I have a mosin nagant sniper. Love it its one of my favorite rifles to shoot but at 100 yards its hit and miss..mostly miss at a 4 inch square plate I want to bed it but I dont know if that will distory its collectable factor, looking for input and possibly a bedding compound easy to get even if its not literally for bedding. Thanks!
mosin 91/30 original sniper bedding?
- Thread starter 7.62xfun
- Start date
gewehr76
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Snipers would not bed or do anything to that extent with these rifles. What the'll do is simple field modification, which is wrapping a bands of felt or sand bag material around barrel between handguard and stock. Tighten all screws and zero the rifle. You'll find how drastically it will improve accuracy.
There are few others like that, I don't have them memorized. If you look at mosinnagant.com site or 7.62X54r, you will find them there.
There are few others like that, I don't have them memorized. If you look at mosinnagant.com site or 7.62X54r, you will find them there.
Two things the Russians and Finns did were wrap the barrel and shim the stock at the tang and recoil lug.
For the wrap they used linseed oiled canvas. You'll have a hard time finding that in thin strips (or at all) in Canada today but you can find waxed canvas which works just the same. If you have any trouble finding waxed canvas, I'll send you a strip if you're willing to cover the shipping.
Smith sights sells a shim and pressure pad kit and ships to Canada. You could also cut the shims yourself out of brass shim stock.
After wrapping and shimming get the action screws very tight, 50lbs tight. You'll now have minute of German head.
For the wrap they used linseed oiled canvas. You'll have a hard time finding that in thin strips (or at all) in Canada today but you can find waxed canvas which works just the same. If you have any trouble finding waxed canvas, I'll send you a strip if you're willing to cover the shipping.
Smith sights sells a shim and pressure pad kit and ships to Canada. You could also cut the shims yourself out of brass shim stock.
After wrapping and shimming get the action screws very tight, 50lbs tight. You'll now have minute of German head.
Last edited:
Will try this on my M38
Two things the Russians and Finns did were wrap the barrel and shim the stock at the tang and recoil lug.
For the wrap they used linseed oiled canvas. You'll have a hard time finding that in thin strips (or at all) in Canada today but you can find waxed canvas which works just the same.
Smith sights sells a shim and pressure pad kit and ships to Canada.
After wrapping and shimming get the action screws very tight, 50lbs tight. You'll now have minute of German head.
Here is a diagram:
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
There's 3 things you can do to any Mosin to make it more accurate, well 4:
1- Get one with a good strong bore!
2- Shim the action as above and barrel or bed the whole receiver into the stock. That's the easier method and the better method, the oneI used. I used JB weld as a bedding agent and used black shoe polish as a release agent on the receiver/barrel. Smear the polish all over the underside of the receiver and the barrel, don't be shy, get her on there thick! Then mix up the JB weld, again put a lot all over the inlets of the stock and along the length of the barrel channel. Put the receiver into the stock and then tighten the screws until the JB weld pushes up and out of the stock. Clean up the stuff that spills over onto the unpolished metal and stock. You want it to fill all the small gaps where the metal isn't touching the wood. Keep in mind you will have to be careful around the areas where the screws pass through the stock, I coated the screws with polish very thickly as well. Let it set and harden for a coupel hours or for specific product set time, then remove the receiver and screws and let it harden up good.
3- Do a trigger job. Cut a small square off an old credit card etc Undo the screw that holds in the springy sear underneath the receiver which the trigger bends down to release the bolt knob and fire the rifle. Drill a hole in your plastic square so the screw will pass through it. Then place it between the receiver and the springy sear piece, put the screw in and tighten it down. You just took off a lot of lbs of force required to release the bolt knob, if you're feeling a little more up to it while you have it apart, polish the surface of the sear and the bolt knob to make the break even more clean. You can use a clothespin spring to make a "dual stage" trigger, essentially coiling it around the trigger retaining pin to take up the 3 inches of slack on trigger when it's cocked.
4- Get your muzzle crown either recrowned or if the barrel is very worn at the tip, cut an inch or so off the barrel and then get it recrowned.
Also, use good old fashioned surplus ammo that the rifles were made for. You would be amazed at how much you can improve the accuracy of these old beasts with those steps. Not just accuracy but consistency, especially with the bedding and trigger job.
PM me if you need any help!
1- Get one with a good strong bore!
2- Shim the action as above and barrel or bed the whole receiver into the stock. That's the easier method and the better method, the oneI used. I used JB weld as a bedding agent and used black shoe polish as a release agent on the receiver/barrel. Smear the polish all over the underside of the receiver and the barrel, don't be shy, get her on there thick! Then mix up the JB weld, again put a lot all over the inlets of the stock and along the length of the barrel channel. Put the receiver into the stock and then tighten the screws until the JB weld pushes up and out of the stock. Clean up the stuff that spills over onto the unpolished metal and stock. You want it to fill all the small gaps where the metal isn't touching the wood. Keep in mind you will have to be careful around the areas where the screws pass through the stock, I coated the screws with polish very thickly as well. Let it set and harden for a coupel hours or for specific product set time, then remove the receiver and screws and let it harden up good.
3- Do a trigger job. Cut a small square off an old credit card etc Undo the screw that holds in the springy sear underneath the receiver which the trigger bends down to release the bolt knob and fire the rifle. Drill a hole in your plastic square so the screw will pass through it. Then place it between the receiver and the springy sear piece, put the screw in and tighten it down. You just took off a lot of lbs of force required to release the bolt knob, if you're feeling a little more up to it while you have it apart, polish the surface of the sear and the bolt knob to make the break even more clean. You can use a clothespin spring to make a "dual stage" trigger, essentially coiling it around the trigger retaining pin to take up the 3 inches of slack on trigger when it's cocked.
4- Get your muzzle crown either recrowned or if the barrel is very worn at the tip, cut an inch or so off the barrel and then get it recrowned.
Also, use good old fashioned surplus ammo that the rifles were made for. You would be amazed at how much you can improve the accuracy of these old beasts with those steps. Not just accuracy but consistency, especially with the bedding and trigger job.
PM me if you need any help!
Oh... good one !!!
I can vouch for this. I shimmed the trigger on one of mine and was able to take considerable travel off of the pull. The shim makes it so the sear doesn't have to drop down nearly as far before the firing pin is released. This is a non-permanent modification. You could also bend the sear spring to lower it (some YouTube tutorials out there), and you could always order a Finnish 2 stage trigger off of eBay.
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Seen. Hopefully it works out. You can still do the trigger sear shim mod to drastically improve the trigger.
What I did actually was bought a run of the mill war production refurbed 91/30 with a good strong bore.
Chopped the barrel down to about 21 inches. Chopped the stock and handguard back and recapped them just like they were.
Moved the barrel band spring back in the stock.
Had a new crown put on the barrel then got the brass stacker front sight ring from the US so I could use the original front sight at the new barrel location.
Then did all the modifications I mentioned above. Filed the front post down until I made POI exactly on POA at 100 meters.
The thing shoots great! I can do 3-4" groups consistently at 100 meters using good old el cheapo surplus. It's become one of my favorite shooters.
