New Ross M-1910 restoration project.

PerversPépère

PerversPépère

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Just finished cleaning the chamber and bore and it is SHINY inside! :D Never before have I seen such a clean, bright and sharp rifling in a Ross M-1910. So, guess what, I'm quite tempted to go try it at the range.
It has the E C stamp on the barrel root meaning it has been reamed to an enlarged chamber.
Should I shoot new, full power ammo in it or take time to form some brass with pistol powder under cornmeal and a Parowax plug?
I have completely taken apart and cleaned the bolt. Upon inspection, it looks like a very clean and low round count rifle.
Too bad the wood has been cut down and sanded (I can't make out the serial and unit numbers anymore) because the barrel is intact. It wasn't sanded much though because wood still stands proud from the buttplate contour and metal.
One good thing too: wood has been cut forward of the middle barrel band so a hidden splice is still possible for grafting the forward missing wood.
Question: was the rear upper handguard held at the rear by some kind of flat spring? was it riveted to the wood?
How does it fit under the barrel band at the front?
Some pics of the rear handguard attachments would be most welcome.
Thanks!
PP.
 
Can't tell you what to do, but I use regular Winchester or Remington 303 in several Rosses. The upper handguard has two C shaped flat metal spring steel clamps which snap on to the barrel. They are riveted to the wood. Much like the No1 Mk 111. It just slides under the front band. Sorry I don't know how to post pics. Am sure others can and explain better as well.
 
Here are some pics to show what Old Hound was talking about...

These are the rivets on the outside of the hand guard
IMG_1213.jpg


These are the metal clips on the inside... just use the tension in the metal to hold it onto the barrel... there are some channels cut into the stock to accommodate the clips
IMG_1215.jpg


And this shows how the front of the hand guard goes under the stock band, and they just snap down into place.
IMG_1216.jpg


I've only used hand loads in my Ross... but they are not reduced loads... regular full strength loads! Mine shoots very well with Sierra 180gr SP's and IMR 4895

How are you going to lengthen the stock? What wood are you going to use?

EB
 
From the bottom of my heart I'm sorry to say this (as it affects me too- I just got a Mk II** with full length barrel and cut down wood) but if the info was sanded off the buttstock, no matter what you do, the rifle won't be worth much. :(

A true collectible Ross has deep, clear, unsanded info on the buttstock. Otherwise...you have a shooter.
Rossguy just laid this out a month or two ago, and he is absolutely correct and truly knows what he's talking about.

You need:
A forend that was cut ahead of the barrel band
All the historical markings intact on the buttstock
An unsanded buttstock that has not had it's shape altered
Full length, uncut barrel, that is not a sewer pipe.

Then and only then is it worth it.

Might as well buy Bushwhacker's rifle he extended the forend on and made up a new handguard for. There's a lot of work involved.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323037

BTW, is there anyone on here that can fabricate a Ross handguard from scratch for a reasonable price? I need one.
 
Ross project

Agree with Cantom. If going to all that work to piece together a MKIII including forend, then starting with a stock that still has visible markings remaining is critical IMHO. Again, this is just my opinion.
If a person still wants to re-create a MKIII, easier solution might be to use MKII front & rear bands as they are easier to find it seems. This could simulate an early MKIII or "home guard" rifle. Again a fun "shooter".
I recently acquired a decent 1915 MKIII with good markings, cut 4" forward of band and with VG+ full length barrel and even then I'm likely to leave it "as-is" because (A) I'm lazy (B) I'm fortunate to have un-molested examples.
Now if I didn't have an original example, I'd rebuild one just to have and shoot until an original one could be found.
Yes H Wally, a local buddy built a handguard from a No.4 that looked quite good. I'm wondering if a P14/17 rearguard might work although the sighting groove might cause a problem.
Geoff
 
Who said collectible?

From the bottom of my heart I'm sorry to say this (as it affects me too- I just got a Mk II** with full length barrel and cut down wood) but if the info was sanded off the buttstock, no matter what you do, the rifle won't be worth much. :(
Click to expand...
I don't need a collectible; complete Ross rifles are about as current as certified lightning in a jar; I just need a credibly restored shooter for friendly military matches.
A true collectible Ross has deep, clear, unsanded info on the buttstock. Otherwise...you have a shooter.
Click to expand...
It better be! :D
Rossguy just laid this out a month or two ago, and he is absolutely correct and truly knows what he's talking about.

You need:
A forend that was cut ahead of the barrel band.
Click to expand...
Got it! :D
All the historical markings intact on the buttstock
Click to expand...
OOPS! :p
An unsanded buttstock that has not had it's shape altered
Click to expand...
Sanded yes, changed shape no. :)
Full length, uncut barrel, that is not a sewer pipe.
Click to expand...
It's the most beautiful chamber and bore I have seen on a Ross and many surpluses! :D Shot it this morning and the brass doesn't look enlarged, only sharper shoulders.
BTW, is there anyone on here that can fabricate a Ross handguard from scratch for a reasonable price? I need one.
Click to expand...
I'll tell you when mine is done.
Is it for your MkII**? I have two, one uncut, the other bubbaïzed beyond any hopes. I intend to remove the barrel on that one to serve as a sanding pattern for the forearms channel. For mine, since it is black walnut, I'll find some more of that wood.
Do you have any pics and measures I could use?
PP. :D
 
Work like that is part of the fun of restoration. Look at Louthepou: he's having fun and the effort is worth it.
Mind you, it will never be an original Ross again ever since somebody found it useful to alter its stock. But I happen to have a suitable front band with the bayonet latch and some spare wood handguards and stocks from a MKIII. The hanguard will be cut from the underside of the stock where the barrel channel begins just at the chamber's end, saving me the inletting. I'll just have to whittle down to the right thickness then fabricate two holding spring blades and rivet them.
This will be the tricky part because one can easily crack the wood upon riveting. I have to find dead soft copper rivets and make some tests on a thin piece of wood before doing the real one.
BTW, is there a reinforcement piece at the front of the handguard where it slips under the barrel band?
PP.

P-S: And since this will not be a collectible, I'll go full monty and have it rust blued save the bolt which will be just given a fake bone charcoal coloring (I don't want to risk any change in the heat treating of that bolt).
 
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