My New Rifle - new pics and some 200 yard groups

juanvaldez

juanvaldez

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Sudbury, Ontario
Not hard to guess who inspired this rifle.

So far I have:

- Stevens Action

- 6mmBr. Norma, .272 no neck turn, 28" stainless steel super match, 8 twist, Straight cylinder, 1.055 shank, 4 groove, 11degree target crown

- Rifle Basix Sav2 4 Ounce Trigger

- Sightron SII 36 Fixed

- Machinist Friend who offered to make a bbl block.

Bondoed up tupperware stock in progress.

One question I have for guys with experience with these types of builds (read "Mystic") is; Is there any disadvantage to keeping the bbl nut? I've rebarreled that action several times now and I like being able to do it myself. My pacnor is a semi custom prefit so obviously I need it for this bbl but noticed at least 1 of Mystics notable rifles was without a bbl nut. Another question...with a smaller diameter bbl like this is their anything gained by using a bbl block? I was hoping that using it to free float the action might be of some advantage.


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Great to see your project so far along. Looks good.

There is no loss in accuracy in keeping the nut. Whichever style you like. The barrel block will help when supporting a long heavy barrel. For my needs, the biggest advantage is as a huge heat sink for those long F class relays.

A 1" diam 28" long barrel is easily supported by the action. Saying that, I would put some bedding under the first 1" or so from the barrel nut. More support under the chamber portion of the barrel will do no harm and can keep long term wear and tear on the stock to a min.

Remember there is a lot of force wanting to pulling the rear action screw through the stock. Supporting a bit under the barrel gets rid of this and any issue with the stock recoil lug bending. I see you have gone with a heavy recoil lug - good stuff.

I would also extend the forend BACK to infront of the mag well. There is HUGE amount of flex right at the recoil lug/action screw area in these stocks and support here is needed.. My solution is to run the plywood bottom back behind the action screw then build up the sides with lumber. That makes the forend/recoil lug/action screw area bullet proof.

Instead of foam, you may want to put in some lead in the buttstock. For my present Pac Nor, I have put in a few lbs of lead shot to balance the rifle. Your bondo in the rear might be enough weight. To check, the rifle should sit level when picked up at the front action screw - palm centered on the action screw. If it tilts forward, you need to add weight to the rear. If it tilts back, add to the front. That balance is what allows the rifle to recoil true in the bags.

If you have to, tilting forward a bit can be overcome by adjusting the rifle rests when shooting. many shooters like their rifles muzzle heavy so they 'sit' down on the front rest or bipod and put this rest way in front. I prefer a slightly 'tail' heavy bench rifle if not balanced.

The 6BR is light recoiling rd so the rifle isn't going to travel far during recoil so not as big a deal. On a boomer, proper balance will show up in better tracking and less torquing in the bags.

Post more pics as your project moves along. Of course, a range report will be needed.

Jerry
 
I was planning on using some lead in the butstock and some spray expanding foam. Since I cut the forend away along the bbl channel is flex in that area still an issue? Also if I use a bbl block (I can get it for free) isn't everything essentially just hanging off the block, would that soften the effect of a flimsy stock? I kept all of the supporting structure in the forend its buried in long strand fiber glass filler and plywood

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It is important to have the stock rigid over its full length. Having it flex will cause it to 'bounce' and you will get flyers.

Alot of effort is spent on getting the metal parts perfect. Without a solid base/stock, all of that will go to waste. Flex will be increased if you put even more mass on the foreend with that block.

Unless you are realy good with using pins, your best bet is to remove the plywood you have there now and glue on longer pieces. Trying to splice them in at the rear will do nothing in the long run.

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
It is important to have the stock rigid over its full length. Having it flex will cause it to 'bounce' and you will get flyers.

Alot of effort is spent on getting the metal parts perfect. Without a solid base/stock, all of that will go to waste. Flex will be increased if you put even more mass on the foreend with that block.

Unless you are realy good with using pins, your best bet is to remove the plywood you have there now and glue on longer pieces. Trying to splice them in at the rear will do nothing in the long run.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Ya I see what you are getting at, I think I will inlet the bottom and run a piece of aluminum or steel channel through trhe existing plywood and then scab another length of plywood on to hide the channel. Bury it all in glass or bondo. Should be plenty strong the??
 
Spun my bbl on and loaded up a few rounds to give her a quick test run today. Here are the groups I shot. Loaded 9 rounds, used 3 to sight in and then shot 2 groups of 3. To say I am pretty excieted would be an understatment. Bbl is on a stevens action with an sss trigger. Put it in a Choate UV just to test fire. Shot from bags at 100 yards

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Looks like you are well on your way to having a tack driver. Nice to see other project rifles shooting in the 1's and 2's with these actions. I can only assume that the action is box stock?

What bullet were you using and will be using in the future?

Good stuff.

Jerry
 
Shot some groups at 200 yards. This gun is looking very promising...played around at 100 yards then kept 10 rounds for some 200 yard groups. First group 3/4" c to c and second 1/2" c to c. I 'm happy with that one for sure!!

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Come on, you guys, everyone knows those Stevens 200s are just cheap junk. They can't possibly be used to build a rifle that shoots that well.

You have to spend at least $600-800 for an action. :eek:

Ted
 
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juan, nice shooting. Now try tweaking your load in one tenth increments around this load. Test at 200yds. It might squeeze the group a little bit smaller.

1/4 min is getting close to the mechanical accuracy of this rig. At least all the Pac Nor barrels I have seen seem to shoot to this limit.

Jerry
 
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