler for a couple hours.
 
You can tumble them or use clr. Moly is good in some, tight bore barrels, but otherwise they are just a gimmick for people that don't like cleaning there barrel.
 
MagnumPeanut said:
You can tumble them or use clr. Moly is good in some, tight bore barrels, but otherwise they are just a gimmick for people that don't like cleaning there barrel.
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter if you use Moly coated or bare bullets, the point is you really don't need to clean until the groups open up. We have a group of 4 of us from our club that travel to most provincial and national long range matches. Three of us use Moly and one uses Danzac (sp). The guy that uses Danzac and 2 of us that use moly don't clean unless the groups open up. The one guy that uses Moly uses Kroil and ten strokes with a nylon bore brush, then dry patches after every day. While he is working on his rifle the rest of us have a rum and coke and watch him:D
I know other shooters that only shoot bare bullets and will only clean when the groups open up. While they may go 300 rounds or more, I have gone over 800 round before cleaning:eek:
Then of course there are the guys that will clean every day no matter what. Each barrel is different and the only way to find out how yours shoots best is to shoot it until the groups open up, gimmick or not.
 
No, I agree. I guess I came across wrong. I had a pac nor that really liked moly and like you said I could shoot it all day without cleaning it. But most guys I talk to with factory or aftermarket barrels don't like how moly shoot and find them more of a pain than good. Personally I would rather scrub my barrel a few more times.
 
Tried all sorts of .223 bullets in my .220 swift, the Hornady 40gr. moly's worked best, I kept using them, I cleaned every 3-400 ish rds.
I use a foaming cleaner (barrell blaster) leave in in over night and the next day I put a patch down twice with hoppes 9 on it and then two dry patches, looks like a brand new barrell. 8-10 hrs of sitting with the foam, 5 min. of patches and its done.
The moly shot better in that gun so I used it.

M.
 
Thanks guys. I think I'll finish off the white box, then clean like a mofo and switch to the moly. This will be my first time loaded for the 22-250 and I'm sure it will take awhile to work my loads up, but that's half the fun.
 
maynard said:
I know other shooters that only shoot bare bullets and will only clean when the groups open up. While they may go 300 rounds or more, I have gone over 800 round before cleaning
Click to expand...

:wave:

Glad to know I'm not alone! I've shot bare bullets and have done it this way since day one; on my rifle, about 700 rounds and they start opening up but, until then, just some dry patches to get the powder out and oil to protect against corrosion...

After reading this thread, I'll go and try moly, since those are the only target bullets my local stores are carrying anymore...
 
maynard said:
It doesn't matter if you use Moly coated or bare bullets, the point is you really don't need to clean until the groups open up. We have a group of 4 of us from our club that travel to most provincial and national long range matches. Three of us use Moly and one uses Danzac (sp). The guy that uses Danzac and 2 of us that use moly don't clean unless the groups open up. The one guy that uses Moly uses Kroil and ten strokes with a nylon bore brush, then dry patches after every day. While he is working on his rifle the rest of us have a rum and coke and watch him:D
I know other shooters that only shoot bare bullets and will only clean when the groups open up. While they may go 300 rounds or more, I have gone over 800 round before cleaning:eek:
Then of course there are the guys that will clean every day no matter what. Each barrel is different and the only way to find out how yours shoots best is to shoot it until the groups open up, gimmick or not.
Click to expand...


Danzac is a tradmarked name for what is simply tungsten disulfide, very similar to moly. It seems to have the property of only building up to a certain thickness, not a continous buildup as moly does, at least that was what the original packaging of Danzac I had said. I bought 1/4 lb of technical grade tungsten disulfide at a much lower cost several years ago and cannot tell any difference and have only touched the amount in the bottle. It will probably last me the rest of my life if I do not misplace it. You can also put a little on a dry patch and burnish it into a clean dry barrel, makes it shine like a mirror.
 
I have done my own moly coating for a number of years and found out that to take advantage of moly you need to 1 start with a totaly clean barrel 2 keep it clean 3 will be nessary to increase powder charge 4 polish internal case necks with steel wool 5 increase neck tension . powder and moly will still build up in barrel with each shot fired. moly only decreases copper build up or fouling as many call it.
 
The information I have is that while moly is a good idea, it is of limited value unless the bore of the rifle is first treated with it. Moly from the bullet is deposited in the bore of the untreated barrel, but after a few inches of travel, it gets down to bare copper, at which point it is the same as shooting an uncoated bullet. The subsequent shot lays down moly over the fouling, which is worse than not using it in the first place, because you now have three contaminants rather than just copper and carbon.

If you could see the surface of an untreated rifle bore under a microscope, you would see that the surface is rough and irregular. A coating of moly in the bore fills the irregularities, and thus provides a surface with less friction. Velocity increases, the bore is protected from the heat of the propellant gases and barrel life is extended as a result.

Having said all that, I don't use it.
 
Last edited:
Boomer said:
The information I have is that while moly is a good idea, it is of limited value unless the bore of the rifle is first treated with it. Moly from the bullet is deposited in the bore of the untreated barrel, but after a few inches of travel, it gets down to bare copper, at which point it is the same as shooting an uncoated bullet. The subsequent shot lays down moly over the fouling, which is worse than not using it in the first place, because you now have three contaminants rather than just copper and carbon.

If you could see the surface of an untreated rifle bore under a microscope, you would see that the surface is rough and irregular. A coating of moly in the bore fills the irregularities, and thus provides a surface with less friction. Velocity increases, the bore is protected from the heat of the propellant gases and barrel life is extended as a result.

Having said all that, I don't use it.
Click to expand...

This may be a dumb question, but if you put some moly slip on a patch and and run it down a barrel, would the barrel be then considered treated with molly and then be ready to use molly coated rounds?
 
I'm not sure what the best way to apply moly to the bore would be, but putting moly on a patch would seem to produce fairly inconsistent results. I suspect the proper technique is to simply pug the muzzle, drop a teaspoon of moly into the chamber, plug the chamber, them slowly rotate the rifle from muzzle up to muzzle down for several minutes, them unplug the muzzle and dump out any remaining powder. I'm not sure this is the best way, but I have the instructions on a DVD, so I'll check later.
 
There are products for patching your barrel with moly, such as Lyman's bore cream, and it actually is more of a cream than a powder.

Much of the internet disinformation or passing on of myth on moly is from people who've never used it, or very briefly did it and did it wrong. I've never heard so much BS on any rifle subject, except maybe barrel break-in.

It's not hard to get out of your barrel (even back to a pre-moly state). It increases barrel life, and it increases the period of time your barrel shoots well while fouled. It allows you to get less pressure with the same load (thus the barrel life, and also the potential need to up the powder to regain velocity). It decreases throat tension. It also may or may not cause a certain bullet to shoot better (that one's not fact, just a truth from my own experience). I've read that theoretically it can attract moisture to the bore, but you'd have to be pretty negligent with your rifle to have that happen. If you're out in the rain, clean your barrel, as you should anyway, moly or not.

David Tubb is a top, probably the top/i], shooter of our lifetime, here's his take on moly:
http://www.zediker.com/articles/mca.pdf

And his take on moly barrel cleaning:
http://www.zediker.com/articles/mcc.pdf
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom