New "No Lube Grooves" LEE pistol molds

kjohn

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I just saw a blurb on a FB group about these molds. Checked on the LEE Precision site. There are over dozen available. Looks interesting! I will be getting some to help feed my Rossi 38/357 lever and Chiappa 44/44mag (the one with the bad rifling).

The Chiappa has very bad rifling, and I can't use ordinary cast bullets. I've had it to a gunsmith to get the lead cleaned out, and have been firing copper jacketed since. I plan to use up some more copper jacket ammo, the try PC'd cast.
 
Why not powder coat a grease groove bullet seems to work just fine.

What’s wrong with the bore? Could it be lapped out.
I do PC grooved bullets. Nothing wrong with the bores except for my Chiappa 44/44mag lever gun. Can't use lubed bullets. I use copper jacket ones in it. Will try PC'd bullets, both grooved and NLG type.

Is there some law against trying out new stuff?
 
Why not powder coat a grease groove bullet seems to work just fine.

What’s wrong with the bore? Could it be lapped out.
The bore is rough. Looks like they left something running in the barrel while they went for lunch. Works okay with copper jacketed bullets. Going to give it a try with PC'd bullets.
 
regarding your rough bore, read up on David Tubb's final finish fire lapping bullet kits. these are bullets that have been coated with coarse, medium, and fine types of abrasive material to polish the bore starting with coarse and finishing with fine to improve the accuracy and extend cleaning intervals of poor quality barrels.
Veral Smith of LBT molds sold a firelapping abrasive kit that you had to apply to lead bullets and then load and fire in your gun. both systems work but the Tubbs system is quicker and more convenient. the tricky part of these systems is knowing when to stop because overdoing it will ruin your barrel by eroding the rifling in the throat. having said that, these systems will definitely make a difference in a poor quality barrel.
 
The bore is rough. Looks like they left something running in the barrel while they went for lunch. Works okay with copper jacketed bullets. Going to give it a try with PC'd bullets.
Not knocking what you're doing but in some cases it's just cheaper and easier to rebarrel, than keep on fighting it.

I'm extremely lucky with my Chiappa 357 mag, Mod 92 clone. It's got a perfect bore.

After reading some comments on this site, I checked the bores of some acquaintances Chiappa, Rossi, and even a Winchester.

The bore on my rifle was the exception, other than the single Winchester.

I had an Uberti Model 73 clone when they first came into Canada. It had very light chatter marks in the barrel as well. They didn't create any fouling issues, but I was only shooting jacketed bullets through it.

I traded it off because it didn't see much use.

I use my present Chiappa quite a lot, and it has a 20 inch barrel.

It handles stout loads very well.

I have a lot of H110 on hand, and it pushes 125 grain bullets just over 2300fps with 22 grains of powder, over small rifle magnum primers.

I've used both small rifle primers and small pistol primers, both magnum and standard, and settled on the magnum. Velocities are more consistent with H110 with magnum primers.

I use this rifle mainly for plinking, but it also does double duty as a bunny/coyote rifle out to 100 yds. It should be good for Deer from a tree stand at similar ranges, but with heavier bullets.

I like this handy little rifle a lot, it replaced the M1 Carbine I carried for the same purpose.
 
The question is what is the cast diameter compared to final diameter after pc. I have a steel 5 cavity no lube groove mold for 9 mm that casts .356” before pc that works really well. Fortunately my favourite 9mm bore slugs at .357” and with the pc I can bring final diameter very close. A rifle mold in .30 that finishes at .308” would be nice.
 
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