Neck Size Lube ?

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lannie

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When FL sizing i understand the need for lube (the ouside of the brass). When neck sizing i never lube.
When FL sizing i never lube the inside of the neck. Why do some people lube the inside of the neck to neck size ? Do they lube the inside of the neck when FL sizing also ? The only thing i do when neck sizing is i brush the neck out before neck sizing. I have done it this way for thousands of rounds in many calibers. If i don't clean the neck the pressure is much higher on the brass. Cleaned brass is minimal pressure. I have used this system for partial resizing with FL dies and with neck sizing dies too. This is with Redding,RCBS, and lee dies. I am just very curious after reading the other recent post on the 223. I have neck sized and shot 300 rounds in that cal. this week.
Maybe i am totally miss informed aand have passed bad advise on ?
Lannie
 
I think you are correct. Your method makes sense. I don't ever use lube when neck sizing my 22-250. My 223 is a little more finicky and I believe it does require, as you've stated, a good cleaning on the inside of the neck. The residue left on the inside of the neck seems to create a whole lot more friction. It's weird how I never ran into this problem until now.
 
I've never FL ed my varmint rounds, but I do roll the neck cleaning brush across the lube pad every 1/2 dozen cases. I guess I do it to protect the expander ball and also to reduce bullet pull a bit. Whether there is any need or point in doing it I really don't know. When I started reloading many years ago the reloading manual that I studied [speer] said to do this so it is force of habit now!
 
I think you can get away without lube inside the neck for the smaller calibers with relatively thin case walls and short neck lengths. How much the die reduces the neck daimeter is also a factor. I have Redding dies with the carbide button find little resistance when neck sizing for 260 Rem as long as I use a bushing that does not reduce neck diameter too much. For 308, I lube the inside of all necks (but not the outside). I also, always wipe out the lube from the inside of the neck. I think if you only lube every fifth or sixth case, and do not wipe it clean... neck tension will be different.
 
Lubing inside case necks is strictly to smooth out the expander ball being dragged out of the case after the neck is sized down. If the exp. does drag, it may mean that your case necks are too thick for the ball.
 
case neck

I think i came across this problem today as i lubed to full length size and used dry lube for neck interior seems that resizer got stuck and pulled through lee full length die and now have it stuck in case.Is it possible to pull it and reuse die as die was hard to remove when full length resizing so it seems either neck thickness was an issue or the resizer
 
stuck

You did not say you did or did not but in my opinion running a brush through the neck a few times to make sure it is clean is the most important. I am not sure i understand what you are saying in regards to the die. Ruin the brass to
get the rest of the die out of the cases then just inspect for damage. If its good then keep going. The pressure it takes to pull the expander back through a dirty neck is really, really high compared to a clean neck.
Best of luck to you. As you go along in your reloading and gain expierience
things will get a lot easier. Like "they say" Expierience is what you get just after you needed it.

lannie
 
I use powdered graphite in Redding application media, however I will be switching to the Necos neck moly kit in the near future.

Lubing the neck will result in less work hardening of the neck brass - giving longer service life without annealing. More important for high shot volume target brass as compared to lower volume hunting rounds.
 
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