Need Tikka advice.

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Ok so after reading nothing but good things about the Tikka T3 I've gone and bought one in .243. The plan for the beginning has been to rebarrel it with a fast twist 22-250 but thats a ways off.

So far my opinion of the rifle is very poor. I thought I could get over all the plastic for a while as long as it shot like most internet reports. The problem however is it does not. I've tried a bunch of different bullets and about four powders, my brass is weight sorted to 1gr and well prepped. I've also tried some factory stuff I had sitting around. The factory stuff shoots 5" groups! Not kidding. My handloads have things down to around 1 1/2".

As soon as I got it home I took it out of the stock to have a look at everything and this rifle has a factory pressure point about 3-4" ahead of the chamber, is this normal? I've been thinking about removing it but I don't really want to make it any worse. I've also read something about getting the recoil lug set wrong, I don't know how, seems pretty straight forward.

Anyway, not really new to this stuff but with the weird recoil lug and the strange pressure point I figured some on here might know what's going on.
 
Mine has the pressure point about 3" from chamber too . That's bad luck with the tikka . Did you shoot it before you took the stock off ? I haven't taken mine off so don't know the torque needed but I've read they can be torque sensitive UNTILL bedded. I usually bed mine but I have two ctr models that shoot so good I haven't bothered. Good luck
 
Mine will shoot the very first group of the day. After that you better wait for it to be COLD or groups are huge. I have a 7mm-08. I am not impressed with it either and can't wait to get this crap barrel off of the gun. If I didn't have the money I do into the gun It would have been for sale a few days after I got it.
 
Talk to Stoeger. I think Tikka has an accuracy guarantee.

When the action is "set" properly over the recoil lug, the gas relief holes on the sides of the receiver will just touch the stock. It is a bugger to get set in there.
 
It is possible to assemble the rifle with the recoil lug out of position, but if a person pays attention, it should not happen. I have loaded for five heavy barreled T-3s and all shot sub 1/2moa, and the two sporter weight rifles shot under moa. I have found the T-3s to be among the least fussy rifles that I have loaded for.
 
I keep hearing Tikka this and Tikka that, sort of like it is the only rifle to buy.
Yet now I hear an honest evaluation about too much plastic and poor accuracy.

OP, could you detail just what is made of plastic on these rifles? I'm sure that many others would like to know?
Some pictures?
 
I keep hearing Tikka this and Tikka that, sort of like it is the only rifle to buy.
Yet now I hear an honest evaluation about too much plastic and poor accuracy.

OP, could you detail just what is made of plastic on these rifles? I'm sure that many others would like to know?
Some pictures?

I too heard that tikka was the only way to go. I have 2 model 70's and a custom salvage. Gf has a vanguard s2 and a m70.
I took the dive and bought a tikka even though the bolt shroud, stock, bottom "metal" and stock are plastic. The mags are way to short to even think about getting close to the lands. Some factor ammo is only a few thousands short enough to fit in the mag.
Should have just stuck with what I know and bought a m70 or a vanguard(for less money) but instead I pressed on and got a metal bolt shroud, b&c medalist stock, long action mag($85) and modified the bolt stop.
 
Mine will shoot the very first group of the day. After that you better wait for it to be COLD or groups are huge. I have a 7mm-08. I am not impressed with it either and can't wait to get this crap barrel off of the gun. If I didn't have the money I do into the gun It would have been for sale a few days after I got it.

After owning a few, reading everything I could and shooting several... I feel like I would have to agree with the barrel diagnosis.
Cold shot = decent POI but after that it turns to garbage. More so than any other factory barrel I've shot. The heavy barrels would be a different story, I'm talking the sporter style on the T3's.
They have their purpose I guess. Light weight and seem to point very well. But ive had accuracy issues and feeding issues with them. Ill never own another.
 
After owning a few, reading everything I could and shooting several... I feel like I would have to agree with the barrel diagnosis.
Cold shot = decent POI but after that it turns to garbage. More so than any other factory barrel I've shot. Ill never own another.

Yup. I have a m70 supergrade in 7mm-08 and it still shoots great when warm. Can easily put 8 rounds down range and not have them open up much at all. I have a t3 lite and it is no longer lite as its over 8 pounds.
Still on the fence about keeping it around or upgrading to a $500 vanguard or just splurge on another Winchester.
 
I've had 3 different rifles and never had an issue. That being said I do normally let my barrel cool in between 5 shot groups until it's not hot to the touch. All 3 were well under MOA with the best (6.5x55) being under half MOA consistently. Haven't had any feeding issues either. I recommend tikkas often to other shooters, but I guess YMMV.
 
SgYCF0d.jpg
Mine are CTR models which have a med/heavy barrel (both have made the 300yd challenge ) , the mags and bottom METAL are METAL. I do hope to change the stock but the 308 made the challenge with a Harris bipod so doesn't flex much. I do find them easy to load for just about everything gets around 1" or better and have a couple that will shoot bug holes at 100 . The last one I did with my 260 at 300 yds (yesterday ) 8 out of the 10 were 1/2 MOA and I'm not a special shot or do I use special equipment ( Harris and tire tube sand bags) all rifles I have with a thin skin barrel start spreading shots when they heat up (I think it's a given) the t3 lites mean lite ( I've always wondered why guys would want super lite rifles , I'll pack an extra lb. for accuracy and recoil any day )I also don't weigh my pack or gear to the ounce ( I think that stuff is for the high end extremist guys which we all dream of being )
So while guys will jump on trashing and arguing, this is as close as I get .
Op let us know how things go with torquing your screws. All brands have lemons , hope you didn't get one
KJ
 
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Yeah I hear you Keithjohn, but he isn't talking the medium/heavy barrels. These threads usually turn ugly/defensive. That wont help the OP (I'm guilty already)
All I can say is My vanguards, M700s, M70s and and Savages with sporter barrels never opened up as much as my Tikkas did. Stock heavy profiled barrels are a different game.
I also played around with torque lbs and still couldn't get a decent 5 shot group. Just my experience.
 
tikka/sako are guaranteed under MOA outta the box send it back

Anybody ever tried this ? What was your experience?

I've had 4 Sako 75 models and one 308 wouldn't get better than 1.5" groups some loads were up to 3" . Very disappointing, then I found the magic load out of at least 10 bullet/powder combos that would do consistent sub MOA . I did sell that one with full disclosure , it's disappointing but it happens with the best of them . Keep trying , it's got to be more fun than dealing with warranty
IMO because I've never tried waranty with a gun ( don't think Sako gave a guarantee back when )
 
Thanks for the responses guys, interesting feedback for sure.

I checked the gas port, it's just touching the stock. And thats crappy to hear the pressure point actually helps these things. Guess maybe I just got an average to poor barrel.

Has anybody actually sent any rifle back on the moa guarantee? I always thought those guarantees were just marketing gimmicks as almost all bolt action rifles will shoot three shots sub moa...if you wait long enough. This ones no different, in fact my smallest group so far was .255" to some this probably makes it a sub half moa rifle and they'd rave all over the internet, but being honest it's a 1.2-1.5" all day rifle.
 
SgYCF0d.jpg
Mine are CTR models which have a med/heavy barrel (both have made the 300yd challenge ) , the mags and bottom METAL are METAL. I do hope to change the stock but the 308 made the challenge with a Harris bipod so doesn't flex much. I do find them easy to load for just about everything gets around 1" or better and have a couple that will shoot bug holes at 100 . The last one I did with my 260 at 300 yds (yesterday ) 8 out of the 10 were 1/2 MOA and I'm not a special shot or do I use special equipment ( Harris and tire tube sand bags) all rifles I have with a thin skin barrel start spreading shots when they heat up (I think it's a given) the t3 lites mean lite ( I've always wondered why guys would want super lite rifles , I'll pack an extra lb. for accuracy and recoil any day )I also don't weigh my pack or gear to the ounce ( I think that stuff is for the high end extremist guys which we all dream of being )
So while guys will jump on trashing and arguing, this is as close as I get .
Op let us know how things go with torquing your screws. All brands have lemons , hope you didn't get one
KJ


How much torque do these things like? I took it off using a torque driver...it read about 18 inlbs when the broke loose, so I put them on with about 25 inlbs.

Good to hear your heavy barrels shoot, they are a lot less finicky for sure. What 300y challenge did your rifles meet?
 
That sucks that you aren't getting what you want out of it. I've had at least 5 T3s in various calibers and I honestly couldn't be happier. The plastic is very high quality compared to the Hogue stocks and other out there. Try to find a wood stock on the EE or get a Boyd's stock if you like the rifle but not the plastic.
 
Thanks for the responses guys, interesting feedback for sure.

I checked the gas port, it's just touching the stock. And thats crappy to hear the pressure point actually helps these things. Guess maybe I just got an average to poor barrel.

Has anybody actually sent any rifle back on the moa guarantee? I always thought those guarantees were just marketing gimmicks as almost all bolt action rifles will shoot three shots sub moa...if you wait long enough. This ones no different, in fact my smallest group so far was .255" to some this probably makes it a sub half moa rifle and they'd rave all over the internet, but being honest it's a 1.2-1.5" all day rifle.

Isn't that like being concerned your advertised 14mpg truck is getting 13mpg?

If it's a 1.2-1.5" all day rifle, and when you cool it down you've shot it @ 1/4"......... then it sounds like you have a finicky but perfectly fine rifle that would benefit from some handload tuning and a little more patience.

The spec for stock/action torque is 25-30 in/lbs.
 
I too heard that tikka was the only way to go. I have 2 model 70's and a custom salvage. Gf has a vanguard s2 and a m70.
I took the dive and bought a tikka even though the bolt shroud, stock, bottom "metal" and stock are plastic. The mags are way to short to even think about getting close to the lands. Some factor ammo is only a few thousands short enough to fit in the mag.
Should have just stuck with what I know and bought a m70 or a vanguard(for less money) but instead I pressed on and got a metal bolt shroud, b&c medalist stock, long action mag($85) and modified the bolt stop.

I think Tika is the most overrated and overpriced rifle on the market. Not saying they r junk, just a little too high on the pedestal for what u get.

Went moose hunting last fall with with 3 others, 2 of which had new Tikas (300 WM), both had magazine/feeding issues and one had the wood fore stock not centered on the barrel and actually touching it.

Both rifles were one owner new from WSS, and about 2 boxes of ammo through them. I think there mags are garbage.
 
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