My M10x after 400 rounds

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Skoock

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Hey guys, new to the forum here but just wanted to add what's going on with my M10x.

Bought late May this year W09### serial number. From new it shot about 250 rounds of norinco Noncorrosive red box, barnaul, psp soft point, some China surplus blue/white box and a good bit of Serbian surplus brass case.
Not many feeding issues, maybe about 6 light primer strikes, and did have a couple stove pipes here and there and cartridges not extracting at all and getting jammed in between the blot carrier and the chamber/wall.

Recently went to the range and shot about 100 rounds. Towards the end of my range time, I was getting failure to feeds every 3-5 shots. This was extremely high malfunctions compared to the typical stove pipe every 40 or 50 shots.

Took the rifle home and disassembled it and noticed my pistol spring was broken near the piston end. I sent the pictures to the M+M contact on Reddit and they told me it's because the spring got cooked, lost its strength and snapped. They said that it should be covered under warranty so I opened a warranty claim on the m+m website. I have not heard back yet from them but I will update with info when I hear back.

h ttps://i.postimg.cc/6QF6Xv9g/RDT-20220829-0108167857511709134629174.jpg

h ttps://i.postimg.cc/pTDvMcc5/RDT-20220829-0108196469442599474271211.jpg

Cheers everyone!
 
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Lol. Piston spring got cooked with 5rd mags?

I hate to jump on the M+M hate band wagon as someone who has enjoyed their products, but that's nothing but a excuse for poor craftsmanship in my opinion. I have never heard of this issue with a Swiss 550 series which uses the same design principles.

Short of paying for a membership for limited qty and simplified picture posting, you're probably best off hosting using a site like postimg to host them and then copy and paste the forum specific hotlink to CGN.
 
Figured out the pictures and added them.
I felt like it should be able to handle a bit more heat than that aswell. Maybe just a bad spring, I haven't heard of this issue with anyone else's M10x.
 
Here are the images
RDT-20220829-0108167857511709134629174.jpg

RDT-20220829-0108196469442599474271211.jpg
 
drago403 said:
never happened when I owned one, but I never did run 250 rounds in a single session and only ran non corrosive ammo.
Click to expand...

Should be able to run hundreds of rounds through any firearm in a day without breakage. These aren't fully automatic machine guns, and even they don't break without misuse and lack of maintenance.
 
These guns are garbage inside a piñata. Everyone knows whats inside sucks, but the outside is fun so they keep buying them. I would buy dang near any other x39 gun over this one. Pathetic that the company can't get a reliable gun in x39, which should be one of the easiest rounds to create a reliable rifle for given the taper of the case.
 
nothing but garbage. After seeing the pics of the factory that North Sylva posted, i understand one of the reaons why they build a crap producr. Their assembly procedures and work stations are pathetic. Only thing missing are open bottles of booze and a bong.
 
Interesting, I've shot several hundred of mine already, mainly barnaul & norinco red box but nothing like this has happened. It's also a first hearing something like this happen with this gun. I've had a couple stove pipes with red box but barnaul has been a beauty for this gun.
 
Update!

I got the rifle back from North Sylva about a month after I sent it out. They replaced the spring and nothing else. Since then I've taken it to the range for more testing with different ammo and have made some real progress on getting to know this rifle. I found a Facebook group of owners and found a bunch of info on there and made some slight modifications to the rifles receiver and bolt. After another 200 rounds or so with the new spring and some minor filing done, the rifle runs much more consistent and better than ever. The results are as follows.

These were all shot on gas setting 1

With 150 rounds of norinco noncorrosive (redbox) I had zero malfunctions. It ran like a top, nice and smooth. I tested Pmags, promags, KCI steel, and surplus steel. All ran fine, no malfunctions. The steel mags sit loose but doesn't seem to effect the function so far.

40 rounds of PPU JSP (brass case). I only ran these on my tried and true Pmags tat came with the rifle. I had 1 FTE on the final 40th round, the case ended up jammed length ways between the bolt and the receiver, next to the chamber. I'm not positive on the reason for this one, and at the time I forgot to check if the hammer had been recocked, indicating that the bolt was short stroking.

Winchester Boar & Buck, brass, soft points.
The m10x really didn't like this stuff on gas1. I tried a couple different magazines, only loading 3 shots at a time and I was getting quite a lot of fte and ftf. The bolt next recocked the hammer each time it failed, leading me to believe these rounds are loaded too lightly for this rifle on gas1. I believe I would've had much better luck on gas 2(full power) but sadly I didn't have anymore rounds to try, and I can't find more of these anywhere recently.

Barnaul hollow point and FMJ
60 rounds, zero issues. Me likey. Nothing much to say here.

Serbian surplus, brass, boxer primed.
I've concluded that this ammo ####in sucks. Constant light primer strikes, if you smack it a second time tho it goes bang. The ejection pattern with these was all over the place, and I had a few stove pipes with it, sometimes it recocked hammer, sometimes not. I'm glad I'm Basically out of this stuff. Only thing good I have to say about it is that it really helped me learn to troubleshoot this rifle.

Overall I'm much happier with the rifle since last post. I filed off a few mm on the bolt carrier where it contacts the receiver, and rotates the bolt into full battery. By doing this, the bolt turns later and gives more wiggle room for the bolt to pass the rail that the BCG rides on. I also filed the piece of the receiver the bolt contacts, just a teensy bit. On the piston, I spent a lot of time polishing the end that sits closest to the gas port, allowing some more wiggle room in there for the piston to slide out of the gas selector, reducing friction.

I want to take 1 coil out of the firing pin spring to loosen up some tension there and hopefully that will stop the light primer strikes with ####ty old ammo. I also ordered a SIG 556 piston spring to replace the OEM piston spring incase it ever breaks again. It's not a direct fit but if you cut something like 35 coils out of it, it runs a similar tension.

I think most people would have given up on this rifle by now but I'm determined to get this thing tuned perfectly because it really does run beautifully when it's working.

It's a #### shot but it's MY #### show
 
I bought one recently after the gun store I acquired it from preached its awesomeness next to god. Have only about 200 Rds through it.
Also joined the bookface page and did the same mods. And graphite sprayed the carrier slides and use 10w engine oil on the rest.
Only had 1 fte with brass on G1.

Currently using barnaul and norinco red.

Accuracy is garbage. Never hit the same
Spot twice in a 20 Rds. My sks is more accurate with a red dot and cost 80% less.

But …yes it looks pretty and feels good
 
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