my enfield arrived.

Mr. Friendly

Mr. Friendly

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now...I'm not very mechanical in nature at all. in fact, the simple bolt on this rifle has already befuddled me. I've figured how to get it in, how to get it out, but I can't seem to push it in and lock it down, so I honestly don't know what I'm missing (maybe I should buy a single shot and worry about learning how to understand the trigger mechanisms, LOL). so, what I propose is that someone helpfully offer me a link that shows me the tear down on a Lee Enfield No4MkI, so I can study some diagrams (I bought the LE simple because I've always thought they looked handsome, no other reason) to give myself a better basis and understanding of the LE.

thanks for not mocking the noob...or at least, not using canned tomato's when you do. :D :rolleyes: :D

edit - I know...pictures or it didn't happen. I don't have a camera, so I can't...but one day I will (I'll see if I can borrow a digi cam from someone).
 
Did you perhaps not screw the bolt head all the way in? I'm a noob myself, and i can see that happeng. Also check the bolt screw behind he bolt. Did you move it when you took it out? Push the bolt all the way in, and there should be a 'springy' feelling. That's you cocking the firing pin. Push it all the way in and push it down. Should work!
 
Is the end of the bolt fully screwed on ? Try to fully screw it on, insert it in the action, and it will probably close

Ask me how I know...
 
another funny about the bolt. NOT pushing the bolt head down until it rides in the track.

On a No4Mk1, with the bolt head at the rear of the travel, it must be pushed down against the bolt catch spring until it is in the track and then moved forward.
On a No4Mk1*, the bolt must be moved forward until you can push the bolt head down into the cut-out in the rail.

If you don't engage the bolt track the bolt head will ride on top of it and ain't no way you are going to close the bolt.

As other folks mentioned, often on removal the bolt head will turn around once, and again, it will not work!
 
Take a look at www.surplusrifle.com. If you check under Lee Enfield #4mk1, I'm sure they'll have thorough instructions on how to assemble/disassemble your enfield, bolt included. You'll probably appreciate a couple of other articles suited to the newcomer to military surplus firearms.

Don't fret being a bit clumsy or frustrated. We've all felt that way at some point, and it's better to ask before unneedlessly messing something up.

Regards,

Frank
 
Indeed. We've all made that mistake. Your first option should be to make sure the bolt head is screwed on all the way and is engaging the rail. Second, make sure the cocking knob is sitting properly, take a look at pictures, if the cocking knob/serrated slab is tilted, it won't close properly.
You should feel, when you close the rifle, a resistance, then a harder push will carry the bolt forward and you can lock it down. A little penetrating oil will help around the bolt head. it could be you have grit in the bolt head and it's screw grooves, preventing it from properly moving. It can happen, believe me, Rosses are horrid for it in fact, but it's a different reason.
 
Mr. Friendly said:
well gents, you were all right. the bolt head wasn't tightened. that fixed it! :D
Click to expand...

Good to hear you have it all worked out, as mentioned, the bolt head not being screwed in is one of the most common issues New enfield owners encounter. I only avoided it by luck as the bolt head on my dad's No.4 (first enfield I handled) was already all the way the first time I put it in. By experimentation I then found out that it will not work if the head is turned once (at least it should not work)
 
Mr. Friendly said:
well gents, you were all right. the bolt head wasn't tightened. that fixed it! :D
Click to expand...

Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions.

The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25


2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=3314

Complete Set includes:

- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions


1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=3322

Complete Set includes:

- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions

Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.

Hope this helps... :)

Regards,
Badger
 
The first time I disassembled an SKS I managed to hit myself in the face with the recoil spring. In front of about ten people. Then I couldn't get the damn thing back together.

We all start somewhere. Glad you worked it out =)
 
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