Nagant Scope Mount

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Rohann

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Well I'm not getting any replies so could some of you guys please look at my thread in Main Battle Rifles?
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Thanks,
-Rohann
 
This is a redone, unmatching stamp Nagant from S.I.R mailorder. I got it for $150; I don't think there's much value left. I'm looking to make this into a hunting rifle/good shooter.

-Rohann
 
Matching aint got nothing to do with it. Save yourself a whack of grief & get the scout stye of scope mount that doesn't involve hacking the rifle & an ler scope. The problem with the ati system is the bolt, either the ati hack job(cheap but crap) or a custom bolt(works but its going to cost yah). Then you got to pay a smith to install the mount. To top it all off as soon as you drill that reciever the gun is worth $50(maybe less). Btw those mismatched german k98s people pay $800 for now, sold for $60 in 1991 at king sol surplus. Any guess as to what a drill & tap one is worth?
 
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I've calculated what it's going to cost, and I'm willing to pay it. I'm trying to make a relatively inexpensive but practical (and accurate) sniper repro. I don't really care if I have to damage the stock at all. I'm most likely going to buy a matching infantry rifle sometime, so it doesn't really matter to me. Oh and I'm buying the repro bolt from buymilsurp.com.

-Rohann
 
I've always thought it would be slick to make up a repro sniper out of a MN carbine. Then you dont have anyone accusing you of forgery, and it's a neat "what if"...

However, there are places in the states that offer real MN snipers that have been converted to regular rifles. for an extra few bucks maybe you oughta import one and rebuild it, then you have a gennie sniper for an extra 200 bucks, compared to a cobbled together fake. I'tll cost ya what, 600 bucks or so to take an SIR special and make it a a sniper, or spend an extra 2 or 300 and get the real thing. Hell, for 6 bills there's a real one on valley guns...
 
If you are going to buy the repro bolt from milsurp.com(great to deal with by the way) you need a side mount like the second one from brownell. The repro bolt will hit the ati mount. Just remember some of the windage adjustment is in the pads on the mount that go agsinst the reciever.
 
I puked in my mouth when I saw that atrocity. It's not the worst mosin bubbaization I've ever seen, but it's still pretty tacky. Ohh, it'll knock down pop cans at 100 yards! I can do that with both my mosins running, rolling ducking and shooting chuck norris style from the hip. backwards. while jumping. And I didnt have to ruin a nice mosin to do it. 400 bucks? HAAHAA! If he gets that much for it though, maybe I should start chopping up some old milsurps into garbage and make a fortune...
 
I might find it ugly but it might do what rohann wants & its probably a better shooter than your average 91/30(tight mint bore). See what I mean though? That guy probably has $600 into that thing & he is having a hard time getting 400. I think that 44 shoots way better that pop cans at 100yrds & it might save another 91/30 from death by drill bit.
 
A high sight line is a problem with side mounts, even the factory snipers end up with a chin weld. Lets not forget how much fun it is to load a rimmed cartrige with a scope in the way.
 
Thanks for all the input guys.
I have thought this through, and I'm not going to mutilate the rifle like in that link. The scope will look nearly the same (not as big), but no bipod, brake, sporterized stock or anything like that. And if this thing doesn't go as planned, I'll probably keep the 6x42 Nikon (or sell it), sell the mount (or keep it for a different project) and either sell the rifle or keep it. I'm not going to put a ridiculous amount of money into this project; I want to make this an accurate yet practical rifle. I might do an epoxy bedding job if the situation requires and some other modifications to make it shoot well (and if the barrel's worn out, I can just buy a new one or a new rifle).

ollie: I'm not looking to put that much money into it. The most I'll pay for is a scope, mount, bolt and a few modifications to make it perform better (nothing major like a sporterized stock and such). After everything is paid, I'm expecting to have paid about $600 for the project. It's not like it's something I couldn't sell either; a brand new Nikon Monarch would sell pretty quickly around here, and I'm sure I could sell the mount as well. As for the rifle, it's $150 and I'll probably keep it anyway.
This is also something fun to do. If I bought a real Mosin sniper I probably wouldn't use it.

What's the huge deal with drilling the receiver? It's a redone rifle and it costs $150. I'll probably buy another later anyways.
What do you guys think? Do you think it isn't worth the time and money? Do you still think I should go with something else?

I'm also going to make or buy a cheekpad for it. Even the real snipers had high mounts.


If I end up going through with this, what do I need to take into consideration (cost of installation, bolt clearance, difficulty loading, etc.)?

Thanks a lot,
-Rohann
 
Almost every mosin that served the Soviet Union was redone, so its not like you will find many completely original guns. Sure the numbers match on a lot of guns but if you look closely they were restamped during the refurb. So number match or not doesn't mean a whole lot with mosins.Its not like mausers were if the numbers match its an original assembly.As for the price, just because its inexpensive doesn't make it disposable. Think about it a smle(matching or not) nice shape $350, same one with holes in the reciever $175(and the person who buys it will probably take the wood off & use it to restore a sporter that has no holes & sell the one he just bought with the sporter wood for $50). Some people say the import marks on some of them make them worthless, I don't agree, hell one day people may consider them worth more because more came from this importer or that one. Every day we lose more mosins to corrosive ammo & neglect. But the real kick in the nuts is it probably will be more trouble than its worth. How does your gun shoot now. What is the groove diameter, condtion of the bore? If you have a barrel groove diameter of .314 you had better be casting if you want to shoot tight groups. If you want to really shoot tight, you have to free float the barrel, not fun if you want to retain the original stock(sand the butt in the barrel area, bed the action, hope the handguard still fits, make sure the barrel is not hitting the handguard, inlett for scope mount). Then you got to work the trigger, drill & tap, check you headspace & tighten if you can, to min spec. How is the muzzel of the barrel? If its worn counterbore or cut & recrown barrel. Wonder why finn made mosins shoot better than most? They did a lot of the same things to the guns they built. So, its got to be a good piece to begin with or you are wasting your time & money. Your the one thats got to decide if its worth it. From a erognomic standpoint, I can tell you its a disaster with the original stock.
 
Thanks for your input.
I let it slip for a while because I didn't know that DistriCorp's ammo was corrosive, but I cleaned it thoroughly afterward. The first time I took it to the range it shot about 3"-4" at 100 yards with irons. A few factors, though, are the fact that I have bad eyesight, I wasn't using sandbags or a very sturdy rest, and I was using Hungarian corrosive ammo.
The bore seems to be in good condition, I don't see any sign of rust or pitting. I'm not sure exactly how to measure bore diameter or thoroughly check for pitting or rust, but from what I can see it seems to be in good condition.
I'm not looking to make this a tack-driver; I doubt the rifles were back in their day. I'm looking to make it reasonably accurate (1-1/2MOA, 5 shots if possible), and to use it for hunting and maybe even service rifle.
The muzzle is fine as far as I can see, there are no dents or grooves on it and I take care of it (I put thick cloth over the muzzle while transporting it or storing it). I might go try a better grouping test this weekend with sandbags and the works, if I can.
Any thoughts? And how would I cast the barrel?

-Rohann
 
Thanks, will do.
I'm starting to have second thoughts about this. I'd like to build a WWII sniper clone (doesn't even have to be a clone), but I'm not sure if this is the way to go. I personally don't like the .303's much, the K98's are too scarce (if I bought one I'm grease it and store it for collection), and this seems to be a decent rifle for the project. What do you think I'll have to put into this to make it shoot at least 1-1/2MOA?

-Rohann
 
If its shooting 3"-4" with iron sights, surplus ball, not using a bench and bags, and you question your eyes, I would suggest the rifle is pretty accurate. Scoped, fired with good ammunition from a solid rest, the rifle should shoot at least 2" and probably less. As you mention, a decent scope will hold value. Basically, you have pay for the bolt handle alteration, as well as drilling and tapping the receiver for the base. This work ain't rocket science, and the cost should be reasonable. Do you have a 'smith locally who is capable of doing the work?
 
Thanks.
There are a number of qualified smiths here, so finding one won't be a problem. I'm probably going to order the handle today from http://buymilsurp.com/store/cart.php?cat=Mosin+Nagant+Rifle+Parts, but I'm not sure which handle to buy. Should I get the Sporter ATI or just the sporter? Would either work for the Brownell's side mount (the expensive one)?

Oh and I was using a bench, put all I had was a 2x6 board for a front rest and no back rest.

Thanks,
-Rohann
 
If I were buying one, I'd go with the 6a, which is closest to the original pattern. The mount Brownells sells simulates the original, so the general appearance is approximately correct. Or, get a stripped standard bolt body, cut off the knob and some of the shank, fabricate the extended shank, weld it to the stump on the bolt body, and to the remnant shank w/knob.
Clean up the welds, and voila.
 
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