My Poor 629

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pearcetopher

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Hi All,

Last year I bought a 629 44 mag SW

Fires great but after about 200 rounds I noticed the guns starting to fall apart

Two screws on the frame back off after ever few shots and recently the grip spring backed off and fell to the side causing light primer strikes and missfires.

I spent good money on this firearms but am unhappy with it falling apart while shooting.

I have considered blue loctiting the screws in but feel I shouldn't have to.

Also I am shooting full house 40,000CUP loads.

Please advise,

Chris
 
Blue loctite should be ok, but your right, it shouldn't happen.
Maybe submit for warranty? There is a canadian rep but don't have the contact.
 
Apply some Loctite to the frame screws that loosened; that's what I did with my 629-3. It solved that problem.
As for the gripspring ( I'm guessing that you mean the mainspring): I had trouble with that too, but used a similar treatment- I was having trouble getting primer strikes in double-action mode.
This worked as well.
The gun has since had many rounds put through it, with no issues.
It's a 1989 model 629-3 that was billed as a "custom overrun" by Lever Arms. I bought it in late 1999.
"As new" out of the box; never test-fired.
Apart from those two easily resolved problems, the gun works well.
 
I suspect for every S&W disparaging thread, I suspect strongly there are about a dozen other complaints regarding other makes of 44 magnum revolver.
Myself I've owned a 1993 made 629 since I purchased it from the very first owner in the year 2000.

Zero complaints.
 
Using full power loads in these handguns eventually leads to issues with them. I have owned a couple of different 44mags including very strong single actions.

One of the single actions was a Sauer & Sohns made in Germany and at the time was considered to be tougher than the Ruger Blackhawk as far as blow up tests went. The other was a Ruger Blackhawk. Both pistols suffered from screws backing off. First the screw holding the ejection plunger on the side of the barrel loosened off, then frame screws started doing the same but nothing dangerous. Blue Loc Tite cured all of the issues for as long as I owned the pistols.

I also owned a Ruger Redhawk and a S&W Model 29 first model. Both had the same issues described by the OP. Again Blue Loc Tite cured the issues.

I must admit I was a performance freak back then and bigger/faster just had to be better. The last pistol I owned was the Sauer & Sonhns I started to load it to more sensible levels and not only was the pistol a lot more reasonable to shoot but it was much easier on the pistol.

The design of these pistols is not conducive to lack of stress on the screws that hold it together or the accessories onto them.

If I may be so bold, Load the cartridges down to more manageable levels for the pistol and yourself.

Nothing to feel let down about. Just a lack of understanding the forces at work when you shoot the pistol.

Even smaller 357 magnums work the screws loose after many full house rounds are fired through them. This has been an issue that has plagued the owners of such handguns for a century or longer.

The 44 mag is a darn fine cartridge and so is your revolver. Just do a bit more preventive maintenance on it and you will be fine to go for a long time. IMHO, S&W should Loc Tite those screws in the factory before the pistols are released for sale.

searcher, I sincerely doubt that your pistol was released from S&W without being test fired for issues. If there aren't any stamps on it, maybe. If there are stamps on it, you can guarantee that pistol was test fired in the factory before it went into the box.
 
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Get a set of correctly-fitting hollow-ground screwdrivers/bits and some blue Loctite. Apply the Loctite to the screws and tighten snugly. Check screws periodically to ensure they are tight.

Any gun, especially one with heavy recoil, with screws in it has the potential for them to come loose. Consider yourself lucky that you don't have a real problem, like a broken hammer or trigger stud.
 
Hundreds and hundreds of rounds thru my 629.. all factory or full power reloads. Never an issue. If absolutely necessary then use the blue locktite. just make sure the threads are clean / oil free before using it to maximize the hold.

I still find it strange that it has things working loose.....
 
Bearhunter, there were no stamps on it.
Furthermore, there was no documentation showing that it was test fired- no spent casing ( the way that manufacturers often include in a small package with the gun).
The gun "gleamed" upon opening; no marks, no wear. The cylinder was pristine.
Conversely, when I bought a 629-6 last year ( it was manufactured in February, 2013- I know this, I called the factory), it had been test fired, with the spent casing included, and it looked as if it had. The action had that "been fired/ powder burn" look.
When you say "stamp", do you mean on the box? I still have the box ( it didn't come with a case- just a box and parchment paper).
 
Had the crane lock screw on my 1993 629-3 Classic DX back out once. Darn near almost dropped my cylinder and crane onto a concrete floor when I rolled it out to reload. Since new the revolver only had a couple/3 cylinders of full power loads. It's the only 44 magnum in my collection that I shoot reduced loads with. Anyway, as mentioned it's not a big problem when you're aware of it and know what to look for. Beautiful revolvers and don’t be scared to add one to your collection.
 
Nothing new to me. I shoot revos a ton, and the screws in all of them will loosen up over time if I don't use some blue loctite.
From 625-3's (1989) to new 929 and 986's. It's normal in my experience.
 
TACTICAL111 said:
Nothing new to me. I shoot revos a ton, and the screws in all of them will loosen up over time if I don't use some blue loctite.
From 625-3's (1989) to new 929 and 986's. It's normal in my experience.
Click to expand...

That is somewhat true for myself as well.
I have a Ruger Old Army manufactured in 1976 that backs out the screw that secures the hammer on a regular basis.
 
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