Moly coating ???

As far as i know, you can prevent this buildup by cleaning your gun after every shooting session. You know...like how you should (at least that's what i was taught!) Provided you don't repeatedly put it away without cleaning, it shouldn't be a problem. Kinda like the powder ring you get from shooting 38 spl in a .357 chamber. Phosphor bronze brush, and some solvent and a little elbow grease. You'll just have to fire a few fouling shots next time to get that coat of moly back in the barrel. But why? What was ever wrogn enough with plain copper jackets....
 
I offer moly coating on cast bullets but accuracy testing has been hit and miss, when does a bullet get "too slippery" and possibly "slip" the rifling?
 
I used high temp industrial molybedeum bi sulphite (spelling?) as purchased in an aerosol can for a bit more then 1000 CF rifle rounds. Before shooting I cleaned the barrel (I mean clean) warmed it and coated it with the moly.Then polished till the coating was like glass, still moly coated but no longer leaving traces on the polishing cloth. Bullets were coated the same way. Never had any trouble, greatly reduced barrel heat, took more powder for a given velocity but achieved higher velocities than I could with un coated bore/bullet.
I was told at the time by someone who's experience I trusted that coating the bore was an important part. I think this was after I had crazy fluctuations in MV while using moly bullets with my normal load and uncoated barrel.

P>S do not coat the chamber!
 
maynard said:
I have gone over 800 rounds of moly without cleaning my target rifles and still won matches.
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I'm about 1000 rounds of moly coated vmaxs into my 223AI without so much as a single patch down the barrel. Still shoots half MOA, with higher velocities than I could get with un-coated bullets.
 
Moly coating has been an option on my cast bullets for 7 years, much less smoke but I don't push it as my accuracy results have been mixed, I found that if the bullet is a poor (small) fit, accuracy goes south even faster then with reg. lube. This i found working with a Marlin Micro-groove .444, where .430" cast bullets shot poorly, but even poorer with moly, I abandoned moly in the micro-grooves.
 
I tried moly,but after cleaning the moly out of the barrel,after 50 rounds or so,I found copper fouling in the bore.Apparently it does not prevent copper fouling.As well,after cleaning,accuracy was erratic for five to ten rounds,until the bore was coated with moly..
 
stubblejumper said:
.As well,after cleaning,accuracy was erratic for five to ten rounds,until the bore was coated with moly..
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Yeah, I notice that too.

However, for the amount of rounds I get between cleanings, I can live with it.

And its kind of interesting to me to watch groups get progressively smaller over 8 or 10 rounds.

As to the question of why don't more people use it? Who knows. Why don't more people use the myriad of bore/bullet coatings that have been shown to work?

Another step, messy, who knows.

I use it in all of my centerfire rifles now, and like it.
 
I went through the "moly phase", coated a lot of bullets and treated many bores. Could not see any real advantage in the big picture, so abandoned the process. Cleaned up all my bores [hard work] and now shoot naked bullets again. Eagleye.
 
I've tried moly in 2 rifles (308/223). Comparing results with another 308 I'd say the moly does have a bit of an advantage, cleaning and prolonged accuracy. The moly'd barrels maintain accuracy for at least 100 rounds, if not more, the non moly opens up JUST A BIT after about 50. This isn't very scientific but just what I've observed I'd say the moly is better. It's up to the individual to see if the extra $ are worth the improvement, perhaps you won't see the diff, I did. Ben Hunchak, several years ago when the moly craze started, I read in a cast bullet article about a guy that took a jacketed bullet and tried to push it through a die(?) with and without moly. Without, he had to be careful about starting it straight. With moly it self centred and he was unable to get it started off centre. Wish I could find the article, I think it was in Cast Bullet Association. I've only tried moly on cast once and it was very good. However I've found that most lubes perform well if not pushed to hard. The best I've used for a fast load was LBT blue though it is hard to get hold of. I have some on hand and reserve it for the high vel stuff.
 
Everything that I shoot is Moly coated - pistol, revolver and CF rifle. I shoot 6mm BR Norma most often and do not clean prior to shot counts of 300 or more. I find that accuracy decreases after cleaning my 6BR.

I check all of my bores regularly with a Hipp Endoscope (4 different angled mirror tubes) and have yet to notice a Moly ring on any kind following multiple thousands of rounds in a factory barreled rifle.

You will find copper plating under Moly if you do not "season" or coat the bore prior to shooting coated bullets. Each bullet will only coat 30mm or so of untreated rifling successively before bare copper is exposed to the rifling.
 
I used to get deviations in the range of +/- 50 fps before I started Moly coating. I have shot 20 moly coated bullets in a row over the chronograph and seen 7 fps of total variation from slowest to fastest. not bad at 2975 fps for 200 grain bullets out of a 300 win mag
 
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