Good day CGN I have a request for 411 and knowledge I have recently purchased a VG6 muzzle brake and was curious if I should DIY or take it to a gunsmith? If I choose to DIY, what would be a better product to use shims/crush. Thanking you in advance for your time and consideration.
Muzzle brake install: shim/crush,. DIY/GUNSMITH
- Thread starter 1ABNDT
- Start date
I used the AAC shim kit from TNA when I installed my Precision Armament M4-72. The PA shim kit was super expensive at CTCSupplies, almost triple the price of the AAC shims from TNA, so I used the cheaper AAC kit. The AAC shims have a smaller outside diameter than the PA kit so they are less noticeable. I also painted the outside of the shims black with a touch up paint pen before final torquing down.
I have an o-ring kit that looks something like the pic below (for general "fixin' and seelin' stuff that needs fixin' and seelin'" purposes).
For both my AR and my 858 (not all my 858 brakes have the detent cutout to lock with the spring loaded piece of metal under the sight), I just grab the smallest rubber o-ring I can stretch over the threads, and then roll it back to the wider lip of the barrel. When I screw in a brake, I make sure that it gets 1 full turn after it makes contact with the rubber o-ring, then clock it as appropriate.
Never had a brake work loose using this method, and the rubber o-rings are cheap as chips.
Over time, the rubber ring will dry out and somewhat weld itself to the brake/barrel thread, but this isn't a big issue. Kind of helps hold things in place, actually. And then when you crank the brake off, the rubber will crumble and fall away.
For both my AR and my 858 (not all my 858 brakes have the detent cutout to lock with the spring loaded piece of metal under the sight), I just grab the smallest rubber o-ring I can stretch over the threads, and then roll it back to the wider lip of the barrel. When I screw in a brake, I make sure that it gets 1 full turn after it makes contact with the rubber o-ring, then clock it as appropriate.
Never had a brake work loose using this method, and the rubber o-rings are cheap as chips.
Over time, the rubber ring will dry out and somewhat weld itself to the brake/barrel thread, but this isn't a big issue. Kind of helps hold things in place, actually. And then when you crank the brake off, the rubber will crumble and fall away.
Crush washers are perfectly fine but 1 thing to keep in mind is that if you have to go approximately a full turn or sometimes a bit more the crush washer "can" flatten to the point where it will not come off past the threads and will need cut off if you want to remove it. Seldom does one need turned this far but depending on where the threads on the barrel and brake align it is possible. I've had to cut a couple off that were flattened too much.
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
If you take it to a reputable smith, they can time it properly so that a shim, crush washer or Jam nut is not required....
John
John
TY everyone for your suggestions after taking everything into consideration I am going to my gunsmith Tactical Ordnance, for the same price as a shim kit I will be able to watch and learn how it's done. And as a newbie having peace of mind that I am not going to blow myself up or my firearm is always reassuring and will allow me to focus on more important things.
