moly coated bullets

From what I have found a little easyer on barrels maybe a few feet per sec faster, you might have to find a barrel cleaner that works well with it but other than that should find no ill effects, more than likely only good stuff.
 
Moly greatly reduces copper fouling and the need to clean the barrel. You will need to get the bore coated in moly before shooting which can be done with a moly grease soaked patch.

Moly IS hygroscopic (absorbs water) so you must oil the bore before putting the rifle away or you will come back to a corroded bore.

Other than that it is pretty easy to live with. For high volume varminting it is the cats ass.
 
I use nothing but moly in 2 of my rifles.

In my 260 that I've had since 2006 with a Gilliard barrel no problems.

In my 308 that I've had for almost 2 years with a Kreiger barrel no problems.

I can say for sure the only benefit I see is that I'm not spending much time cleaning barrels.

I use Lapua scenars with the factory moly coating.
 
I use moly in my .243. I use moly paste to treat the barrel and superfine moly powder to coat the bullets. Moly is a lubricant, but not a rust inhibitor, you need to run a patch wet with oil through the bore between shooting sessions if you live in a humid part of the country.

I see Suputin beat me to it on the oil part.
 
i would rather clean my barrel and have to replace it a few hundrede shots sooner then deal with moly, it gets ALL over every thing, hands, relaoding gear, table.. do alot of loading with moly bullets and it builds up in your die, eventually changing seating depth
 
it gets ALL over every thing, hands, relaoding gear, table.. do alot of loading with moly bullets and it builds up in your die, eventually changing seating depth

This is true, I started using moly and doing my own coating and it is messy for sure. I switched to the factory coated scenars and all of mess is gone. The factory coating seems to have a much better bond and little to no residue.
 
I've managed to escape the "moly mess" by:

1) Coating small batches of bullets at a time; usually 100.
2) Using a minimal amount of moly for each batch, about an eight of a teaspoon, and by not spilling the jar of moly.
3) By applying the moly to the bullets in a pill or vitamin bottle, and letting it roll around in the vibratory tumbler for an hour or two.
4) If the lid is not child proof, I make sure the lid points to the left when I put it in the tumbler, otherwise it can come off as the container rolls
5) I dump the coated bullets onto a heavy duty paper towel or mechanics towel placed over a couple of sheets of newspaper, rub the bullets vigorously, then pour them onto a clean paper towel and repeat
6) The bullets are now coated, the paper towels and newspaper are disposed of, and no moly has escaped to coat the inside of the house.
 
The factory coating seems to have a much better bond and little to no residue.

factory moly'd bullets have an extra coating of wax to prevent the moly rubbing off.

1) Coating small batches of bullets at a time; usually 100.
2) Using a minimal amount of moly for each batch, about an eight of a teaspoon, and by not spilling the jar of moly.
3) By applying the moly to the bullets in a pill or vitamin bottle, and letting it roll around in the vibratory tumbler for an hour or two.
4) If the lid is not child proof, I make sure the lid points to the left when I put it in the tumbler, otherwise it can come off as the container rolls
5) I dump the coated bullets onto a heavy duty paper towel or mechanics towel placed over a couple of sheets of newspaper, rub the bullets vigorously, then pour them onto a clean paper towel and repeat
6) The bullets are now coated, the paper towels and newspaper are disposed of, and no moly has escaped to coat the inside of the house.

This is more or less how I do it only I use a couple of old towels to roll the bullets back and forth in a quick "burnishing step". It works wonders.

Moly is quite easy to clean up with soap and water. With water alone it doesn't seem to come off at all.
 
I use Moly on every bullet shot with the exception of lead or specialty bullets. Bullets are coated using the Lyman kit. If you follow the instructions and are reasonably careful, mess is kept to a minimum.

FYI. NECO sells the carnuba wax used in their kits as a separate item.
 
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