Need advice on rust bluing

[MBiz]

Hello everyone,
I am preparing a R.A.S. 1906 (later known as Remington M11) for rust bluing. Beside the cosmetic apparence how far is it necessary to remove the small pitting into the metal? Is there a danger that those small rust pits reappear (rusty) after the bluing process or will they be neutralized?
Thank you for your help

 

[wyrhare]

Blast with fine glass beads and apply rust blue solution as soon as possible. wear clean cotton gloves

 

[MBiz]

Thank you Wyrhare,
I am assuming that the fine glass beads blasting will give a mat finish? I think some deep rust pitting may remain but it will be hidden by that "frosty" finish. I am not sure if this will occur thus I am still trying to find a response to my original question! My intention is to achieve a more shiny finish therefore I am going to sand the metal up to 600 grits.
Thank you again for your help

 

[oneadam12]

Couple drops of muriatic acid will burn that out in a hurry if you are real concerned, but I wouldn't go to the trouble. Pit will be there regardless. Don't forget, when you boil rust bluing, you anodize the existing rust. What's in the pits and all.

 

[Mauser98]

By the time the polishing is finished, the pit will probably be gon.

 

[MBiz]

Good evening,
Thank you all for your suggestions! I have one additional question. What grit of glass beads would you recommend?
Salutations

 

[fastex]

Good evening,
Thank you all for your suggestions! I have one additional question. What grit of glass beads would you recommend?
Salutations

Draw file that pit out , sand to 320 grit . If you go much finer the acid will not "grab" the metal and you won't get an even job.

 

[freire]

Draw file that pit out , sand to 320 grit . If you go much finer the acid will not "grab" the metal and you won't get an even job.

I did a rust bluing on a rifle over the weekend and looks real sharp and mirror like with 600 grit

 

[MBiz]

Why don't you post a picture? It will be nice to see that!

 

[fastex]

I did a rust bluing on a rifle over the weekend and looks real sharp and mirror like with 600 grit

What are you using for solution? I've not had much luck going to a 600 polish . I am using a "Niedner" solution which gives a very nice colour , just can't seem to get it to work well on a high polish job.

 

[Mauser98]

What are you using for solution? I've not had much luck going to a 600 polish . I am using a "Niedner" solution which gives a very nice colour , just can't seem to get it to work well on a high polish job.

I rarely go to a 600 polish. Usually stop at 320- 400 max. After I'm done with the paper, I give the metal a good scrubbing with a 3M Scotch-Brite ultra fine pad. This has the effect of blending the polishing so that it is very consistent over the whole piece.

I use a damp box with the temp around 90C and humidy around 85%. Initially, I'll coat the parts and let them rust for about an hour the recoat and let rust for another two hours. During the whole process I never let the pieces rust for more than 2.5-3 hours between boils. These short cycles make for a finer rust and prevents pitting.

My chemical of choice is called Gun Goddess from the Halfmoon Rifle Shop in Columbia Fall, Montana. He won't ship across the border.

I also like Barrel Brown and Degreaser from Laurel Mountain Forge. Brownells will ship this product to Canada by regular mail.

 

[fastex]

I rarely go to a 600 polish. Usually stop at 320- 400 max. After I'm done with the paper, I give the metal a good scrubbing with a 3M Scotch-Brite ultra fine pad. This has the effect of blending the polishing so that it is very consistent over the whole piece.

I use a damp box with the temp around 90C and humidy around 85%. Initially, I'll coat the parts and let them rust for about an hour the recoat and let rust for another two hours. During the whole process I never let the pieces rust for more than 2.5-3 hours between boils. These short cycles make for a finer rust and prevents pitting.

My chemical of choice is called Gun Goddess from the Halfmoon Rifle Shop in Columbia Fall, Montana. He won't ship across the border.





I also like Barrel Brown and Degreaser from Laurel Mountain Forge. Brownells will ship this product to Canada by regular mail.

I've used the Barrel Brown but have started making my own using the Niedner formula which I like better. My procedure pretty well follows yours except I have never tried the Scotch Brite . I'll pick some up and give it a try , thanks ! Usually I rust for 6-8 hours between boiling . By boiling every 3 hours , how many times do you do this to get your colour?

 

[Mauser98]

I've used the Barrel Brown but have started making my own using the Niedner formula which I like better. My procedure pretty well follows yours except I have never tried the Scotch Brite . I'll pick some up and give it a try , thanks ! Usually I rust for 6-8 hours between boiling . By boiling every 3 hours , how many times do you do this to get your colour?

By recoating after one hour then rusting for another two, I have had nearly complete coverage after only one cycle - depending on type of steel. Most of my jobs are done after four cycles.

The maker of Gun Goddess includes an instruction booklet with his product. In it, he recommends 2-4 hrs with a damp box and 6-8 hrs without a box.

 

[freire]

What are you using for solution? I've not had much luck going to a 600 polish . I am using a "Niedner" solution which gives a very nice colour , just can't seem to get it to work well on a high polish job.

I use a product called Radocy rust bluing ,Google it and you will See how easy it is to work with .