Mounting a scope with the reticle dead level??
- Thread starter Silverado
- Start date
skeetgunner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Burlington
I use a rifle vise and a set of bubble levels on the flast of the action. That works best for me.
You can also sand bag the rifle and use a couple of strips of duct-tape to hold it in place. Have had some success with placing the stock in a padded bench vise, but find this awkward.
You can also sand bag the rifle and use a couple of strips of duct-tape to hold it in place. Have had some success with placing the stock in a padded bench vise, but find this awkward.
I guess this is how you'd use it...
http://www.chuckhawks.com/segway_reticle_leveler.htm
http://www.chuckhawks.com/segway_reticle_leveler.htm
I tried every leveling device I could find and eventually I found the best way to do it is by experience and a few basic aids. When I first mount the scope I tighten the rings only snug enough to keep the scope from turning on it's own but loose enough that I can turn it by hand. I look at a distant level reference point (door or window to get my first reference). I then place the muzzle on the floor , turn down the magnification to get the largest exit pupil and align it with the rectangular marks on the lino on the floor. By chance we had lino installed that had big squares on it and I use this as a giant levelling device like the Reticle Leveler shown previously. By having a long horinzontal and vertical axis tto level with it makes the leveing process easier and faster. I then point the rifle/scope at the distant leveling point and try to convince myself that it's leaning right or left and if it appears to be the same on both sides then I tighten everything down. One last check with close and far away reference and I'm done. When were mounting this for customers I let the customer look through the scope to verify alignment and eye relief and in about 95 % of the time they agree with what we've done. Some require minor adjustment and very seldom do we get a customer who wan't it moved very far to the right or left. An important thing to remember is to hold the firearm as level as possible or it will never be right. Phil.
Some of the small torpedo levels have magnets that help with the balancing part.
It's good to check you natural shooting position as well because the stock tucked into your shoulder might not be perfectly level....
It's good to check you natural shooting position as well because the stock tucked into your shoulder might not be perfectly level....
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I use a magnetic torpedo level and my plumb bob. Like Phil said, tighten the rings just enough so that the tube is held in place, but still able to be turned, if necessary, without causing damage to the finish. Once I've got the reticle level with the rifle, I'll check it against more distant geometric shapes like doors & window frames. Then add a little blue loctite and carefully tighten all the screws, making sure the tube doesn't move & that equal torque is applied to all screws.
The only down side to using a level on the scope body itself is that some scopes (even some high end ones) don't have the reticle mounted square to the body of the scope. Check this first as it can be very frustrating if you go through all that work and then look through the scope and the reticle is obviously not level but the body is square to the gun. Phil.
