Need help with Parkerizing Solution Formula (Recipe)

XXXXX

XXXXX

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OKAY!

I've sandblasted my SKS and HP9-1 Shotgun and I am ready to parkerize it, after preparing the surfaces (clean, no oil, dust, finger prints, etc).

I've located Phosporic Acid (4L) and Zinc Oxide (1Kg). I've also located Manganese Dioxide, but I think I'll stick with the Zinc.

Does anyone know the ratio I need to mix them?

Thanks in advance!

-###XX

(Dependent on price, I may purchase a kit... I'm waiting on pricing info)
 
Sorry,not a chemist.I use pre-made kits. Remember that steel will begin to oxidize immediately.If you wait too long you will need to re-sandblast to activate the surface for park to work properly.I make sure my parts are in solution no more than 1 hr after blasting.
 
Tell me more about parkerizing Mr Sunray

I've actually re-parkerized (not internet re-parkerized) some 20 rifles,mostly M1 Garands, over the past several years using manufacturer's kits based on both the manganese and zinc parkerizing compounds. Now every vendor,as well as every knowledgeable person I've ever discussed the topic with,recommends that steel surfaces must be sand/grit/glass blasted in order to clean them and remove oxidization so that there is an active steel surface for the acid based parkerizing solution to react with. Parkerizing is not a coating.It is a process where the acid based parkerizing solution(phosphoric acid) actually reacts with the steel surface.Now I must admit that I've never ignored the directions and attempted to achieve a satisfactory result without preparatory surface blasting,but why would I in the face of my own experience and the manufacturer's directions. I only wish it were true as I find the blasting process very messy and uncomfortable on a hot summer day. I would also add that I have had first hand experience with the Canadian Forces depot level small arms overhaul process at 202 Wksp Montreal which employed parkerizing as the standard method of weapons refinishing.And guess what,they blasted the pieces immediately after degreasing them and before immersing them in the parkerizing tank!!! In the interests of sparing people a lot of aggravation and waste of time and money,I would ask that you stop advising that a satisfactory parkerizing job can be achieved without blasting. Yes,I've seen the Culver story on home-baked parkerizing too,but why mess with that when satisfactory and predictable results can be gotten from using any of the commercially available kits.
 
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