new barrel break in

Bile

Bile

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i couldnt see any topics about this but there has to be somewhere. i guess since im retarted maybe someone can post a link if it exists.

ive always fired used firearms and ive never had the opportunity to actually break in a new rifle myself, until now, and ive fired quite a few different firearms now.

Generally it seems the way to do it is for the first 5 rounds do a full barrel clean after each round. then clean after every 5 rounds until about 50 rounds are complete. also allowing for cooling inbetween grouping so the barrel doesnt heat up too much.


i had a few questions like;

Can i use a pull through instead of a rod and bore guide?
Is there too much of a risk to damage the crown if i do that?
Or is the back and forth scrubbing really necessary? (Ive always done the chamber to crown policy)

Do i need these fancy solvents or can i Just stick with CLP or 3-in-1 oil?
 
A lot of controversy surrounds barrel break-in.
Some are of the opinion that it is absolutely unnecessary.
Others feel it is essential on a new barrel.
If you feel you want to do it, I'm sure it has some benefits.
However, one of the benefits is NOT a more accurate rifle.
It usually makes them much easier to clean up, though.
You should use a solvent that cuts copper, since that is mainly what
you are after. I suggest Shooter's Choice, Butch's Bore Shine, or Hoppes
#9 Benchrest.
Ideally, you should use a one-piece rod and a bore guide, pushing from breech
to crown.[Do not scrub back & forth]
Clean after each shot for five, clean after 3 shots for 15.[5 groups of 3]
Then shoot away.
Enjoy. Eagleye.
 
I dont own a one piece rod.

I dont own a bore guide.

I didnt follow any specific procedure

yet ive managed to break in several rifles just fine. So I guess that puts me in the "completely unnecessary" group.
 
I just shoot. Maybe give it a run through of moly bore lube if you feel something is needed.

Really 'breaking in a new rifle' should have nothing to do with the barrel and everything to do with slicking up the action. One of the first things I usually do is break down a rifle and polish the internals.

:cheers:
 
This is the recommendation for one, if not the best, barrel manufacturer:
It's for high quality barrels but works great for "normal" barrel also.

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm
Read it and do what you think is right.

I basically use this procedure and clean my rifle every 10 shots with a bore guide and a good cleaning rod.
All of my hunting rifles shot 0.5-0.75 MOA 5 shot group with good ammo.

Alex
 
AlexF said:
This is the recommendation for one, if not the best, barrel manufacturer:
It's for high quality barrels but works great for "normal" barrel also.

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm
Read it and do what you think is right.

I basically use this procedure and clean my rifle every 10 shots with a bore guide and a good cleaning rod.
All of my hunting rifles shot 0.5-0.75 MOA 5 shot group with good ammo.

Alex
Click to expand...

Kreiger link read with interest. Thanks.
 
Eagleye said:
A lot of controversy surrounds barrel break-in.
Some are of the opinion that it is absolutely unnecessary.
Others feel it is essential on a new barrel.
If you feel you want to do it, I'm sure it has some benefits.
However, one of the benefits is NOT a more accurate rifle.
Click to expand...

Here's is something to add to this ongoing controversy........
I had someone at Colt Canada tell me last year that any "break-in" requirement has virtually been eliminated in commercial firearms due to manufacturing materials and techniques.

He explained that the majority of manufacturers using Chrome Molybdenum steel such as 4140, 4150 and 4340 types or 416 type stainless - employing either a hammer, button, or a cut rifling profile - (and superior internal machine finishes such as Chrome); have all but eliminated any break-in requirements.

This is not necessarily true of custom made barrels, however, where each barrel may have slight deviations due to fabrication techniques, handling and tooling. In these instances, I think you may be able to extend the accuracy life and harmonic consistency of a custom barrel through a formal break-in process.

Kindof like vehicle manufacturers; You don't need to break-in a Focus, but you must break in a Ferrari. ;)
 
Have a look at the September 2011 issue of Rifle Magazine. There is an article, in which it was found that following a break-in routine resulted in no change detectable to a borescope.
 
I shoot my rifles right out of the box until I see a drop off in accuracy. So far a couple of my rifles have 2-400 rounds down the barrel since last cleaning. They still shoot sub-moa, and when I've cleaned them they weren't overly difficult to swab clean with WipeOut and a brass jag for the caliber of rifle.
 
Weapontech said:
Here's is something to add to this ongoing controversy........
I had someone at Colt Canada tell me last year that any "break-in" requirement has virtually been eliminated in commercial firearms due to manufacturing materials and techniques.

He explained that the majority of manufacturers using Chrome Molybdenum steel such as 4140, 4150 and 4340 types or 416 type stainless - employing either a hammer, button, or a cut rifling profile - (and superior internal machine finishes such as Chrome); have all but eliminated any break-in requirements.

This is not necessarily true of custom made barrels, however, where each barrel may have slight deviations due to fabrication techniques, handling and tooling. In these instances, I think you may be able to extend the accuracy life and harmonic consistency of a custom barrel through a formal break-in process.

Kindof like vehicle manufacturers; You don't need to break-in a Focus, but you must break in a Ferrari. ;)
Click to expand...


its funny you mention ferrari. I bought a tikka t3 hunter and later i was shopping for a 9mm and over heard one of the salesman refer to tikka as the ferrari of hunting rifles. I dont think I would agree since the tikka i have seems more of a low to mid range rifle. too much plastic. id call it a fiat or skoda or something. the salesman at that store were pretty bad (new cabela's in edmonton. sheez. maybe they will be better after they streamline their gun department better. very unimpressed with how they handled the 9mm purchase. its now the 3rd day after the purchase and i had to manually call into cfo to find out they didnt send the gun club info.)

either way ive learned a little bit more about how to the break in. I think ill still do it. I think this will be the best way to start out. maybe it'll be better in the long run.

thanks for solvent suggestions.

as for pull throughs (specificly bore snakes), Ive used them almost all the time. I wouldnt mind some clarification why i shouldnt be using them. I think theyre the catsass being so compact and easy to bring along. But if theyre only doing bad things I think i could probably switch back to rods.
 
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