My new antique
- Thread starter BSA Jack
- Start date
Thank you again 
for the comments, Here are some pics: Note the inspectors marks PTB and Landstormen (paramiltary) number 399, Interesting for some that may not know, you follow the letters starting at A to disassemble the gun.
Start by pulling out the ejector rod and turning it to the side. Next, pull out the cylinder yoke. Open the loading gate and remove the cylinder.
Next to the screw on the right side plate, you will find the letter A. Undo this screw a bit, then tap it gently with the handle of a screwdriver or similar to loosen the side plate. Repeat this until you can easily remove both the screw and the side plate.
Turn the gun over and check out all the letters found inside...
Next, #### the hammer and insert the screw you removed at A into hole B. Slowly d-#### the hammer (C) and then lift it out.
The cylinder hand (D) can now also be lifted out, as can the hammer (E) after that.
Undo the screw (F) at the forward end of the trigger guard. The trigger guard can now be turned down and then unhooked at the rear end (G).
This also releases the main spring (H), which can now be lifted out.
Dis-assembly complete! Reassemble in reverse order
Note the lead tip of a jacketed 32-20 rifle load just sticks out of the cylinder, so the cases will get trimmed about that much. From reading before the 7.5 case length should be from about .886 to .895 depending on what info you come across. I think the max length on 32-20 is about 1.315
I got some 32-20 brass from a member on here and have the following coming so hopefully should be set up to make some ammo.
Something that is important if you decide to shoot one of these is to slug the bore. I read this a few years ago and can't find the info now but many of the Nagents in 7.5 will use a bullet Dia. of .320 or so. You MUST slug the bore. calipers and mic's don't lie, this one is .3075, and bore dia. of .293, just my idea maybe the early Husqvarna build-- (1897) had a tighter bore ? I had some buck shot which just worked perfect to slug, soft lead and probabley about that .320 or so. Lube barrel good and tap- push through, I used my deer horn BP starter and then a short old brass rod (no idea what it was).
http://leeprecision.com/3-die-set-30m1-carbide.html
http://leeprecision.com/mold-dc-311-100-2r.html
http://leeprecision.com/new-lube-size-kit-.309.html
Thank you again any advice or comments are much appreciated.
for the comments, Here are some pics: Note the inspectors marks PTB and Landstormen (paramiltary) number 399, Interesting for some that may not know, you follow the letters starting at A to disassemble the gun.Start by pulling out the ejector rod and turning it to the side. Next, pull out the cylinder yoke. Open the loading gate and remove the cylinder.
Next to the screw on the right side plate, you will find the letter A. Undo this screw a bit, then tap it gently with the handle of a screwdriver or similar to loosen the side plate. Repeat this until you can easily remove both the screw and the side plate.
Turn the gun over and check out all the letters found inside...
Next, #### the hammer and insert the screw you removed at A into hole B. Slowly d-#### the hammer (C) and then lift it out.
The cylinder hand (D) can now also be lifted out, as can the hammer (E) after that.
Undo the screw (F) at the forward end of the trigger guard. The trigger guard can now be turned down and then unhooked at the rear end (G).
This also releases the main spring (H), which can now be lifted out.
Dis-assembly complete! Reassemble in reverse order
Note the lead tip of a jacketed 32-20 rifle load just sticks out of the cylinder, so the cases will get trimmed about that much. From reading before the 7.5 case length should be from about .886 to .895 depending on what info you come across. I think the max length on 32-20 is about 1.315
I got some 32-20 brass from a member on here and have the following coming so hopefully should be set up to make some ammo.
Something that is important if you decide to shoot one of these is to slug the bore. I read this a few years ago and can't find the info now but many of the Nagents in 7.5 will use a bullet Dia. of .320 or so. You MUST slug the bore. calipers and mic's don't lie, this one is .3075, and bore dia. of .293, just my idea maybe the early Husqvarna build-- (1897) had a tighter bore ? I had some buck shot which just worked perfect to slug, soft lead and probabley about that .320 or so. Lube barrel good and tap- push through, I used my deer horn BP starter and then a short old brass rod (no idea what it was).
http://leeprecision.com/3-die-set-30m1-carbide.html
http://leeprecision.com/mold-dc-311-100-2r.html
http://leeprecision.com/new-lube-size-kit-.309.html
Thank you again any advice or comments are much appreciated.
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I'm bumping this back to the top but yes playkation, don't you guys and gals find the dis-assembly of this simply amazing. I know otherss like the 1895 russian etc are simple but when I think of the trying to take apart a colt, Iver Johnson, webbley etc etc or is it just because it is 30 above and I have had a couple of beer 
No, they really are a wonderfull gun. Most of the European arms of this time are. IMHO
I wonder if the under-wellming performance of the cartridge (cartidges of the world) is due to the poor powders of the day and not to light loads used due to the inferior metalurgy of the times?
I think they are every bit as well built and strong as the 1892 French service revolver and should be able to withstand some fairly hot loads?
I wonder if the under-wellming performance of the cartridge (cartidges of the world) is due to the poor powders of the day and not to light loads used due to the inferior metalurgy of the times?
I think they are every bit as well built and strong as the 1892 French service revolver and should be able to withstand some fairly hot loads?
I do think you are right Pete, I did some searching tonite , I wanted to find the old forum that talked about the bore size being .308 or should i say bullet dia. anyways I found it This thread is an interesting read, it's old from 2008 but mentions the fact that when Norma loaded the 7.5 Swedish cartridge the chamber pressure was 15,000 psi which is right up there with todays factory loaded 32-20's I think. Anyways copy and paste and read this over if you like and give me a report on your thoughts. I am not going to load my gun too hot but it might be fun to find a newer non antique Nagent and shoot the poop out of it.
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?76518-Ammo-For-Nagant-M-1887
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?76518-Ammo-For-Nagant-M-1887
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- Not really sure.
I would think they are just as good as the French 1892's. Fiocchi loaded their 8mm lebel revolver ammo to around 880fps with 111gr metal jacket round with around 190 ft/lbs of muzzel energy.
Thats well above the original 720 fps and 125 ft/lbs which the mle 1892 still handles fine. So I would figure the 1887's are capable of better performance no problem.
I Had and recently sold a antique 440 Brazilian Nagant that was set up to shoot 44 sp it was is one of the best made guns i ever seen the way it came apart and the machineing involved a company today would go broke trying to make a gun like that.
Alot of theses so called antiques when like new noy all worn are better made than alot of modern guns.
My US goverment Schofield thats like new outa a box is way better than any modern gun ive held as far as i can tell the fit and finish of the steel parts blows me away.
It just shuts with a click then rock solid.
Heres that little nagants much older big brother LOL
Alot of theses so called antiques when like new noy all worn are better made than alot of modern guns.
My US goverment Schofield thats like new outa a box is way better than any modern gun ive held as far as i can tell the fit and finish of the steel parts blows me away.
It just shuts with a click then rock solid.
Heres that little nagants much older big brother LOL
