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migrant hunter

migrant hunter

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All I wanted was a full wood no 4 shooter that would shoot cast. My no 4 mk 1 mongrel/full wood that I built from a sporter, using various sources for parts, did'nt like cast and has a large two groove bore. It will shoot jacketed.
So I picked up a mk 2 sporter on the EE, it just arrived today. In my ignorance, I thought I could just swap the wood over, and sell the first one as a sporter/restoration project. It turns out the wood is different at the trigger. The mk 2 has a screw that comes out to clear the trigger, which is hung from the action, unlike the mk 1 which has wood where the screw would be on the mk 2, and the trigger comes off with the bottom metal. First impressions are that the bore is smaller on the mk 2, I'm just going to shoot some unsized .314's out of it when I get a chance.
If the mk 2 will shoot my cast boolits, can I just cut the wood on the forend to clear the trigger ? None of the gun will be matching or original anyway.
I don't want to hear about beagling, molds etc. I just want to hear what you think about cutting the wood out to clear the trigger and replacing it with a bolt, basically converting the wood to a mk 2. It will still need bedding etc. Thoughts?
 
Paragraphs would make this post easier to read.
You wouldn't be removing enough wood to matter.
You still need to check the headspace then slug the bore. Those .314" bullets may be the wrong diameter.
 
Yes it can be cut but i wouldnt recommend it. The mrk 2 is the updated mrk 1. The forend would is a little harder to come by for the mrk 2 with the bolt. If anything I would suggest offering it on the EE for trade for a mrk 1 forend.
 
Sorry, I was trying to type on a laptop with Spongebob cranked up and a 2 yr old trying to poke things into the furnace.
I have a full length mk 1 forend, a sporterised mk 1 forend and a sporterised mk 2 forend. I'm trying to put a full length mk 1 forend on a mk 2 rifle. I have seen videos on Youtube where guys replaced the little block of wood on a mk 1 forend when it was cracked or shrunk, so It could be replaced if it did'nt work in a mk 2.
Sunray, I have'nt had a chance to check headspace yet, but the bolt head does'nt turn much past the 12 oclock position and I have 3 or 4 spares I can swap it around with if I have to.
 
A lot of Mk1 forends were modified when rifles were converted to Mk2 standard ie the Mk1/2 & Mk1/3, i would look for examples of such & try to copy it, sorry cant be of any more help as i dont have an example but thats what i would do.
 
I had a chance to look at it all tonight, turns out the mk1 and mk2 are almost the same. The gap on the mk2 stock to allow it to slide past the trigger is a removable block on the mk1 stock, no sawing req'd. There's a (brass?) pin through the mk 1 stock and a screw through the mk2. I removed the pin from my mk1 full wood, pretty sure I can replace it with the screw from the mk2 sporter I have.
I know it's heresy and I'm making a frankenstein, but they were both sporters and none of this stuff matches anyway. The mk2 sporter shot 1 1/2" group at 100yds with 200 gr cast on saturday. If I can have a full wood no4 to shoot, I don't care if it's not matching.
 
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