muzzle brake

elimsprint

elimsprint

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Hi All,
I don't know if this should be here or not. I posted also in the Sporting arms section.

I'm looking for a gunsmith up here who can do a milled internal muzzle brake on a fluted TC Pro Hunter barrel. Mike Bellm does them down south but it looks to be close to impossible to get a barrel from here to there and back without a lot of hassle and expence What the h**l ever happened to free trade??? Here's a link to what I mean, http:/ /www.bellmtcs.com/store /index.php?cid=151,
Thanks for any help you can give me,
Kim
 
I used to do similar brakes but stopped doing them because of the difficulty and expense and less performance over a screwed on brake. Small diameter brakes do not "brake" as well a slightly larger brakes and are usually even louder.

I much prefer this brake and it can be installed on very small barrels.
thin%20barrel%20brake%202.jpg
 
Hi Dennis,
I've looked at that one but..... The barrel in question is .805 at the muzzle with a 7mm bore. I would think enough meat to make it work. It is also fluted to within .51 of the end so even cutting the threading would probably interfere with the fluting. It is a 28" barrel already and I really don't want to make it longer. I would use one of those or something like it (I really like the ATRS brake) if the barrel could be cut down so it would stay the same length but then you are into the fluting and what would that do to the barrel harmonics? Any suggestions are always welcome.
Kim
P8290013a.jpg
 
It would just look a bit weird with a brake into the fluting... I don't think it would harm accuracy...
 
If you want to do this; I would cut the piece in your photo (2.750" long) and fabricated a brake from it, with straight rows of holes, you can line up the flutes at installation.
 
Al Flipo said:
If you want to do this; I would cut the piece in your photo (2.750" long) and fabricated a brake from it, with straight rows of holes, you can line up the flutes at installation.
Click to expand...

It would be easier to machine it where it is than to cut it off and reinstall...
 
.500" is enough thread for a regular brake. The brake can be tapered in as guntech shows, the taper beginning very near where the fluting stops. The barrel would get longer but a little bit more wont kill you. If I were you, I'd be asking guntech if he has time to do it for you. Dlask makes this fairly short brake full diameter as well. https://www.dlaskarms.com//popup_image.php?pID=105&osCsid=e635639a627a69d7e376d194cb90d4c3
 
elimsprint said:
So on that diameter barrel you could do a "milled in" type brake? Or would you still recommend the screw on type?
Kim
Click to expand...

I prefer threaded brakes as it is so much easier to clean the barrel without filling the brake up with crap and worrying about getting it all out. If there is residue left in a brake it can get into the muzzle and when fired damage will result.. that is a reason why I never liked Magna Porting... I saw all sorts of damaged barrels caused by firing with dust/debris in the barrel from the ports... the crown can also be 'touched up/freshened' easily when the brake is removable.

A brake like the top brake in the following picture could be installed. The fluting however would end square at the brake.

3%20brakes%20profile.jpg
 
Al Flipo said:
It would be a lot easier, but I'm thinking about incorporate an expansion chamber in the brake..
Click to expand...

Yes... it is still easier to do it without cutting it off...

Cutting the barrel off and then threading the muzzle and internal threading and fitting the cut off piece is a problem within itself.

But the problem is... The outside diameter of the cut off piece where it will butt up against the barrel, will be smaller than the outside diameter of the barrel... due to the taper of the barrel...

It is not the way to do it...
 
Al Flipo said:
It would be a lot easier, but I'm thinking about incorporate an expansion chamber in the brake..
Click to expand...

It is not a big problem to mill an integral brake with an expansion chamber. I have seen several done by Bevan King, gill type, and they realy work.

Dennis knows what he is posting about, and could do the job quite satisfactorily.

Ted
 
guntech said:
Yes... it is still easier to do it without cutting it off...Cutting the barrel off and then threading the muzzle and internal threading and fitting the cut off piece is a problem within itself. But the problem is... The outside diameter of the cut off piece where it will butt up against the barrel, will be smaller than the outside diameter of the barrel... due to the taper of the barrel...It is not the way to do it...
Click to expand...

"Cutting the barrel off and then threading the muzzle and internal threading and fitting the cut off piece is a problem within itself."

Why would that be a problem? On a barrel that size (.815") I usually cut a 9/16-NF thread and use the tap drill in the brake for the expansion chamber.
There is no way you can use a boring bar in a 7-mm bore on the end of the barrel to create a decent expansion chamber.
And as far as the taper of the barrel is concerned, it looks fairly straight to me and I don't foresee any problems there.
 
Dennis,
That is some clean install on the top one for sure. You don't think cutting into the flutes is going to affect accuracy?
I measure the barrel at .805 for the last 8-10" at least.
Al Flipo, so what you are saying is cut 2.75" off of the barrel. Back bore that piece with a 33/64 drill, then tap 9/16" NFx1/2". Cut and thread the barrel 9/16NFx1/2" and then face the front piece till the flutes realign. Will that realignment be repeatable if I remove the brake or will it be a one shot deal threadlocked in place? I don't really care as I was going for a non-removeable brake anyways but I thought I would ask. I take it you do this kind of work?
Kim
 
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