Need some help with a old weaver 22 scope

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I was out shooting my old Cooey Ranger the other day and l had to move the reticle so far over to the left that it just plain looks silly. I thought there might be a way to center it. Can someone tell me what this screw is for ? How do l get it centered, shim on the bottom mount ? Any help is appreciated
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I suspect that screw is one of the ones holding the saddle in place.
You are probably going to have to do some shimming.
 
the early weaver scopes did move the reticle in the tube when sighting so the scope is working properly.So shimming the base is the only way to correct the delima ,,still have a 10x that moves the reticle in the tube
 
Not certain, but from you picture looks like the flat metal side mount? Easily bended? Like if scope or "rings" get a smack on their left side, the whole thing easily bends to the right? With the Cooey-Winchesters, there were four screws into the side of the receiver. Loosen them and insert shim above the screws to tilt that side mount base to the left - that should require you to move cross hairs to the right to be sighted in. Or, if you have more guts than I do, remove scope, and bend the mount back to "straight"...

As far as your red circled screw - there were some Weaver mounts, back in the day, that had nearly complete "rings", and you had to completely remove the scope adjusting saddles to insert that scope into those rings, then re-install those saddles. Of course, those were not "sealed" scopes. Used to know, but have forgot the exact part numbers of those bases - N1 ?, N3 ?? something like that...
 
I figured l would have to shim. I thought about trying to bend the mount but it looks pretty sturdy. I might just loosen off that screw to see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions
 
got to go said:
I figured l would have to shim. I thought about trying to bend the mount but it looks pretty sturdy. I might just loosen off that screw to see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions
Click to expand...

Don't loosen off that screw... it holds something inside the tube... Bend the mount so the scope is pointing down the center of the barrel...
 
I am going back into the memory bank in excess of 65 years. On the Weaver B4 and B6 scopes, I think that screw and the one in front hold the adjustment mechanism to the tube. If you loosened both screws, you can move the adjustment mechanism fore and aft a fraction of an inch to eliminate, or at least reduce, parallax error in the scope.
 
I would leave the screws alone they hold the turrets on. Shimming them or adjusting them will only screw up your parallax. A picture off how the scope is mounted to your rifle would be better that's where I would guess the problem is.
 
Leave the scope on the gun, mount the gun in a padded vice, take the bolt out and bore sight on a target, or a sticky note on the wall, than see where the scope looks.
Than play with the mount. If you are brave, you could mess with that screw,LOL. , Play with the mount first, check rings as well
those side mount holes should have enough play to tilt the mount up, if that is what you need.
 
Thinking about your issue, and comments above - the misalignment that you are experiencing could also be due to just the front or just the rear being "bent out of shape" - I was thinking yesterday about bending that scope mount like a hinge, but nothing saying it can not also be "twisted" - say, front ring only too far to the right. I have an acquaintance who has an old school 1" body scope with cross hairs fixed perfectly in the centre of the field - he uses it to adjust his one-of-a-kind bases and rings - as poster #12 describes - aligning bore with dot or vertical line on wall, check where scope is looking, then adjust the bases or rings to get the barrel and scope looking at the same point, or at least vertical to each other. Uses minimal amount of internal adjustment when the "real" scope gets mounted.
 
I resurrected a period 22 a few years ago and wanted to use a Weaver 22 scope. I searched and found a few web sites with good info.

These old scopes were not sealed, or nitrogen filled. They were meant to take apart and if necessary the lens's could be taken apart and re-glued, with Balsam. There are new low refractive index glues available. I was able to use parts from some other scopes to get 1 that seemed good. The cross hairs are delicate, be careful.

Repairing these is a lost art. Parts swapping is best amongst like models. I tried swapping a few parts between different models, but didn't have too much success there.

I have a G4 and a more recent plastic turret Weaver in a drawer, if you need parts or ??? PM me.

Rimfire Central has a few scope refurb posts.
 
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Bend the damn thing and get on with your life.

Probably the best thing to remember is that folks were expected to have a decent amount of practical do-it-yourself knowledge by the time they got out of school, even if they only ever made it through Grade 5 or 6.

Center the scope, off the mounts. set the scope body on a set of vee blocks where you can look through without moving the scope. adjust towards center, rotate the scope 180 degrees, see if it stays on the aiming point. Repeat for the other axis.

Mount up the scope and probaly the best place to start would be a boresighter of one form or another, but a couple notches in a cardboard box, and peering through the bore and comparing to the sight picture will go a long ways towards getting the mounts aligned.

Do try to remember that they are stamped steel, essentially the cheapest crap that they could get away with selling. Not Magic, or "Best left to the Professionals".
 
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