Necessary to trim brass? Why or why not?

Melnibonean

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I find myself trimming a few hundreds off of my .308 cases in order to bring them to ~2.000" OAL and wonder if it's even necessary, given that they will be fired in a M1A.

Along the same lines......is it necessary to trim .223 brass if it's destined to be fired in an semi auto as well?

What's the consequence if it's not done?
 
If brass gets too long it will jam into the chamber at the point where it is "narrowed" where the mouth of the case is located and the bullet continues. That jamming may raise pressures more than you want, and it may also prevent proper chambering entirely.
 
If brass gets too long it will jam into the chamber at the point where it is "narrowed" where the mouth of the case is located and the bullet continues. That jamming may raise pressures more than you want, and it may also prevent proper chambering entirely.

What he said , cutting corners is ussually how bad things happen
 
I don't trim my brass every time, only when it exceeds the max length. For .308 that's 2.015". With regular loads I find I can get 3-5 firings before I need to trim. With reduced loads (usually cast bullets) I can shoot pretty much indefinitely without trimming. After tumbling I just measure around 10 cases per batch of 50 at random. If they're all under max length, I go ahead and load them. If some are a tad over max but the rest are just close, I usually just load them anyway. If they're mostly or all over max I trim the entire batch.

The usual consequences, for me at least, is the round wont chamber. The neck is too thick on most cases to fit into the throat (at least in my experience) so the bolt wont close all the way. The bolt not closing completely usually prevents the rifle from firing but in some rare cases in semi's it can cause the rifle to fire out of battery with usually catastrophic results. It isn't a guarantee, it isn't even that common, but it is a possibility.
 
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The only time I have ever had over pressure signs and a stuck bolt was from an untrimmed over length case that missed getting trimmed that was in .308 as well. yes it matters
 
Trimming certain calibers is very important. Good examples are .40 S&W and .45 ACP. Both of these headspace from the rim of the case...

EDIT: My apologies for using incorrect terminology. I said "rim" above while I was thinking 3 steps ahead. I intended to say "the rim of the case mouth".
 
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Trimming certain calibers is very important. Good examples are .40 S&W and .45 ACP. Both of these headspace from the rim of the case...

It would be a great example if those calibers actually grew in length from sizing but they don't. I've reloaded some 45 cases 20 times and still don't have to trim them.
 
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If you have to ask, maybe you need to stick your nose back in your loading manuals.
Things like this are all answered if you choose to look in your manuals.
You do have a few manuals don't you?
 
Trimming certain calibers is very important. Good examples are .40 S&W and .45 ACP. Both of these headspace from the rim of the case...

I would actually use these as examples where trimming is completely, utterly irrelevant. The only handgun cases I have ever trimmed were .44 Magnum cases with cracked mouths that I cut to .44 Special length to salvage.

For .308 cases, fix your caliper at 2.015" and trim the cases that don't pass through the jaws. Having them all the exact same length isn't all that critical; "in spec" is good enough for most purposes. I use a Giraud trimmer, so it is practically as fast to stick every case in the trimmer than to measure first, but for slower setups it is worth your while to sort out the ones that are over maximum and trim them only.
 
I gotta ask, you weren't trimming to minimum every firing?
Yes, but was just wondering if it was necessary after the 3rd or 4th time of trimming the same batch of cases to go into the same rifle. Hence why I own a Dillon rapid trimmer and corresponding dies. I trim so many .308 and .223 that it just made sense to go the powered route.

Trimming certain calibers is very important. Good examples are .40 S&W and .45 ACP. Both of these headspace from the rim of the case...
Not true. You might want to look into the source of that info you got.
 
Not true. You might want to look into the source of that info you got.

HERE IS MY SOURCE (amongst others):

Lyman 49th Edition; Page 362 (40 Smith & Wesson) ; Paragraph 3:
"This cartridge headspaces from the mouth and therefore case trimming must be uniform and accurate. Do not reduce case below the trim-to length. Additionally do not roll crimp bullets as this will prevent the case from properly headspacing on its mouth. A modest taper crimp may be employed if found necessary"


Also, similar info exists on page 380 (paragraph 3) about the .45 ACP

I always trim all my .40S&W brass after the first firing. I did 250 FC cases today. About 170 were < .850", another 50 were < .855" and about 30 were .858" +/- The maximum length is .850" and trim length is .845"...
I will never have to trim these cases again and should get about 20+ reloads out of them.

Melnibonean, you had better check YOUR sources before you go shooting off posts that make you look foolish. Get yourself a good reloading manual and READ IT.
 
HERE IS MY SOURCE (amongst others):

Lyman 49th Edition; Page 362 (40 Smith & Wesson) ; Paragraph 3:
"This cartridge headspaces from the mouth and therefore case trimming must be uniform and accurate. Do not reduce case below the trim-to length. Additionally do not roll crimp bullets as this will prevent the case from properly headspacing on its mouth. A modest taper crimp may be employed if found necessary"


Also, similar info exists on page 380 (paragraph 3) about the .45 ACP

I always trim all my .40S&W brass after the first firing. I did 250 FC cases today. About 170 were < .850", another 50 were < .855" and about 30 were .858" +/- The maximum length is .850" and trim length is .845"...
I will never have to trim these cases again and should get about 20+ reloads out of them.

Melnibonean, you had better check YOUR sources before you go shooting off posts that make you look foolish. Get yourself a good reloading manual and READ IT.

For someone with the amount of words and titles in your sig line, one would assume you would be less.....ahhh......antagonistic? Is that the word I'm looking for?

Let me begin by saying I want to elaborate on my statement. I was referring to the 2 pistol calibers you mentioned as being important to trim and not to all calibers. So in that respect, you are correct and I apologize to anyone who read that if my statement gave the false opinion that I believed NO cases should be trimmed. That's clearly not the case, as illustrated by my trimming the several rifle cartridges I reload for (if they need it)

Next, while yes, trimming straight walled low pressure cases from time to time may be theoretically necessary, you are the 1st who I've read actually does it. I suppose some of my fellow IPSC and IDPA shooters might do it as well, but usually, they don't shoot the same brass often enough to experience the need given the low pressures usually involved.

As p.32, item #8 of the Lyman's 49th edition handbook states (to paraphrase)...trimming may not always be necessary. Maybe the Federal brass you referenced - being amongst the softest brass - stretched by the amount you claim owing to this quality of Federal? Because, as the Nosler 2012 reloading manual states on p.55 "In general, high velocity, tapered, bottleneck cartridges will stretch out their cases faster than low pressure, straight walled cartridges." As you know, most pistol brass fall into this category. Anecdotally, I've been using the same batch of .45ACP brass now for going on 5 years. Still works perfectly fine in all my pistols chambered in .45. I lose them rather than have to trim or replace them. The only problem I have had with .40s was the "glock bulge", and another time with my 9mm loads, which were traced back to a re-sizing die that had backed out and wasn't sizing properly; not a cartridge length issue.

I wonder why you trim to .845". Speer's reloading manual #14 says to trim to .840", although my Lyman, Hornady and Nosler manuals say .845". Would seem to me that given the longevity of .40 brass isn't so great to begin with, I suppose you could trim to the Speer length and then by the time you shot that brass enough to stretch it out to .850" (if ever), it would be time to toss it or it would be lost. Then again, I've always found COAL to be important - despite seating to fit in the specific magazine - due to pressures being more of a concern (if the bullet is seated too deeply) in pistols using faster burning pistol powders. Would you agree?

But it's your time and your gun and if you want to trim every individual pistol brass by hand, more power to you. For the amount of pistol shooting and reloading I do (and given that Dillon doesn't make a die for the rapid trimmer in pistol calibers), I choose not to. Most shooters don't either, BTW.

Thanks for letting me clear that up.
 
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HERE IS MY SOURCE (amongst others):

Lyman 49th Edition; Page 362 (40 Smith & Wesson) ; Paragraph 3:
"This cartridge headspaces from the mouth and therefore case trimming must be uniform and accurate. Do not reduce case below the trim-to length. Additionally do not roll crimp bullets as this will prevent the case from properly headspacing on its mouth. A modest taper crimp may be employed if found necessary"


You might want to reread what you posted previously:

Trimming certain calibers is very important. Good examples are .40 S&W and .45 ACP. Both of these headspace from the rim of the case...

The rim and mouth are not the same, in fact they are at opposite ends of the case.
 
I don't recall ever trimming any of my 45ACP brass when I was shooting IPSC- but then I was using a 625-8!
If I had to pizz around trimming the amount of brass I shot I would have quit that game a lot quicker than I did.
I like stuff that head spaces of the rim like as was stated, like the .303 Brit and the 45/70.
Cat
 
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