Mosin Nagant.. Accuracy help?

Shifty11

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Any help on improving the Mosin? Heard they are accurate for what they are but I can't hit a Figure 11 with one without aiming off over 3/4 to 1.5 of a foot low and to the left (and even then I'm hitting above the right shoulder) I checked out the front sight post and it's lined up with the mark on the barrel, (tried adjusting it a a VERY little bit) and I can hit a torso out to like 200m with my crappy eyes and irons on my Enfield but can't hit the side of a barn with my Mosin.. Don't want to put some crazy stock on it, want to keep it looking as normal as possible but I'd like to be able to hit something. Any tips or ideas? I'm going away for 3-4 weeks so won't be able to reply or test it until I get back but if you folks give me a million suggestions I'll try almost everything to get it shooting good. (Bore is darker but it's VERY visible.)

Almost considering some sort of rail and throwing a cheap scope on it but want to avoid that (love the old looks of old guns, want to avoid a new scope)

Thanks in Advance to everyone.
 
Mine have all shot no worse than 2" groups at 100 yards benched...even the old Czarist hexes........with a couple at .75" Could be a bent or worn barrel/perhaps bedding? Does a bullet head enter the muzzle to the brass neck if you poke it? If so,part it out and get one with a nice bright barrel instead of dumping a pile of money into it.Harold
 
Rear sight with 3 set on it and bayo attached, should give you 4 hits on 15x15 cm circle at 100 meters distance. With standard 147gr ball ammo. 3 means that at distance from 100 to 300 meters soldier would not have to adjust his sight. Battlefield Zero.
Crown of the barrel is very important as if its worn, then rifle will not be accurate. Most mosin stocks have lots of freeplay in the area of front barrel band, installing cork or similar material around barrel and tightening the fit in the front band will reduce barrel lash and should increase accuracy.
If you going to shoot without bayo, then you would have to file or raise front sight and move it accordingly with bullet impacts, witness marks in the sight won't play any role at that point
hope this helps.
g76
 
I've had more than one that required serious re-zeroing and I suspect they may have been zeroed for use with bayonet originally and even at refurb. For example, have a '27 referred upgraded Dragoon that shot one foot low and to the left as received and with registry marks on the sight lined up. After zeroing this rifle, which has only fair bore, but good stock fit, I've seen 1.5 inch 5 shot gross out of it shooting over a sandbag. On a lead-sled it has put 3 shots in 0.5 inch. On Gunboards forum, which is the best source of info on Mosins, there are many who claim MOA precision with handholds and top condition rifles as well as some who use PU Snipers in long range sniper type competition. Mosins are certainly as good as any WW1-WW2 bolt guns that were actually used in mucho combat.

milsurpo
 
If it hits all over the place, check the crown. If its reasonable groups that shoot high, add a piece of wire insulation or heat shrink onto the front sight to bring it up a millimeter. A mosin shoots high without the bayonet affixed.
 
The Mosin was always zeroed with the bayonet attached, because in Imperial Russian/Soviet doctrine, the bayonet was always to be fixed on the rifle. The Czarist/Red Army didn't even issue bayonet scabbards to its troops.

The OP's problem sounds like he's shooting it without the bayonet attached. Mine does just about the same thing without the bayonet on.
 
The Mosin was always zeroed with the bayonet attached, because in Imperial Russian/Soviet doctrine, the bayonet was always to be fixed on the rifle. The Czarist/Red Army didn't even issue bayonet scabbards to its troops.

The OP's problem sounds like he's shooting it without the bayonet attached. Mine does just about the same thing without the bayonet on.


Yup. A raise front sight and an adjustment to the horizontal will fix that
 
Today I took out an ex sniper I bought a few weeks ago off the EE. It is counterbored a good inch and a half and I've shimmed the stock so it is tight. After a bit of sighting in she grouped very well with Bulgarian surplus. Open sights at 100yds.
To be accurate a Mosin must have a good crown, a good bore, and a tight fitting stock. I like ex snipers because they often still have the longer front sight post as snipers were not meant to have bayonets. I also like counter bored guns for accuracy. Stocks can be shimmed tight, lots of info on the net about it.

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The Mosin was always zeroed with the bayonet attached, because in Imperial Russian/Soviet doctrine, the bayonet was always to be fixed on the rifle. The Czarist/Red Army didn't even issue bayonet scabbards to its troops.

Unless it's a Dragoon:



1931 Tula ex-Dragoon shoots point of aim without bayonet. You can see the area on the bottom of the rear sight adjuster where material was removed. Who did it? I don't know.
 
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I borrowed a little accuracy trick from the Finn rifles I have.

They used to add shims between the upper fore end cover tips and the barrel. I have tried this on a couple of M91 and M91/30 rifles and in most cases, as long as the bores are VG they definitely help to tighten groups.
 
Adding a bayonet helped. Was able to hit a torso gong at 150. So I'm happy, still going to work on making it better obviously. So shim the hand guards and might try sanding down the stock on the inside to make sure it's not rubbing on the barrel. Any way to make it so I don't need too have a bayonet on? Gun is long enough without it lol
 
Lots of things you can do to a mosin. But make sure there is no slop on the action when tightened down.

To easily lengthen the front sight use an electrical crimp connector. The blue ones are about the right size to slide over your front sight. Trim it down and make a small post with the material. I had some that are a pin worked really well. And shim your barrel, that helped to.

I used some rtv to secure the connector on the front sight and painted it black.
 
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