More AR newb questions - handguard

macds

macds

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Got my dpms oracle, damned thing is tiny
The hand guard on it is useless to me, and would like to change it out.
Im under the impression the the gas block needs to be changed to a low profile one. Do I need to change the gas tube as well? Doesnt look like it.

Hand guard, I've been looking at the Aero atlas r-one m-lok.
Is that a decent piece?

I would like to set up fixed irons, with the pin out as far as i can, while leaving room for a red dot and a swing magnifier. Possibly a low magnification scope, like 1-6
Would a 15" hand guard be too long for the 16" barrel the oracle? I kind of have bad thoughts about possibly having my hand so close to the muzzle and still on the guard, if you know what I mean.
Are these hand guards engineered so that they sit on the same plane as the receiver, so its like a monolithic?

Sorry, Im right green on this platform.

Any suggestions?
 
macds said:
Got my dpms oracle, damned thing is tiny
The hand guard on it is useless to me, and would like to change it out.
Im under the impression the the gas block needs to be changed to a low profile one. Do I need to change the gas tube as well? Doesnt look like it.
You might have to change it, you might not. You could just grind off the railed part. No need to change gas tube.

Hand guard, I've been looking at the Aero atlas r-one m-lok.
Is that a decent piece?

I would like to set up fixed irons, with the pin out as far as i can, while leaving room for a red dot and a swing magnifier. Possibly a low magnification scope, like 1-6
Would a 15" hand guard be too long for the 16" barrel the oracle? I kind of have bad thoughts about possibly having my hand so close to the muzzle and still on the guard, if you know what I mean.
Not too long. You could always put a handstop on the end if you're worried.

Are these hand guards engineered so that they sit on the same plane as the receiver, so its like a monolithic?
Yes

Sorry, Im right green on this platform.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

123
 
Alternatively you can buy a Vism or UTG Pro Carbine Length Extended Handguard which works around your A2 front post if you've got one I can't remember if the oracle does or not... that way you don't have to change the gas block or free float your hand guard. It's drop in no tools required.

You won't have the added accuracy in your irons that a free float will afford you but you'll likely be using your upper rail mounted RDS and magnifier anyway (irons as back ups)

Only problem is, I can't find anywhere in Canada with the UTG Pro version in stock.

med-img-mtu015ss_utg_pro.gif
 
macds said:
Got my dpms oracle, damned thing is tiny
The hand guard on it is useless to me, and would like to change it out.
Im under the impression the the gas block needs to be changed to a low profile one. Do I need to change the gas tube as well? Doesnt look like it.

Hand guard, I've been looking at the Aero atlas r-one m-lok.
Is that a decent piece?

Look at this Magpul one >>>> https://www.magpul.com/firearms-accessories/hand-guards/see-all

I would like to set up fixed irons, with the pin out as far as i can, while leaving room for a red dot and a swing magnifier. Possibly a low magnification scope, like 1-6
Would a 15" hand guard be too long for the 16" barrel the oracle? I kind of have bad thoughts about possibly having my hand so close to the muzzle and still on the guard, if you know what I mean.
Are these hand guards engineered so that they sit on the same plane as the receiver, so its like a monolithic?

Sorry, Im right green on this platform.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Check the Magpul one ?
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, but if im going to do it, i figure I might as well free float it at the same time with a 15" aluminum guard.
Then if I decide to go to a longer match type barrel down the road, im set.

Deckard mentions tools to do this.
Ive seen guys use a squeezy thing in videos to remove the plastic stock guards, i can do that by hand.
I can machine the gas block down if i need to, and i have punches.
What else is there? wrench?
 
yeah the D-ring squeezer tool is for soft men with weak hands...

It's the electric can opener of AR-15's
 
macds said:
Thanks for the ideas guys, but if im going to do it, i figure I might as well free float it at the same time with a 15" aluminum guard.
Then if I decide to go to a longer match type barrel down the road, im set.

Deckard mentions tools to do this.
Ive seen guys use a squeezy thing in videos to remove the plastic stock guards, i can do that by hand.
I can machine the gas block down if i need to, and i have punches.
What else is there? wrench?
Click to expand...

If your new handguard uses a different nut than the factory nut, you'll need to remove the barrel / barrel nut. An armorers wrench will be needed https://truenortharms.com/ar15_default_store_view/ar-15-tools/wrenches.html to remove it properly. The aero handguard you're looking at uses it's own, proprietary nut so the factory one needs to come off.
 
seth said:
Alternatively you can buy a Vism or UTG Pro Carbine Length Extended Handguard which works around your A2 front post if you've got one I can't remember if the oracle does or not... that way you don't have to change the gas block or free float your hand guard. It's drop in no tools required.

You won't have the added accuracy in your irons that a free float will afford you but you'll likely be using your upper rail mounted RDS and magnifier anyway (irons as back ups)

Only problem is, I can't find anywhere in Canada with the UTG Pro version in stock.

med-img-mtu015ss_utg_pro.gif
Click to expand...

VISM and UTG is garbage and about as bottom of the barrel you can get.
 
If you're removing and replacing the barrel nut, you'll need either a block (Magpul makes a decent one) or a reaction rod to prevent the Upper from getting torqued. Either one locks the barrel in place to relieve the strain on the receiver when you're heaving on the barrel nut. They lock into the bolt locking surfaces to prevent movement and isolate the barrel.

https://www.magpul.com/products/bev-block-ar15-m4
 
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Sinasta said:
VISM and UTG is garbage and about as bottom of the barrel you can get.
Click to expand...

Vism yes (it's NCStar) but UTG Pro is made in the USA and is getting quite good reviews online.

UTG and UTG Pro (Leapers) are totally different product lines... yes UTG started out as Airsoft parts... so did magpul ;)
 
seth said:
Vism yes (it's NCStar) but UTG Pro is made in the USA and is getting quite good reviews online.

UTG and UTG Pro (Leapers) are totally different product lines... yes UTG started out as Airsoft parts... so did magpul ;)
Click to expand...

Leapers is absolute garbage as well. Just because its made in the US doesnt mean its any better.
 
Sinasta said:
Leapers is absolute garbage as well. Just because its made in the US doesnt mean its any better.
Click to expand...

Maybe.

Or maybe their drop in non free floated handguards are really all someone who buys a budget AR to shoot a handful of times a year really needs.

Judging by your HK avatar I'm thinking affordable options aren't really your bag.

 
dacron said:
Magpul started making AR-15 magazines, it gave them their company name. Not airsoft.
Click to expand...

Actually they started by making Mag-Pulls little rubber tabs for the bottom of AR mags. Hence the name. While I guess they didn't start as an airsoft parts company, they were all the rage in the airsoft world until they grew into a formidable firearms accessories company. They weren't always the gold standard name they are now.
 
macds said:
Thanks for the ideas guys, but if im going to do it, i figure I might as well free float it at the same time with a 15" aluminum guard.
Then if I decide to go to a longer match type barrel down the road, im set.

Deckard mentions tools to do this.
Ive seen guys use a squeezy thing in videos to remove the plastic stock guards, i can do that by hand.
I can machine the gas block down if i need to, and i have punches.
What else is there? wrench?
Click to expand...

If you are comfortable machining your own parts, and are handy with a hammer and punch, then you will easily figure out the rest as you go. Depending on what parts you end up going with you may want to consider a set of action blocks for the vice.
 
seth said:
Actually they started by making Mag-Pulls little rubber tabs for the bottom of AR mags. Hence the name. While I guess they didn't start as an airsoft parts company, they were all the rage in the airsoft world until they grew into a formidable firearms accessories company. They weren't always the gold standard name they are now.
Click to expand...

They were always known to make quality parts from the get go. And instead of having airsofters make knockoffs of their parts, they decided to get into the market with their PTS line.

seth said:
Maybe.

Or maybe their drop in non free floated handguards are really all someone who buys a budget AR to shoot a handful of times a year really needs.

Judging by your HK avatar I'm thinking affordable options aren't really your bag.
Click to expand...

I buy what I consider to be reliable at a point when there is a diminishing rate of return on what I spend. I can buy a Aimpoint T2 or spend a quarter of it on a Holosun 403R and have the same battery life and maybe less robust but is fine for Canadian paper punching. Same as a RMR or I can spend less than half on a Holosun 507C and the rest on ammo. And yes I did previously own Aimpoints and RMRs.

I also switched to Glocks too.
 
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seth said:
Actually they started by making Mag-Pulls little rubber tabs for the bottom of AR mags. Hence the name. While I guess they didn't start as an airsoft parts company, they were all the rage in the airsoft world until they grew into a formidable firearms accessories company. They weren't always the gold standard name they are now.
Click to expand...

Correct. The original Mag Pull
 
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