new 600 JR is set up!

catnthehatt

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Finally got the new 600JR set up for loading 28 gauge.
I bopught this little machine so I wouldn't have to mess around fiinding parts for my Lyman loader.
I used a 700 when I was your and a Posness Warren, so was a bit unnerved at all the parts made of Zytell, etc on the 600, but they adjust well, and make super good lookin' ammo!

I've only loaded AAHS hulls and wads so far, but am going to try some Remington wads today to check them out.
I think the load I have (out of Hodgdon's book) will be fine however, as it is low pressured and still 1,200FPS.
The acid test ( pattern board and ruffys!) will tel the tale.
I was quite surprised at the cost increase of 28's over 20's or 12's for factory, that is why I am handloading, otherwise I'd just shoot factory ammo.
My 12 gauge loader has sat idle for many years because I get into our club's group buy for our trap and skeet 12's, but plan next year to shoot only the 28 for skeet.

Anybody else loading a lot of 28's, or do you buy factory amo?
Between Oldbadger and myself both shooting 28's I think I can keep the cost down a tad
Cat
 
I lucked into a 28 gauge MEC 600 Jr for a very low price because it was missing a primer cup and bottles but I had the needed parts from an old 12 gauge 600 that I wasn't using. I just about covered the cost of the loader with my first flat of shells and was into the black on my second flat. :D

The 28 is my favourite gauge and there are definite cost savings if you reload. I've been thinking about upgrading to a MEC 9000 in 28 but the 600 grinds them out just fine.

The only problem I've had is that the shot getting stuck in the drop tube. I have to listen to make sure the shot falls otherwise it bounces all over the loading bench. :redface:

I'm loading AAHS with Unique, Winchester 209 primers and either AAHS wads or replacement wads from Claybuster. The AAHS hulls are very good but older lots were shorter than the current production and didn't load as well. Winchester recently went back to the same length as the old AA hull and they work with either the AAHS or older AA wads. Info posted on another site suggested that an "X" or "Y" in the lot number means they are the longer hull.

Avoid Federal Gold Medal hulls. I had serious problems with them.
 
I
The only problem I've had is that the shot getting stuck in the drop tube. I have to listen to make sure the shot falls otherwise it bounces all over the loading bench. :redface:

YOU TOO??!!:eek:
Great, I thought it was something I screwed up on!

Never had that problem with the 700's, or my Lyman easy.
That being said, it's a great loader for the money, and I agree , the 28 has become my favorite gauge for both skeet and grouse!:)
I am loading mine with Longshot because I ccan get it in bulk easy, and there are a lot of different loads I can use.

Cat
 
Have either of you 2 removed your shot drop tube and looked inside it? If not....you may be very surprised at what you see in there.

I had that shot bridging problem with my 28 ga Sizemaster. Removed that tube and discovered that it was extremely rough inside. Took a little time and effort but I cleaned it up and smoothed it out with a rat tail file. Ream the bottom end of it as well to remove any burrs that might be there.

Never had another shot bridging problem with it.

Good luck.
 
Have either of you 2 removed your shot drop tube and looked inside it? If not....you may be very surprised at what you see in there.

I had that shot bridging problem with my 28 ga Sizemaster. Removed that tube and discovered that it was extremely rough inside. Took a little time and effort but I cleaned it up and smoothed it out with a rat tail file. Ream the bottom end of it as well to remove any burrs that might be there.

Never had another shot bridging problem with it.

Good luck.

Gonna try that.
The loads I checked today are really smokin' birds, so I'm not about to change anything !:D
Cat
 
Gents:

Neera & Scar270 nailed it !

Hack-sawed a 2" slot down into the end of an old piece of aluminum cleaning rod to make a mandrel ( that's all those damn things are good for anyway ! ) Use emery paper roll abrasive ... slip one end into the slot and wrap around the rod until you get a barely snug fit) Chuck the other end of the rod-section into your drill ( I use a cable drive 15,000 rpm Foredom tool ) and polish away with progressively finer grit abrasives ... finish up with some 600 grit wet/dry - used wet ... the inside of the drop tube will be shining like a mirror ! Don't forget to dry the tube & clean-out and abrasive residue remaining after the .

First ran into the same problem about a dozen or so years ago with a
MEC 9000G. The polishing solved the "sticky shot" problem entirely.
 
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