Mounting bottom rail or AFG directly to M305 synthetic stock

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Captain Smoof

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I’m sure it’s been done.

But I’m, at best, reasonably handy with such things.

I was hoping someone might have some experience with mounting a small rail section to the bottom of the factory synthetic stock, to which an AFG could be mounted.

Alternatively, do you think an MLOK AFG could be mounted directly? I realize it would take a bit of Dremel work.

Any insight or instruction would be most helpful!

Thanks!
MMS
 
I would buy an MOE rail and mount an AFG or XTM hand stop kit to it. This would require minimal work & potential damage to the stock.

Why an MOE and not an M-lok rail?
- Magpul has moved on to the m-lok system and so has the shooting community. As a result the MOE rails you will find in stock at any dealer are often under $10
- The MOE rails have a flat underside, unlike an M-lok rail
- The MOE rails come with a much larger and flatter nut, which is more suitable for retaining the rail in plastic

You may need to use longer bolts depending on the stock thickness...I want to say they are #10-24 bolts.
 
Jäger said:
I would buy an MOE rail and mount an AFG or XTM hand stop kit to it. This would require minimal work & potential damage to the stock.

Why an MOE and not an M-lok rail?
- Magpul has moved on to the m-lok system and so has the shooting community. As a result the MOE rails you will find in stock at any dealer are often under $10
- The MOE rails have a flat underside, unlike an M-lok rail
- The MOE rails come with a much larger and flatter nut, which is more suitable for retaining the rail in plastic

You may need to use longer bolts depending on the stock thickness...I want to say they are #10-24 bolts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response!

Do you think it's just a matter of drilling and securing bolts? Or would I have to dremel out some material on the inside in which the flat nuts would sit?

Any reason the rail couldn't be drilled with tapped screws and some kind of bonding agent? I understand this is more permanent, but I don't see why I'd take it off and synthetic stocks are not hard to come by.
 
Personally I would just drill a hole and torque. Due to the curved shape of the underside of the stock, the nut will be unable to turn as you tighten the bolt down. I would use loctite for sure, but anything more is probably more than you need. It's your gun, and you're right, a replacement stock is cheap and easy to come by so why not get adventurous with your project.
 
When i was customizing stocks for cgn'ers here I attached rails to many plastic and usgi fiberlass stocks.
I use the drill and tap for the screw you are going to use so the screws thread into the plastic. Then I use a toothed lock washer and nut. Instead of loctite, I use 2 part marine epoxy paste but locktite will work too. Threading the plastic just gives more support for long term and so the screws don't wiggle under recoil.
 
45ACPKING said:
When i was customizing stocks for cgn'ers here I attached rails to many plastic and usgi fiberlass stocks.
I use the drill and tap for the screw you are going to use so the screws thread into the plastic. Then I use a toothed lock washer and nut. Instead of loctite, I use 2 part marine epoxy paste but locktite will work too. Threading the plastic just gives more support for long term and so the screws don't wiggle under recoil.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

There was generally enough clearance between the nuts and the receiver? Or did you have to remove some material from the inside?
 
In most cases the nut and lock washer height did not interfere except toward the gas system. I just use a countersink bit to create a recess a very small amount at a time untill there is clearance.
The plastic springfield and norinco stocks have quite a bit of room in the forstock though so as long as the fasteners are trimmed or purchased in appropriate size/length, should be good.
 
45ACPKING said:
In most cases the nut and lock washer height did not interfere except toward the gas system. I just use a countersink bit to create a recess a very small amount at a time untill there is clearance.
The plastic springfield and norinco stocks have quite a bit of room in the forstock though so as long as the fasteners are trimmed or purchased in appropriate size/length, should be good.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Really good info - much appreciated!
 
I took a a look inside the stock and you're right - lots of room. I think I'll need 1/4" screws instead, but I'll wait for the rail section to arrive first.

I'll post again when I complete the project.
 
Captain Smoof said:
I took a a look inside the stock and you're right - lots of room. I think I'll need 1/4" screws instead, but I'll wait for the rail section to arrive first.

I'll post again when I complete the project.
Click to expand...

ya for the norinco plastic stocks and the wooden stocks I use 1/4 x 20 allen key button heads from the inside of the stock as well. Depends on the rail I had in hand. I would get dlask to make me runs of rail pre drilled, tapped and anodized. 5 holes spaced along a 12" rail for the bottom fastened with the button heads. Other rails I used were drilled and countersunk for taper head screws and for those I used the nut and lock washer on the inside and taper head allens in 10x28 (or was it 32....) ..... you get the idea. I preferred the taper head screw method for the usgi glass stocks.
anyhow, hope your project works out.
 
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