How do you guys get rid of the welds on the bottom of the muzzle brakes? i saw on a video on here i think where they just break off when turning them or break the muzzle brake. What have you guys done when changing your muzzle brakes?
muzzle brake
- Thread starter olansky
- Start date
I took some time with a steel punch and a hammer and smacked it off. My first one had two little spotwelds on the bottom. The second one I got lucky and there was no weld.
Just make sure you back off the nut before you start pounding. Once the brake was off I ground down the welds with a dremmel.
Just make sure you back off the nut before you start pounding. Once the brake was off I ground down the welds with a dremmel.
The welds were pretty shallow on mine and they let loose after some pounding with a hammer & punch on flash suppressor. I cleaned up the raised metal with a file and reinstalled the suppressor. The suppressor saw little damage from the process.
- Location
- Burlington On
I actually forgot there were welds on the flash hider. Smacked it a few times with a punch at first and then wrapped a rag around the barrel, took a pair of curved jaw vise grips just barely touching the barrel and one good smack took it off. Looking at it after I would be ashamed to say it was any weld I did. Barely on at all.
You could carefully thin the welds with a drill, file or Dremel.
You could carefully thin the welds with a drill, file or Dremel.
strip rifle,put barrel it in a soft jaw vice, suport the end of barrel, use a BFH and a good size punch againt the bayo lug, or where it should be. give it a few serious smacks and off she will come. Get serious with her tho, no tappity tap taps, pound on'er like a $2 whore and it will pop right off.
I didn't have luck with the Hider Removal 
I put my welds under a drill press with a bit that was 7/8ths the size of the weld, but only let the tip of the bit get all the way through. Then I took a dremil and ground out (tiny grinder stone bit) the part of the weld left behind towards the receiver, about a 60 degree arc. I had hoped that the remaining weld would be angled enough to allow the hider to slide up and over it. I used a hammer and wood to smack it off the barrel.
REMEMBER to back off the castle nut as you go!!!
When I took mine off one weld was pretty light and I had no problem.
The other weld was DAMN strong and split a chunk out of the hider the size of a dime... AND put a crack through it bad enough I knew the hider was garbage.
The welded hider is the only thing I dispise/dislike/hate about the Norc M305.
I put my welds under a drill press with a bit that was 7/8ths the size of the weld, but only let the tip of the bit get all the way through. Then I took a dremil and ground out (tiny grinder stone bit) the part of the weld left behind towards the receiver, about a 60 degree arc. I had hoped that the remaining weld would be angled enough to allow the hider to slide up and over it. I used a hammer and wood to smack it off the barrel.
REMEMBER to back off the castle nut as you go!!!
When I took mine off one weld was pretty light and I had no problem.
The other weld was DAMN strong and split a chunk out of the hider the size of a dime... AND put a crack through it bad enough I knew the hider was garbage.
The welded hider is the only thing I dispise/dislike/hate about the Norc M305.
- Location
- The Hammer, ON
smack the **** out of it with a punch and hammer...if its still stubborn, blast it for a bit with a heat gun - that worked for me
