Muzzle Breaks

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Runt

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Hello every one
So I would like to put a muzzle break on my Rem. 700 chambered in .300 Win. Mag. Before you start posting “you don’t need a muzzle break on a .300 Win. Mag.” blah blah blah blah blah. I will say “ya I agree”. But the reason I want one is I just added an Accuracy International Chassis System to this rifle. Now it recoils almost straight back. I think if I added a muzzle break I could watch the bullet hit the targets through my scope. So far I’m in muzzle break deliria…..there are so many types and designs. I’m leaning towards a Near Sako style break (I like buying Canadian & Richards a good guy) or the other extreme is a Badger Ordnance “Thruster Tactical Compensator”. However there are so many other great designs out there. I shoot this rifle primarily in the prone position so would prefer some thing that doesn’t kick up to much dirt (i.e. should be side ported). Also beside the change of bullet impact what’s the main disadvantage of a removable break. I like the idea of being able to take off the break if I’m at the range. For those ear plug only type shooters. I assume the breaks I have seen that have a Torex bolt with clamp style opening are threaded and screwed on with the clamp reducing the chance of the break coming lose. To me this seems like the best of both worlds. Any pictures of your own breaks and how you feel they help your shooting are appreciated.
 
I have a .300 win mag custom rifle that tips the scale at over 17 pounds.I definatly do not need the break but I still chose to have one installed.
It is nice when you can see the hole bullet hit the target.
It is a definate plus when you are shooting prone.
I went with a PGW tactical break.It is very effective and I would say it must reduce recoil by about 60%.
As far as removable breaks are concerned I aked the same question and was told to stay away from them unless you have no other option because they may tend to change your point of impact when they are removed vs. installed.You usually find removable breaks on sniper rifles that need the option of being able to install a sound suppresor.
 
Here are some photos of the PGW break as it was very nicely blended into the barrel by the gunsmith who built the rifle.
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Brakes do what they are designed to do and that is reduce recoil and shooter fatigue. I use brakes on most of my rifles and shoot with plugs/muffs. They are noisy but allow me to spot my own shots at LR.

The best brakes will be wide and have as large a vent(s) as possible. Size is a better indicator of effective then price.

The most effective designs will also vent backwards like a AR50 monster brake. The JP clamshell is another example of really big AND effective brake.

I find the gill style to be more effective then the single chamber KDF style. Plus the side facing vents reduce dust kick up. I also like vents holes on the top and size these to keep the rifle from bouncing.

Here is the least expensive but extremely effective brake. Micaluk AR15 style, just open to 30cal.


Effective but not as good KDF style. Make the holes as big as possible.


Another version of the gill style.


Then just a really big vent. Very effective too.


When you remove a brake, any brake, there is always a chance of POI and load changes.

Jerry
 
i was gonna recomend the JP style Brake but mystic already has. LOL
it has been given alot of great reviews and seems like it would be effective at reducing recoil with little to no dust kick up.
 
Holland makes a nice brake. No bottom ports - over sides and top...
 
Wow....nice response gents. Excellent pic’s Mystic & Pete1. Pete1 that looks like a nice break....do you remember what they go for? I love how you can’t even tell that the barrel wasn’t built with the break…..seamless. Who did that work for you Pete1? ### do you sell those Holland breaks? For sure a excellent design. If I decide to go with a permanent style break. I think I like the Holland design the most so far. A few designs mentioned I had never seen before. Thanks a lot for the posts they so far have been very helpful.
 
Whatever brake you go for, it is an advantage to have it threaded on... that way you can remove it for easier cleaning of the barrel and for freshening of the crown.

I believe larger diameter brakes are more effective than slim brakes.

All create noise problems for anyone beside you and can cause reflective bounce back to the shooter as well.

All brakes reduce recoil considerably.

Because brakes are reducing recoil caused by the gas exiting the barrel, they are more effective on "necked down magnums" than on straight cases like a .458 Winchester.
 
A quick question

Been reading about brakes. What is the approximate cost range for a brake on a savage stainless heavy barrel and where would one get the work done. I'm in the prairies.

Thanks
 
I used to be a brake hater. To tell you the truth I'm still not sure that I would go with one still. But while I was out on vacation I shot a buddy's SiG sniper rifle in 300 WM. It's got an interesting brake on it with four slots all angled forward (meaning if you're pointing the rifle to the left the slots look like //// ). We shot it a bit at a half mile to get some come ups and I was blown away. The recoil was less than my Savage LE2B in 308. I didn't weigh the rifle but including the Barris bipod and Bushnell 3200 10x I'd have to say it was in the neighbourhood of 10-12 lbs (not as heavy as my Savage either). We were testign some loads at 200 with 168 Sierra BTHP. They didn't shoot worth a damn there so we decided to see if we could hit the buffalo silhouette we have at a half mile. When the dust settled and we got dialled in we put three shots in about 5". The rifle was a pure joy to shoot off the bench and I think that's a direct result of the McMillan stock and the brake.
 
Brakes range from $50 to $250+. Install ranges from $50 to 150+. The Micaluk brake near the barrel is about 0.800" so should fit pretty close to the savage heavy barrel contour. These are very reasonable in price if you can find them ($65 to 75 give or take).

Guntech can mill you one similar. Talk to him about his pricing. His install pricing is very fair.

Jerry
 
I would put one on any harder recioling rifle. The only rifle I don't have a brake on is my .300 WBY because it would ruin the gun, everything else gets a brake. They are very beneficial at the range and in practice situations but if the rifle is only a hunter and sees very few round per year I wouldn't bother. Here is the Near that I use on my TRG 42 in .338 Lapua:

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Muzzle Break which is best?

There is only one answer to this question, JP Enterprises, almost 95% effective - loud but effective, it looks like the break installed on a howitzer. If you want to clear space around you on the bench, it's the only way to go!!
 
The Near TRG style break is probably one of my favorite looking breaks and according to many who own it is quite effective. Unfortunantly I can't seem to locate one to buy....any one know where you can get a Near Break ?
 
Runt said:
The Near TRG style break is probably one of my favorite looking breaks and according to many who own it is quite effective. Unfortunantly I can't seem to locate one to buy....any one know where you can get a Near Break ?
Click to expand...


It is not a Near but JWK just posted a photo of his " New Toy" in this forum, the brake on it looks pretty nice.
KK
 
This is the brake knockknock is talking about.Just found out how to post pic,Getting carried away.LOL
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