New Husqvarna - looking for advice

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cptchaos

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I just picked up a Haskvarna Vapenfabruks model that I believe is a M46 with serial number 187682. (Paid $300.00) It looks like a bit of a jack handle right now as it looks like it was hunted hard since its birth in 1956. Cracked stock behind the top action. A piece of stock chipped off behind the bolt handle. Some surface rust and slight pitting near barrel end due to removal of about half the bluing from wear and tear. However it still shoots producing a 1 1/2" group with some random hunting load as old as the gun. (It was green and fuzzy looking and had to be cleaned before use) It has a very cool Weaver pivot mount 3X scope that is clear and well centered. (Weaver K3 60-B El Paso Texas)

I have the skills to repair and refinish the stock and a bit of cold blue and steel wool will make the steel look presentable again. I am just wondering if this gun is worth the effort.

I have hunted with a Tikka 308 for 45 years and am a big fan of the rifle tech that comes out of that part of the world. My rifle is battered from a lifetime of use but still holds sub MOA with my hand loads. I don't know much about the Husky rifle brand. Also, does anyone know much about this Weaver mount? It looks practical as it allows you to instantly revert to iron sights for close range zombie attacks.

Any thoughts?

Marty
 
You have a good hunting rifle, worthy of protecting with a good finish.
You will not make money by refinishing, but perhaps enjoy the gun more.
 
Before getting into the refinish, worth investigating that crack behind the action - seems to show up lots with Mauser style - is often caused because the recoil lug at front of action is getting pounded back, for whatever reason - needs to be shimmed either with metal or epoxy bedding. When done, should be an air gap between rear of the action tang and the wood - 2 or 3 thickness of paper or so - say .008" to .010". If / when that gap closes, shows you that the receiver is moving to the rear, under recoil. Rear tang is more or less a taper - if tight in the wood, and allowed to move rearwards, the side force the wood stock apart, under recoil. So have to fix the crack, but also want to fix what caused it, then look at making outside look better... In severe cases, can have the rear action screw bent, when the receiver moves rearward - ideally want that rear action screw dead straight and dead centre within the metal tube - not touching it - not transferring recoil to the stock.
 
cptchaos said:
..... It has a very cool Weaver pivot mount 3X scope that is clear and well centered. (Weaver K3 60-B El Paso Texas) ....

Also, does anyone know much about this Weaver mount? It looks practical as it allows you to instantly revert to iron sights for close range zombie attacks.

Any thoughts?

Marty
Click to expand...

That mount. I used to use one. Like most others of that type - two pointy ends into two divots - so periodically needs to be checked that still snug. Also, in use, from past experience - make sure scope is actually snapped down all the way on those mounts!! To watch for - not sure level of recoil on your rifle? Many shooters have their head not straight to rifle when shooting - left side of forehead further ahead - so that is where that scope is going to get "rolled over" to - so can catch a "scope bite" when using irons - depends on your shooting style, holding style and level of recoil - something to be aware of if you have not used them.

That scope - I am pretty certain the Weaver 60-B were "permanent centre" type - cross hairs going to always be centered, I think. But definitely was an issue from that era - not all stayed centered, for sure. But I think the Weaver 60 did. Do not think they were sealed though, so might be subject to internal fogging? For many years, a Weaver K3 was the scope on the #2 deer rifle that was here - I think it worked just fine.
 
 
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Looking at your first picture - that chunk missing behind the bolt handle. Some references I have, seem to emphasize that Mausers need to transfer recoil from receiver to stock only at the recoil lug up front - no where else - if that recoil shoulder goes mushy or pounded back, (ones with the metal cross bar can happen in the wood around and at ends of the bar) then the whole receiver moves to the rear - typical split straight out the rear, but almost looks like the shoulder on your receiver is really tight to the wood stock - maybe what causes that chunk to crack and then fall off?? Should not be contact - should not be recoil transfer there - Not certain about repair if you do not have that chunk that came off - maybe dead flat cut - glue on similar coloured block, re-carve, re-shape to match your stock? Obviously want to attend to that before doing any refinishing. Not sure what you have going on directly behind the tang - almost looks like wood chips have been removed there, too - all goes to making the recoil shoulder suspect...
 
I have the skills to replace the chunk missing behind the bolt handle. I agree that a flat with a matching piece of walnut glued in will work. I have to figure out what caused the damage and I suspect that a good bedding job will stop a repeat of the damage to the stock. I hate to upset the patina of the stock with a new finish but that will be the only way with this old timer. I am quite pleased with the accuracy and hope that hand loads and bedding will improve things a bit.
 
I have my eye on Husqvarna M98 in 9.3x62 that has not been drilled and tapped for a scope mount.

Old world Mauser technology and just what I'm looking for.

The stock and metal are in much better condition than yours, but I'm still thinking about the possibility of using a new Boyds laminated stock.

The original stock has only a very tiny short crack that would be easily repairable.

In the end, if I'm going to buy it, I think it would be worth the investment in the Boyds for a lifetime of future use.

Have you ever thought about a stock replacement or would it not be worth the investment.

I know that I could buy a more modern version rifle in the same calibre, but I'm not sure I would be getting the same old school CRF quality and craftsmanship from days gone by.

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cigar_man - my 9.3x62 looks similar - mine is a Model 649, I think. Note the angle / drop of the comb - those old girls pretty perfect for iron sight use, but you might be more into a "jaw" rest than a cheek rest once you get a scope on it. Makes installing a proper made higher comb Boyd's a reasonable option. I also used that one of mine to learn to install a horizontal 3 position safety - do not remember now which brand it was - have installed opposite brand on another Mauser here. One was Dakota, other was Gentry. Also, mine will not properly single feed, so I no longer try - 5 into the mag, then close the bolt to chamber one from mag is how I carry it. I also removed the single stage Husqvarna (FN?) trigger and went with a military two stage - I prefer that system, especially with half frozen fingers. Was also a learning experience - swapped out several to get a trigger and sear that would work with the cocking piece and get a nice "sharp" two stage function. Good guns to work on.

EDIT: - re-read your post - you did not want drilled and tapped for scope, so what you show is about perfect, I think, for iron sights - going to be hard to find a Boyd's stock with sufficient drop in comb for iron sights - not done much any more - not much market for it...
 
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I had the same thoughts about restocking but I don't think my rifle would justify the expense. I used to have an old Swede is 6.5x55 with a 1914 date stamp. It had iron sights and I could hold 2 inch groups at 100 yards with it. I was going to put a scope on it and even bought the mounting hardware. I didn't and never felt regretted it. I did put a plastic sport stock in it which made it a bit lighter to carry. Let me know if you restock. I am wondering if your old stock would bolt up to my model M46???
 
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