Just thought I'd share this with my fellow CGN'ers. There's a product called MitreBond which is a modified cyanoacrylate, 2 part system. Though it's outstanding on wood repair, such as cracked or broken stocks, it will stick disparate materials (wood to steel, steel to glass, etc.). What would you say if I told you that you could do a stock repair in 15 min.? The way this stuff works is you put a very light bead of adhesive on one surface. If you're not in a rush, you need only clamp for 10 min., as opposed to your standard wood glue (casien glue) which needs 1/2 hr. under pressure, and 12 hr. cure time. This stuff cures FULLY in 15 min. If you're in a hurry, you put a light bead on one surface, and spray the other with an accelerator. Hold the 2 parts together for 10-15 sec, wait 15 min. and your're done. Down side is that once the 2 pieces make contact, you only have about 2 sec. to change your mind so you dry fit everything. Since you only need a light application, you should never have a problem with the product oozing out of the joint. This stuff doesn't dissolve like wood glue will with water, so the only way to remove excess is with a cabinet scraper, or sand it off. You can fix a broken stock, attach a knocked off steel part, or do other emergency repairs in seconds. It's waterproof, so liquid immersion isn't a problem. Before you ask, I have no stake in this stuff. We just sell it at work to the trim carpenters and woodworking trade. As soon as I saw this stuff in action, I bought some for my own place, and it's awesome. I repaired a broken table leg in 15 min. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Have a good day all!
New Adhesive out there!
- Thread starter LawrenceN
- Start date
Hey Gunstock! We sell it at work (Brenlo Ltd. Custom Wood Moulding) in Etobicoke (north west GTA), or you could do a web search for MitreBond, and see if there's a retailer nearer to you. We sell the glue&spray kit for $29.95, but if you were coming to the GTA, I could buy it under my employee discount and get it for $20 or $21., I'd have to check out how much it costs me. I could meet up with you after work and pass it along, and save you a couple of bucks.
This isn't anything new to model builders and while this product may come as a kit you can buy the accelerator that will work on any of the CA glues separately.
Hit up a hobby shop in your area that deals with radio control airplanes or boats or model railroad equipment and you'll find an assortment of CA glues from watery thin to thick like cold honey and on the same shelf will be spritzer bottles of accelerator. The accellerator can be appllied to the other side as mentioned by Lawrence or you can close the joint and THEN apply a spritz of accelerator to the external line and the kicking off effect will conduct down through the joint for quite a ways in.
For those that don't know about it there's watery thin CA that will wick into a very tight crack and then kick off. The watery formula also kicks off naturally much faster in literally seconds without the need for accelerator. But the joint has to be perfect to use this formula. There's also medium viscosity that is usefull for gaps up to around the thickness of a piece of paper or a little more with accelerator. Finaly there's the thick variety that can be used with the accelerator for gaps up to around 1/32 inch.
While the thicker formula will fill a gap even larger with the accelerator used to kick it this is not really recomended since cured CA is quite brittle and on its own is not as strong as most of the materials you can use it on. As always you want to have a decently tight joint before gluing.
The watery stuff is so good at penetrating that it has often travelled through the pores of the balsa wood I use for model building and stuck me to the project.
Oh, and for those "Oh damn, not again" moments they also sell a debonder....
The boss at work glued himself to my workbench one time. After I stopped laughing I suggested using a razor knife to slice his digit loose and just live with no finger prints for a few days. He didn't like that so option two was to spray some window cleaner on the joint and sit there for 5'ish minutes working the joint until the soapy moisture and skin oils broke the bond. I chuckled for days about this one......
One last hint for folks new to CA glue. It has a shelf life of up to around a year once opened. So don't buy a big bottle if you only use it occasionally for small jobs or you'll end up throwing most of it away. Before it's opened you can store it in the freezer and it'll keep for years but once opened do not put it back in the freezer. The glue self kicks from moisture and temperature cycling it will form condensation in the bottle which will kill it quicker. If you need a regular supply but don't use lots of it just buy more smaller bottles so you can put the spares in the freezer. And when you take them out let the bottle warm up fully to room temp before cutting the end of the nozzle to open it. Otherwise it'll suck in the air moisture and again that'll contaminate the glue slightly.
Hit up a hobby shop in your area that deals with radio control airplanes or boats or model railroad equipment and you'll find an assortment of CA glues from watery thin to thick like cold honey and on the same shelf will be spritzer bottles of accelerator. The accellerator can be appllied to the other side as mentioned by Lawrence or you can close the joint and THEN apply a spritz of accelerator to the external line and the kicking off effect will conduct down through the joint for quite a ways in.
For those that don't know about it there's watery thin CA that will wick into a very tight crack and then kick off. The watery formula also kicks off naturally much faster in literally seconds without the need for accelerator. But the joint has to be perfect to use this formula. There's also medium viscosity that is usefull for gaps up to around the thickness of a piece of paper or a little more with accelerator. Finaly there's the thick variety that can be used with the accelerator for gaps up to around 1/32 inch.
While the thicker formula will fill a gap even larger with the accelerator used to kick it this is not really recomended since cured CA is quite brittle and on its own is not as strong as most of the materials you can use it on. As always you want to have a decently tight joint before gluing.
The watery stuff is so good at penetrating that it has often travelled through the pores of the balsa wood I use for model building and stuck me to the project.
Oh, and for those "Oh damn, not again" moments they also sell a debonder....
The boss at work glued himself to my workbench one time. After I stopped laughing I suggested using a razor knife to slice his digit loose and just live with no finger prints for a few days. He didn't like that so option two was to spray some window cleaner on the joint and sit there for 5'ish minutes working the joint until the soapy moisture and skin oils broke the bond. I chuckled for days about this one...... One last hint for folks new to CA glue. It has a shelf life of up to around a year once opened. So don't buy a big bottle if you only use it occasionally for small jobs or you'll end up throwing most of it away. Before it's opened you can store it in the freezer and it'll keep for years but once opened do not put it back in the freezer. The glue self kicks from moisture and temperature cycling it will form condensation in the bottle which will kill it quicker. If you need a regular supply but don't use lots of it just buy more smaller bottles so you can put the spares in the freezer. And when you take them out let the bottle warm up fully to room temp before cutting the end of the nozzle to open it. Otherwise it'll suck in the air moisture and again that'll contaminate the glue slightly.
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Hey Nonus, if you don't get the accelerator AND the adhesive on you, you're OK (so long as you don't HOLD on to something). The adhesive itself will either wear off, or you can do as I do, and just use a little bit of sandpaper to rub it off when it's dry.
