Mounting Scope on 10/22 Target

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bc

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I bought an elite 3200, variable 5X15X40 to mount on Ruger 10/22 Target model. I'm a bit unhappy with how it is mounted as I had Wholesale Sports do it when I bought package. The up/down adjustment is almost screwed out and the rings don't fit great. Just curious what type of rail are people using in the Ruger 10/22 and what type of rings? I'm after something bullet proof. Don't want to fix this more than once more.

PLUS Another 10/22 question? On last round is the action supposed to stay open. Mine closes and I run the risk of pulling trigger on empty chamber.
 
I am not too sure what rings I have on but I mounted my Bushnell 4200 4-16X40 on a Power Custom Base ordered from www.hawktecharms.com

With a factory rifle there is no last shot bolt hold open. However you can purchase an aftermarket product that will do this.

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You can dry fire a stock 10/22 without damage, Ruger even recommends it to get familiar with the lighter trigger of the "target model". It's on the same page as the the don't shoot stingers out of a "T".
 
Running out of adjustment vertically throws a red flag up that there may be an bedding issue. If I read correctly you are running out of up and your still hiting low, if that is the case that sounds like barrel droop.
 
Couple of comments

1. No, the bolt is not supposed to say open.

2. Running out of vertical adjustment on scopes with the 10/22 is a very common problem. I ran out of vertical adjustment with my 3200 5-15 (great scope buy the way). Here are some things that can cause it.

(a) If you glass bedded the rifle and free floated the barrel, there may not be enough support for the reciever to hold the action. To solve this try putting a preasure pad, either at the end of your glass bed in the forend, or at the very end of the forend. Make sure that your preasure pad creates an upward preasure on the barrel. If it doesn't it will preatty much be useless.

(b) Reciever "hump" can also be a very common problem on the 10/22's. If you take a ruler, or somehting other that is strech and put it over the 10/22 reciever without the scope mount on and put it up to the light you will probably see a gap of light in the middle of the reciever. What this does is it sort of elevates the front of the scope (which will make it shoot lower). Unfortunately there is not to much you can do about this unless you are willing to take out a file (but nobody wants to do that ;)

(c) Another very common problem with the 10/22 is barrel droop. This is caused by over-tightening the action screws. In all honesty I forget what the correction is for this.

All in all the one I would try would be step numer (a). THis is what I did with my 10/22. The vertical elevation problem was solved and it shoots great ;) :D

3. I use factory scope base with both the 11mm rail and the Weaver rail on it.

4. The burris signature rings are very good. You can buy additional offsets for them which is great if you are having problems running out of windage or elevation adjustments. The inserts are very good for the scope, and you don't have to lap them so that is always a good thing.

Hope this helps ;)
Jordan
 
With my 10/22T I had bedded the barrel a couple of inches beyond the receiver, and pillared the takedown screw to attempt to free float the barrel. I have the Power Custom rail too with Leupold medium height rings and had a similar problem with my scope running out of vertical adjustment. The scope is a Mueller APV 4.5-14x40 AO.

Solved it by bedding the forend of the stock. Shot dime sized holes or less at 25 yds. after that.

You can also try a tuner. I believe there's one call a Bug Hole Tuner that allows minute adjustment at the forend with an allen key.
 
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