My Baikal Coach Gun won't open fully

TrollGRG

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Lacombe, AB
From what I have seen, when you break the barrel to eject/extract the rounds the action should open enough for the shells to clear the rest of the gun.
Mine only opens part of the way. I can get it to open fully by forcing the barrels down with my off hand but once I do I have to move the leaver to the left and hold it there for the barrels to stay in that wide open posture.



How do I correct this? I am no gun plumber but I am not totally inept when it comes to breaking things ;o)

Thanks for ideas and insights and incites

Gerry
 
I have found that the cheaply made shotguns (Ricol, Baikal, etc) have really really rough finishes on their internals. I took my Ricol O/U apart two days ago because it was like pumping a high powered air gun to get barrels open enough to #### the hammers and activate the ejectors. To remedy the problem, I removed the butt stock and disassembled the shotgun down to its lowest components. As I slowly reassembled the gun, I would stop at any point where parts were binding and fixed the issue by removing flash and burrs with a file and polishing the part to ensure a smooth movement. My shotgun was so bad the hammer guide rods were bent on the right hammer so much that it wouldn't travel through the receiver without binding heavily. I have since re-assembled my shotgun and it now functions very smoothly but it still requires a bit of force to open the shotgun which I think will require more work.

If you have the right tools (i.e. Socket Set Metric as your shotgun is likely Russian/Turkish), fine diamond file, dremel with polishing mop/head and a small steel punch set. You could easily take your gun apart and fix the issues. The key is to go slowly and constantly check fit. You don't want to be in there go hogwild removing lots of metal. The areas that you don't want to fool with if you are not qualified are the sear/hammer contact point don't touch this if you haven't done any gunsmithing before - you will be able to identify this because you can still #### the action with the stock removed and you can see where the hammer is hooked on to the sear. All you want to do is remove excess flash and to polish up the contact points at pivoting/moving parts to ensure that the parts are moving freely without binding. Things I check for - after removing the hammer spring see if the hammer is able to pivot freely or if it binds through its travel to the firing pin. Check to see if the cocking rod (usually near the bottom of the receiver) is able to move freely back and forth. Check your extractors/ejectors by looking underneath to see if there is flash/excess metal which is preventing them from sitting flush with the breech face (receiver side) or the barrel side.

I was going to post my experiences with the Ricol to show the work that I did to get it running more smoothly but I haven't gotten around to it. The key to this is to remember that these shotguns are supposed to be handbuilt and I think as a cost cutting measure many of these companies are just rushing the fitting process to get these shotguns out the door which makes them really stiff and in some cases really really sucky to use. Despite that I still think they are great little guns for the price...
 
This is typical for the Baikal, due to overly strong springs. There is a thread on the internet that discusses this with appropriate modifications to reduce spring pressure. I'm sure you can find it with a bit of digging...
 
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