My Enfield No.4 Mark I
- Thread starter Dake21
- Start date
That's a great deal! I saw sporters exactly like that going for $125-$150 at gun show on Sunday. Congrats on the buy. Although I have no experience with sporterized enfields, I would be interested to know if you could get rid of the v blade rear sight and out the original peep sights back on.
Enjoy
Enjoy
The read sight only costs around $40-$60 to replace. I'm in the market for one for with the micrometer type adjustment. I am far more accurate with a peep than a v blade lol. I haven't seen much in the way of replacement furniture for sale. Most of the new stuff is to sporterize the damn rifles. No good!
MapleSugar
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- On the loose from NIMH
May it be your first of many!
It's strange though. It's a No.4 Mk1 that someone has removed the excellent rear peep sight, then either replaced the barrel with one for a No.1 MkIII, or silver soldered on the rear sight for one.
It's strange though. It's a No.4 Mk1 that someone has removed the excellent rear peep sight, then either replaced the barrel with one for a No.1 MkIII, or silver soldered on the rear sight for one.
MapleSugar
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- On the loose from NIMH
Try a box of Federal Hi-Shok 180 gr. SP's if you don't reload.
I think it's the same load as the Federal Classic that I always got great accuracy with years ago.
It burns really clean too, which makes cleaning the barrel much easier after a shooting session.
I think it's the same load as the Federal Classic that I always got great accuracy with years ago.
It burns really clean too, which makes cleaning the barrel much easier after a shooting session.
They're definitely not an out of the box shooter. I've started hand loading rounds to the sights on mine (slower rounds). But I was told you can get front blades of varying heights and swap them out. There's some replacement wood sets available in the EE
I'm not into hand loading yet. My father is going to give me his tools for handloading and teach me how to do it this summer. Until then I will buy new rounds. Does walmart sells any?
I don't know what "EE" is?
MapleSugar
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- On the loose from NIMH
I can't recall if Walmart does, but you can find it at Canadian Tire.
Unfortunately, 303 British isn't a cheap caliber to buy for anymore. The Federal Hi-Shok costs about $28 for a box of 20.
If you aren't in a hurry, wait until they have one of those scratch & win coupons in the flyers that are a minimum of $5 off your purchase.
They just had one this last Saturday though, so it might be awhile before they have another promotion.
There are several threads on Lee-Enfields and Number 4s and .303 and so forth, all "on the go" right now. Cross-check with those for more information regarding handloading the .303 cartridge for the Lee-Enfield Number 4 rifle. It's a lot of work to put together a lengthy, informative post and it's a waste of bandwidth just to duplicate it all over the place, so a bit of mercy on the guys who answer, and on the site owner, can go a long way.
This is a nice early Number 4 (that round cocking-piece did not last long in production) but it has been messed with by some shop in England trying to make it more "practical". THAT can be undone, but I think the barrel also has been bobbed.... and that can not be undone short of replacing the barrel. You have a very nice Moose rifle here, for about $800 less than buying a new one.... and it will give you a lot less trouble than many new rifles, too. The .303 will anchor anything in North America if you can place the bullet and the Lee-Enfield has been the world's best freezer-filler since before the invention of the freezer.
You can source bulk fresh cases for $60 a hundred, unfired, from Trade-Ex; they are a site sponsor, so you just click their logo at the top of this page. Their .303 brass is Partizan, made in Serbia and closer to MilSpec than anything else available.
The rifle should be marked wll on the lft side of the frame. That gives you the 'where and when and who' of manufacture.
Hope this helps.
This is a nice early Number 4 (that round cocking-piece did not last long in production) but it has been messed with by some shop in England trying to make it more "practical". THAT can be undone, but I think the barrel also has been bobbed.... and that can not be undone short of replacing the barrel. You have a very nice Moose rifle here, for about $800 less than buying a new one.... and it will give you a lot less trouble than many new rifles, too. The .303 will anchor anything in North America if you can place the bullet and the Lee-Enfield has been the world's best freezer-filler since before the invention of the freezer.
You can source bulk fresh cases for $60 a hundred, unfired, from Trade-Ex; they are a site sponsor, so you just click their logo at the top of this page. Their .303 brass is Partizan, made in Serbia and closer to MilSpec than anything else available.
The rifle should be marked wll on the lft side of the frame. That gives you the 'where and when and who' of manufacture.
Hope this helps.
MapleSugar
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- On the loose from NIMH
His receiver is a Savage No.4 Mk1 made in 1942.
Too bad the rifle has been bubba'd, it would be fairly scarce in it's original configuration.
Some spots lost the blue finish, do I have to reblue the whole rifle or I can only work on the spot where it needs some work? I called to my local gun shop and they said it would be 225$ to reblue the whole gun. It's too much money IMO.
and I want a ladder sight. Those sights are beautiful! The current V sight has been welded on the barrel and I'm affraid to make it worst if I take it out.
and I want a ladder sight. Those sights are beautiful! The current V sight has been welded on the barrel and I'm affraid to make it worst if I take it out.
Just touch it up with a spot of Birchwood Casey Perma-Blue. It matches the original finish very closely.
Aperture rear sight is installed easily. You need the spring and plunger, axis pin, sight itself and axis pin retaining pin.
Original rear sight on this rifle likely was the Mark 1 with the micrometer-screw-thread adjustment. Nice but slow to work with. A Mark 4 rear sight is stamped sheet-metal but adjusts much faster. They all interchange quite quickly and easily.
If the sight bed is welded to the barrel, you can remove the sight leaf by removing the cross-pin, then remove the spring and screw below it. Put the parts away safely; you WILL need them, some day! After this, you will still have the (welded) BED on the barrel, but it won't interfere with your shooting.
Good luck!
Aperture rear sight is installed easily. You need the spring and plunger, axis pin, sight itself and axis pin retaining pin.
Original rear sight on this rifle likely was the Mark 1 with the micrometer-screw-thread adjustment. Nice but slow to work with. A Mark 4 rear sight is stamped sheet-metal but adjusts much faster. They all interchange quite quickly and easily.
If the sight bed is welded to the barrel, you can remove the sight leaf by removing the cross-pin, then remove the spring and screw below it. Put the parts away safely; you WILL need them, some day! After this, you will still have the (welded) BED on the barrel, but it won't interfere with your shooting.
Good luck!
Do you mean that the barrel itself is canted over to one side, or that it doesn't run straight down the middle of the channel in the wood?
Number 4 Rifle was supposed to be bedded solid around the action and the chamber, but was free-floating in front of that. As originally made, they had a 4- to 6-pound pressure-point JUST behind the rear sight.
Your wood has been modified, so you can't do that. Your barrel should not touch the wood anywhere in front of the chamber.
BUT (and that's a big 'but') MANY of these rifles, after being sportered, DO shoot better with a pressure-point bearing upward against the bottom of the barrel, at the front of the sporter stock. You can make up a temporary one to try with kitchen foil and, if the rifle likes it, make a permanent one with Acra-Glas. If working with Acra-Glas or ANY other epoxy, be sure the actual surface of the METAL is greased lightly. If it is not, then you will glue your whole rifle solid.... and that is NOT good: freezer time IF you are lucky!
If the barrel itself is canted out of vertical, that is entirely a different problem.
Hope this helps.
Number 4 Rifle was supposed to be bedded solid around the action and the chamber, but was free-floating in front of that. As originally made, they had a 4- to 6-pound pressure-point JUST behind the rear sight.
Your wood has been modified, so you can't do that. Your barrel should not touch the wood anywhere in front of the chamber.
BUT (and that's a big 'but') MANY of these rifles, after being sportered, DO shoot better with a pressure-point bearing upward against the bottom of the barrel, at the front of the sporter stock. You can make up a temporary one to try with kitchen foil and, if the rifle likes it, make a permanent one with Acra-Glas. If working with Acra-Glas or ANY other epoxy, be sure the actual surface of the METAL is greased lightly. If it is not, then you will glue your whole rifle solid.... and that is NOT good: freezer time IF you are lucky!
If the barrel itself is canted out of vertical, that is entirely a different problem.
Hope this helps.
