Mosin Front Sight

mosinmaster

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Hi,

Can you raise the front sight by drifting the hood off, and then using a punch to push the existing front sight a little higher via the hole in the bottom?
 
Hi,

Can you raise the front sight by drifting the hood off, and then using a punch to push the existing front sight a little higher via the hole in the bottom?

No, the sight pin has a big fat taper at the end, you will never drift it up; any force that would push that taper through that hole would demolish the sight. however if you drift it down you can turn the taper off and move it up then tap a hole perpendicular to the sight pin to lock it in place.
 
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No, the sight pin has a big fat taper at the end, you will never drift it up; any force that would push that taper through that hole would demolish the sight. however if you drift it down you can turn the taper off and move it up then tap a hole perpendicular to the sight pin to lock it in place.

In other words the old electrical tape trick is they way to do it
 
On average, how much higher do you guys set your front sight post to zero at 100 yards? 0.5 cm?

P.S. I was thinking of cutting a bit off my low E guitar string to add some height, and then just support it by gluing it, then support wrapping with electrical tape. The low E is .046 inches in diameter, the A is 0.036 inches, and D is 0.026 inches. Plus, the strings are nickelplated steel wrap wound around a hex core so it should be plenty stiff and durable. They are designed to be corrosion resistant since they need to resist rusting from finger oil and sweat. You think it could work?
guitar-string-01.jpg
 
I prefer heat shrink, it needs about 1/16th of an inch, but make it a bit longer then slowly cut it back with some precision snips once you're at the range.

If you have the front sight off, just knock out the pin and replace it with a finishing nail a bit longer.
 
The front sight of a Mosin is already so fat it blocks out a good portion of the target at 100 meters. Adding a piece of shrink tubing makes it even wider. An adjustable tapered Smith sight is the only fix. This picture is how high I had to raise the sight to get to the POI at 100 meters. And yes you can push the sight post higher in the sight by filing the taper down at the bottom and pushing it in farther. I've been screwing around with this for some time now. The Smith-Sight is the best fix. At 200 meters a piece of shrink tubing or electrical tape might get you on the paper if your lucky.
If you feel the need to DIY, tap the post out, Drill and tap an adjusting screw hole and use whatever you want for a post. d:h:
@Fiddler. I have an extra "classic" Smith-Sight and will send it to you for your evaluation for free. You hunt with Mosin's and are the gunnut that is the most qualified to put this to rest. PM me and I'll send it. I might sound like I'm getting a commission for pimping these sights, but that's how pumped I am about a good product.
mosinexsniper034.jpg
 
The front sight of a Mosin is already so fat it blocks out a good portion of the target at 100 meters. Adding a piece of shrink tubing makes it even wider. An adjustable tapered Smith sight is the only fix. This picture is how high I had to raise the sight to get to the POI at 100 meters.


There are several sizes of heat shrink that are available from most electronic wholesalers, and if you get the smallest size you can fit over the post and heat it slowly, it will shrink to half the diameter of the original Mosin post.


Personally, I think it looks like a really decent product that is well manufactured and will solve the elevation issues for most Mosin rifles, but at the same time, I have close to a dozen Mosins and deem it impractical to modify them all.


As far as a test drive, I'm game. PM sent.
 
I mad up a new front sight from a 2 1/2 inch finishing nail using a drill press and a file. The head was meaty enough to file to the taper to fit the sight base and the shaft of the nail was thick enough to allow me to file it to a a nice push fit into the sight base. Size while it was being filed down was checked frequently using a dial caliper. The blade was tapered slightly to a narrow top and then cut off about 1/16 higher than the stocker. The plan was to bring along a small needle file to cut the post down but it seems like I pretty much got it first time. With one click up on the rear it seems to be zeroed in nicely for 100 yards. I ran out of ammo before I could tell for sure. Bottom linewas that it wasn't all that hard to make a new post from the nail. A hand drill motor could be used just as easily.
 
Finally got to sight in my '42 Izzy 91/30. Shot 12" high @ 100 yds with Russian milsurp, but at least some 3 shot groups were 1.5". The best I could manage was 4" 5 shot groups repeatably with milsurp. My eyes and -12C is all I could do. Handloads will tighten those groups most def.

After what Josh and Chumlee have done and not to take away anything from Josh Smiths nice sights, I decided to modify my sight.

I like the idea of a proper adjustable sight. Just wish other milsurps were as easy to convert as the Mosins.
It helps to have a Bridgeport Mill and good lathe so as to get that 6x48 hole drilled and tapped precisely. There is not much room there and getting it right the first time dead center is the only way. The original sight punched out easy from the top, then I turned the taper a little enough so the sight would pop up 1/16", loctited the set screw and ready to zero next time at the range.

Not the best camera and pic, but I hope you can see it.

img6614zl.jpg
 
I use a 1/8" aluminum rivet drilled out to fit very snuggly onto existing sight. I belive the drill size was 5/64. It press fits on nicely and you file it down to adjust size. I also taper the sides to thin it down.
 
I just tapped the hole for 6-32 and ran another one in perpendicular. Then I turned a long 6-32 set screw into a sight pin. not as nice as the smith sight with the fiber optic but fast enough for an old man.
DSCF2724.jpg
 
I mad up a new front sight from a 2 1/2 inch finishing nail using a drill press and a file. The head was meaty enough to file to the taper to fit the sight base and the shaft of the nail was thick enough to allow me to file it to a a nice push fit into the sight base. Size while it was being filed down was checked frequently using a dial caliper. The blade was tapered slightly to a narrow top and then cut off about 1/16 higher than the stocker. The plan was to bring along a small needle file to cut the post down but it seems like I pretty much got it first time. With one click up on the rear it seems to be zeroed in nicely for 100 yards. I ran out of ammo before I could tell for sure. Bottom linewas that it wasn't all that hard to make a new post from the nail. A hand drill motor could be used just as easily.

That was my plan too. If I tapped the post in too far, I could use the rear sight to correct. I had planned to make it adjustable like lejarretnoir did but I couldn't get a good hole drilled with my dremel drill press. I would like to see a pic of Points rivet fix. It sounds like it works.
All said, I think this thread and a couple of others posted recently cover the front sight dilemma quite thoroughly.
Best wishes for the New Year to all.
 
i was bored so i cut the cap off of a thumbtack and then and then very carefully glued it on the front part of the sight "blade" with tweezers and held it there for 15 seconds so it set, its actually quite straight. i am going to the range tomorow morning so i will post and see if it the recoil shakes it off or not, i postioned the pointy part pointing up
 
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