Neck sizing

Slooshark1

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
90   0   0
I am reloading .375 H&H and I would like to neck size only. I only have the standard full length resizing die and bullet seating die and the factory crimp die.

Can someone please explain in detail how I size only the neck with the die that I have?

Thanks in advance,

Slooshark1
 
I am reloading .375 H&H and I would like to neck size only. I only have the standard full length resizing die and bullet seating die and the factory crimp die.

Can someone please explain in detail how I size only the neck with the die that I have?

Thanks in advance,

Slooshark1

You can't neck only size with a full length die but you can partially size by screwing the die out until the shoulder is not touched. Smoke the case so you can see how much of the neck is worked. Usually about 1 full turn from the normal setting is about right. Depending on how over-sized your chamber is, this might give you a little more case life.
 
Well, you can't do a true neck-size with full-length die.What you can do is size the neck, but the body will be sized somewhat also.

Just back the die out of the press about 1/2 a turn. You are trying to size the neck without touching the shoulder. I find it very helpful to paint the empty case up with a marker while making the adjustment so I can see exactly what is getting sized.

Order a neck-size only die. They are cheap. The above method will tide you over until it arrives.
 
Last edited:
I have never had any luck trying to neck size with a full length die.
When you start sizing the case the shoulder starts to move forward and unless I bump back the shoulder I cannot chamber the cartridge. I have been reloading for 30 years and this happens with all the bottleneck cases I have loaded for. I agree with joe-nwt, order a neck die and be done with all the trial and error.
257Roberts
 
I really like the Lee collet dies, but not for this caliber. I've had no luck with 'em, broke the first and still can't get neck tension on the second. Finally just resigned myself to 'light' full-length sizing, with the RCBS unscrewed slightly. YMMV!
 
Take the center mandrel out and put it in your drill. Spin it up and sand it a bit and try it. Do this slowly in steps. Don't try sanding off a whole bunch at once. Repeat until you like the way the bullet feels going in. I did this with both my 30-30 die and my 300 win mag die. Once you've got it sanded down to just the right size, you won't have to stand on the handle trying to get the right fit.
 
Has anyone found that the tighter fit from not bumping the shoulder back when doing the partial sizing has given them better acuraccy than either neck sizing only or true FL sizing?
 
Yes - I partial resize for several calibres. I originally started doing it for 303 to save the brass, but extended the principal to all cal's as it allowed me to use the same brass for various rifles.
I wouldnt call it neck sizing, more like minimum length resizing, as the case bodies are swaged to meet the tightest chamber. To do this requires a series of trials - start with the FL die in the normal position, back it out 1/4 turn, size one case, check for fit in rifle. Continue backing out until you feel slight interference upon chambering. Record die position for further use. If different brass manufacture is used, trials may need to be redone.
Accuracy is definitely improved with this method over FL sizing, as is case life, and effort to resize the case. Cant comment upon the merits relative to neck sizing.
 
I use a Lee Collet in .375 HH and it works great, bishopus - check the collet isn't stuck closed or is dry or dirty. Blacksmithden's tip is right on too.
 
Slooshark1
How is the partial sizing going?
After reading the posts I would also recommend a Lee collet die.
Are you are concerned about case life or headspace?
Also with belted cases after a few firings I have read that the case body just ahead of the belt will expand to a point that will make the case hard to chamber and there is tools to resize that area alone.
If it is chamber fit that you are concerned about I would recommend that you pick up a set of redding competition shell holders, they work great for me, they will allow you to size the case so that you can use the shoulder rather that the belt of the 375 for your chamber fit.
Let us know how you are making out.
257 Roberts
 
Slooshark1
How is the partial sizing going?
After reading the posts I would also recommend a Lee collet die.
Are you are concerned about case life or headspace?
Also with belted cases after a few firings I have read that the case body just ahead of the belt will expand to a point that will make the case hard to chamber and there is tools to resize that area alone.
If it is chamber fit that you are concerned about I would recommend that you pick up a set of redding competition shell holders, they work great for me, they will allow you to size the case so that you can use the shoulder rather that the belt of the 375 for your chamber fit.
Let us know how you are making out.
257 Roberts

My experience with belted cases (300WM) has been they can be neck sized and periodically full length resized just like any other case. I have some cases that have over a dozen reloads through them, I find the primer pockets loosen up before the rest of the brass gives up. The tools for the area ahead of the belt are a new one for me. Do you have a link to that info?:)
 
I am reloading .375 H&H and I would like to neck size only. I only have the standard full length resizing die and bullet seating die and the factory crimp die.

Can someone please explain in detail how I size only the neck with the die that I have?

Thanks in advance,

Slooshark1

Slooshark1,

You can neck size for the 375 H&H quite successfully using your standard full-length sizing die. This is because of the fairly steep taper on both the body and the shoulder.

Just smoke the neck of a couple of fired cases with a candle flame, and set the die out so that the neck is only sized to a bit above the shoulder. There should be a very distinct black ring left untouched by the die. Do it again with the second case to confirm, lock the sizing die in place and go to work.

Same procedure works great on any steeply tapered case, such as 303 Br and others.

Ted
 
joe-nwt
The links below are some info on belted case reloading.

http://yarchive.net/gun/ammo/belted_magnum.html
http://www.larrywillis.com/

I have only read that this is a problem and not experienced it.
I was getting set up to reload for a 338 WM that I had and then sold off the rifle and equipment when I moved from Northern to Southern Ontario.
257 Roberts


Interesting reading, especially BB's comments on yarchive. Not sure if I agree with all the comments on that page, interesting reading none-the-less.

I've never chanced across this particular problem either, I suspect it might occur more often in a very generously cut chamber.
 
Back
Top Bottom