I don't need 40MOA. My question was, can I still zero at 100 yrds. I got my eyes on two scope mounts and they are both 20MOA.
How far am I shooting? not far, I'm still collecting the parts.
Ok, looks like it's a no-go. I'll wait and buy a 0MOA mount.
Thanks
Wow... these guys can be vicious... The answer to your simple question is yes (most likely, depending a little on the tolerances that your set up were built to).
The math: Your scope has 29 mils of internal travel. Which comes to 98 (ish) moa. So more than 45/45 up/down. So you should have more than 5 minutes to deal with any tolerance issues (and I haven't accounted for your particular sight height. But that itself is only a factor at 100 to 200 m... and it's only a minute or two.
As far as the... I don't even know how to put it... "moral" reasons of installing a 40 moa base? Or trying to avoid looking "tacti-cool"... or not trying to look like too much of a poser at the range? I guess? (really guys, come on, give some actual reasons behind the "help" that you give).
This is the best line that has been said so far.
Zeroing is fine at 100. Doesn't matter how far you intend to shoot. I have never understood why guys feel the need to zero a dialing turreted optic at 2-300 yards when they could zero at 100.I would get it if they couldnt get the windage adjustment or get low enough elevation wise due to their set up, but your optic will end up in the same range internally regardless of the distance you zero at, 100 is an easier conformation and easy to spot your own bullet holes to slip your scales for a day of shooting. just my opinion.
"Zeroing" a rifle doesn't change the outside geometry of your rifle. It's not like you're doing that work to get your reticle on target at some distance then pressing a magic zero button that then centers your erector in the tube of the scope while keeping the reticle on target. No, no matter what you do to the aesthetics of your turrets (that's all that taking the caps off does) your mechanism will be in the same spot.
Now there are other relevant factors... Maybe the 40 base will raise your eye box too high for you to get a comfortable cheek weld? Another often overlooked factor is that you always want to be using the center of your glass for your most frequent shots. All lenses have some form of distortion, and the center of the lens is where you're going to have the most crisp, clear and true picture. To that extent... maybe you don't ever plan on using a full 80 moa for a shot. But even if you're going to go as far as needing 30 - 50 moa... well then, the 40 moa base will mean you'll be using the center of your glass for those shots.
So yes, it's a decision... but don't listen to anyone that's going to call you tacti-cool.