New Molot 91/30 PU. Few questions.

StrelokM38

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Hey guys. Got myself a new Mosin 91/30 PU rifle today and did a rough zero on it. Just not certain how the reticle should be set on these things.

When I got it out of the box, Had to attach the scope, did so but noticed there was some wobble between the plate and the gun. I removed the extra screws that prevent the others from backing out and tightened those instead. Fixed the issue, just not sure if i should figure a way for them to tighten properly or simply loctite it, any input on that?

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Another thing is regarding the scope setup. I can't really find much resources on the specific adjustments of the turrets, specifically the elevation. I've managed to get the windage on the 0 setting spot on with the mount, but I'm not sure if I should have the elevation way up near the top. That is close to being the 0 setting on the top turret and currently hitting around the 75 yard mark.
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Move the reticle to the lower 1/4 of the FOV for a 100m zero and reset the BDC turret by loosening the two screws on the turret. You have to use the two vertical axis set set screws on the base to adjust zero... At least this is what I gather.

Someone will come along to correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I removed the extra screws that prevent the others from backing out and tightened those instead. Fixed the issue, just not sure if i should figure a way for them to tighten properly or simply loctite it, any input on that?

Put a small shim (find a correct thickness) under the screw, and you will match notch for loking screw with hole for it
 
I've read that coarse elevation is set on the Mosin sniper rifles by means of the set screws on the rear of the mount. Fine tuning is then done with the turret.

Coarse windage on the Mosin was set by machining/filing/shimming the mount so it places the scope roughly in line with the bore, and fine tuning is done with the windage turret.

Due to the necessity of filing on the mount, the Soviet sniper was STRONGLY discouraged from removing the mount from the rifle. If for any reason the mount got mixed up with another, or shims were lost, the rifle's accuracy could go out to lunch (it's also the reason the rifle's serial number is also on the mount, and the scope's serial number is normally on the shank of the barrel).

It's a nice looking rifle you have there OP.
 
I think this is a recent Tulsky import, not a Molot. The serial number duplicated on the receiver is a requirement for importation into the US. Recent Tulskys have this attribute; the 2012-13 Molots do not. The large "Made in Russia" laser etch on the receiver also distinguishes the more recent imports from the older Molots (which have a very small laser etch under the wood ahead of the rear sight).

The looseness of the mount to the receiver is not a good sign. It implies that the mount and rifle are not an original matching set. The proper way to correct the issue is to grind new pockets for the locking screws. Shimming, as has already been suggested, is a good alternative.

The scope picture (reticle at the top) is the correct view for 100 meters. If you don't plan to use the graduated scale for distance, and you don't plan to shoot over 300m, you can use the coarse elevation screws in the mount to center the field of view. Opportunities to shoot more than 300 meters are pretty limited for most of us and the kind of targets you can hit at 1000 m are limited pretty much to 2 foot circles on white paper with a 3.5X scope.

Hope you enjoy your new purchase. Don't be discouraged if you shoot 2-3 inch groups with milsurp ammunition. This is about what you can reasonably expect at 100 m despite the number of "shoot an inch all day long" posting you will see on the internet. I takes a lot of trial and error and lots of practice to get these to get these rifles to average 1.5 inches with 5 shot groups. They shoot best with 174 gn Sierra HPBT which are currently running at $56/100 if you can find them anywhere (on the shelf beside the Unicorn saddles).
 
Thanks for the replies everyone!

Hmm, I didn't see any markings on the mount itself, I'll have to look, but hopefully this doesn't make it less of a shooter.

I've been super impressed with the rifle so far, and its actually been printing some alright groups so far. The locking screws are still removed from the gun, and I've been considering using blue locktite to make up for their absense, would this be a good or bad idea?
 
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