MP15 sport2 front gas block removal....

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rob350

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Its clamped pretty solid on my work bench. Wood is well squished into place.
Mini sledge, over sized punch.
I measured the pins, orientated holding it with the firing controls the right side is smaller, left side is bigger (.012 on the right vs .014 on the left)
Hammering it from the right side to the left side. (i have read the mp15 is backwards compared to most)

I think it initially may have moved slightly but cant get either pin flush.
Both ends of both pins seem less like a roll pin and more like a rod that is possibly slightly mushroomed on each side. Seems like a solid rod.

Whats next grind the heads off?

Its a MP 15 sport 2 from the mp15 flood 2 or 3 years ago.
Removing to install low profile gas block, swap barrel nut, etc.



Hopefully that picture worked.
 
Try resting the block on the wood bench and hammer it with a larger punch until they are flush, then use a smaller punch to finish. I did mine a while back and it took some good hits to get going.
 
I got mine off by "cupping" the end of the punch first. I did this by hammering the sides of it while rolling it on the flat part of the vise. Then just some good solid whacks on the pins while being well supported. Also I just cut off the sight and ground it down to reuse it with a freefloat. I feel this is less likely to come loose etc. than a setscrew version (and free :) )
Also try to have the wood more directly under the opposite side of the pin, it must be solid under it when you hit it
 
islandhunter said:
I got mine off by "cupping" the end of the punch first. I did this by hammering the sides of it while rolling it on the flat part of the vise. Then just some good solid whacks on the pins while being well supported. Also I just cut off the sight and ground it down to reuse it with a freefloat. I feel this is less likely to come loose etc. than a setscrew version (and free :) )
Also try to have the wood more directly under the opposite side of the pin, it must be solid under it when you hit it
Click to expand...

Well got the rearward one out. Ran out of time for the front one.
Your right, more support right under it. Damn it's in tight.

Hmm never thought about cutting it down and reusing. How does a pin style gas block ensure its level on the gas port, the pins and the notch on the bottom of the barrel?
 
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Got it off!!!!!!!! Few damaged punches...
Now I see what they mean about it's the strongest gas block set up.

Thinking about cutting it down, and reusing. Assuming I can get it punched back together...
 
It helps if you know what your doing and the science behind it. Wood absorbs the kinetic energy from the hammers blow. Your clamping contraption was actually making things more difficult. You need to strike the pins on the strongest part of your work bench. I have a metal cross bar under my bench and that’s where I strike gas block pins. No need for clamps just brace the front sight gas block with a block of steel and prop the back of the upper up on either a book or what I use is my hammer block. I’ve hammered out many. Quite possibly 50 or more. The only time I had a hard time was my first few when I didn’t know what I was doing. Now no pins take me more than a few minutes to knock out and I get many guys who bring me their guns saying “it’s impossible!” And then I have them out in three to five minutes. Colt 6920 are the worst to get the pins out but still only takes using a slightly larger hammer to get them to go.
 
Mumbles Marble Mouth said:
It helps if you know what your doing and the science behind it. Wood absorbs the kinetic energy from the hammers blow. Your clamping contraption was actually making things more difficult. You need to strike the pins on the strongest part of your work bench. I have a metal cross bar under my bench and that’s where I strike gas block pins. No need for clamps just brace the front sight gas block with a block of steel and prop the back of the upper up on either a book or what I use is my hammer block. I’ve hammered out many. Quite possibly 50 or more. The only time I had a hard time was my first few when I didn’t know what I was doing. Now no pins take me more than a few minutes to knock out and I get many guys who bring me their guns saying “it’s impossible!” And then I have them out in three to five minutes. Colt 6920 are the worst to get the pins out but still only takes using a slightly larger hammer to get them to go.
Click to expand...

This.

I don't know how many times I've heard of people not being able to get Norinico pins out.......they give me the upper and it takes me longer to get the tools ready than it does to knock the pins out.

The easiest pins I've ever removed were Colt Canada fwiw.

The funniest was the guy who said he spent 3 days trying to knock his pins out and destroyed 3 punches. I asked him if he was hitting the small end..........he had the blank look in his eyes: "there's a small end?!" ;)
 
*MALICE* said:
This.

I don't know how many times I've heard of people not being able to get Norinico pins out.......they give me the upper and it takes me longer to get the tools ready than it does to knock the pins out.

The easiest pins I've ever removed were Colt Canada fwiw.

The funniest was the guy who said he spent 3 days trying to knock his pins out and destroyed 3 punches. I asked him if he was hitting the small end..........he had the blank look in his eyes: "there's a small end?!" ;)
Click to expand...

You can hear it too when you struck the pin properly. Has a completely different sound to it than a poor hit.
 
I had a bugger of a time with my FSB pins. I ended up using a Springtools Hamerless Nail Set from Princess Auto. It's a lot easier then trying to hold a punch and a 3lbs sledge.

Can't say if it's the best method or not, but it worked for me.
 
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