Need help with butt stock removal on old double hammer SxS

[Mount Sweetness]

Please see attached picture.

I'm not exactly sure how to remove the butt stock on my Grandfather's old 16ga SxS - American Gun Co., circa 1908..
It is all cracked up at the wrist in atleast 3 places.

I have both the top and bottom tang screws out.
I am also able to remove the one small screw on the side plate, where there is a cluster of 3 fasteners....1 screw and two pins.

Do I need to punch those other two pins out?
I don't want to attempt that if it isn't needed, I have thought they may be related to the trigger assembly but am unsure, better to ask first.

Can I get some tips how to remove this butt stock so I can attempt a repair?
Thanks

 

[oldstarfire]

First, take out the screw on the left side, then pull off the two locks ( right and left side). They are slightly hooked at the front end so they swing out at the rear to come free. The "pins" are screws so do NOT punch them out.

Then remove the screw that is under the top lever, and one at the front of the trigger guard.
Remove the trigger guard and the stock should come off.

 

[Mount Sweetness]

You were spot on Oldstarfire!

Now I need to figure what is the best glue to use on this stock and if/how I should reinforce it with dowels or pins.
The wood is oily so do I need to prep that first.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[VictoryXC]

There is an earlier thread (last post was on December 20th) that discussed various glues to use. Another good resource is doublegunshop.com website. Depending on the type of cracks, you may be able to use "staples" from the inside so the repair is not visible. I have used ZAP CA glue plus staples on hairline cracks with excellent results. Post some pictures of your progress.

 

[oldstarfire]

Soak the wood in acetone to draw out the soaked in oil.
I like to use epoxy for that type of repair.
Lots of info on the net as to how to a hidden repair.

 

[Mount Sweetness]

I found the glue thread, thanks. Now I will see if we have ZaP glue available locally.
I'll take my time with this one and make sure it is done right, should take a few days.

On a side note......now I need to find some 2.5" 16 ga rounds.....
Where do you find them?

The chamber measures around 2.6"

 

[dakotamar]

are they damascus barrels? you can use brass shells and load for BP

 

[Mount Sweetness]

Genuine armoury steel barrels

2 3/4" shells slide in fine
Chamber length is not specified on the gun.
The gun was made around 1908-1910
I get an approx chamber measurement of 2.62"
I measured a few spent 2 3/4" 20ga hulls and they measure from 2.6" to 2.69".
I'm really not positive on the chamber length.

 

[Mount Sweetness]

Update

One final crack gluing in the vice right now and I'll have it back together tomorrow night.
I used Elmer's ProBond Max on the main crack. I added a #4 x 1" screw hidden under each tang, predrilled the holes and filled half way with Gorilla Glue.
So far, so good.

 

[marshall]

You have a chamber for 2.5 in , not 2 3/4 in, you have to remeber the crimp takes up 1/4"
If you shoot modern shells the crimp will open up on the barrel, not the chamber

 

[Mount Sweetness]

That's what I figured, I am searching for a box of 2.5" now...if anyone has a few to spare

 

[art.h]

Try Epps in Orillia, they used to have 16 in BP.

 

[sbound]

It's actually a 2 9/16" chamber in all likelihood.

I had Nick Makinson in Komoka, ON open up a 2 9/16" chamber to 2 3/4". I don't recall that it was a particularly involved job, and he had the reamer/tooling to do it.