New to AR15. Charging handle question

PECHENEG

PECHENEG

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Hi guys,

I am an SKS/ AK/ mosin/ SVT etc guy

Finally I decided to buy AR15

Bought M+P sport 2

So it looks like a toy compared to Russian guns, hopefully will hold enough rounds.

Anyways, here is the Q: when I DRY charge the rifle... and don't let the bolt go... the charging handle is sliding freely back and forth unless I lock it in place.. is this normal?

THANKS!!
 
That is normal. I lock it back into place (forward) if keeping the bolt open (checking chamber). Not sure if that's right but to me it's better then the bolt slamming it back into place when it closes.

Welcome to the club!
 
Is it going fully into battery? When I first got mine, if I did that, I could get the bolt to just not lock up and could use the forward assist to seat it. After a few hundred rounds, it pops in every time.
 
RSK said:
Is it going fully into battery? When I first got mine, if I did that, I could get the bolt to just not lock up and could use the forward assist to seat it. After a few hundred rounds, it pops in every time.
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He means he's pulling back on the handle and leaving the bolt open, as if he had fired and has a dry mag. He's wondering if the handle should be loose when charging and not letting the bolt close. It's not common to do unless checking chamber or preparing for a speed drill with all mags in vest/carrier.

If you grab your AR and put an empty mag in and charge it you'll have an open bolt and a loose charging handle. Most people just lock it forward if leaving the bolt open I would think.

At least that's what I understood.
 
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PECHENEG said:
Hi guys,

I am an SKS/ AK/ mosin/ SVT etc guy

Finally I decided to buy AR15

Bought M+P sport 2

So it looks like a toy compared to Russian guns, hopefully will hold enough rounds.

Anyways, here is the Q: when I DRY charge the rifle... and don't let the bolt go... the charging handle is sliding freely back and forth unless I lock it in place.. is this normal?

THANKS!!
Click to expand...

Locking the bolt to the rear will leave the charge handle to move freely as it is not a reciprocating charge handle. Lock bolt to the rear then push CH back into the forward and latched position.

Kratos said:
That is normal. I lock it back into place (forward) if keeping the bolt open (checking chamber). Not sure if that's right but to me it's better then the bolt slamming it back into place when it closes.

Welcome to the club!
Click to expand...

It is perfectly fine to let the bolt drag the charge handle into position. How do you think it works when charging the rifle from a closed bolt?

RSK said:
Is it going fully into battery? When I first got mine, if I did that, I could get the bolt to just not lock up and could use the forward assist to seat it. After a few hundred rounds, it pops in every time.
Click to expand...

If your BCG is not going into battery then you're either riding the charge handle or your gun is poorly built.
 
Kidd X said:
Locking the bolt to the rear will leave the charge handle to move freely as it is not a reciprocating charge handle. Lock bolt to the rear then push CH back into the forward and latched position.

That is normal. I lock it back into place (forward) if keeping the bolt open (checking chamber). Not sure if that's right but to me it's better then the bolt slamming it back into place when it closes.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

We agree.

Kidd X said:
It is perfectly fine to let the bolt drag the charge handle into position. How do you think it works when charging the rifle from a closed bolt?

That is normal. I lock it back into place (forward) if keeping the bolt open (checking chamber). Not sure if that's right but to me it's better then the bolt slamming it back into place when it closes.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

We don't agree? Lol

I know how to charge a rifle with a loaded mag and let the handle ride the carrier back into battery. That wasn't the question he asked or the operation I was explaining. Keep your condescending comments to yourself if you're not adding anything helpful.
 
when I press bolt release everything goes into place and charging handle returns back.

it is different mechanics for me guys.
 
This is why the charging handle doesn't smack you in the face when the bolt cycles, lol. Imagine having a reciprocating charging handle where it is on the AR...
 
Kratos said:
That is normal. I lock it back into place (forward) if keeping the bolt open (checking chamber). Not sure if that's right but to me it's better then the bolt slamming it back into place when it closes.

Welcome to the club!
Click to expand...

Kratos said:
We agree.



We don't agree? Lol

I know how to charge a rifle with a loaded mag and let the handle ride the carrier back into battery. That wasn't the question he asked or the operation I was explaining. Keep your condescending comments to yourself if you're not adding anything helpful.
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Note the bold from your previous post. Note the part where you say "not sure if that's right..." That would be your opinion, an uneducated one at that. There is NOTHING wrong with letting the bolt drag the CH back into the locked position.

Stop spouting ill informed personal opinions vs facts.

I know what he was asking and answered that as well..
 
Kidd X said:
Note the bold from your previous post. Note the part where you say "not sure if that's right..." That would be your opinion, an uneducated one at that. There is NOTHING wrong with letting the bolt drag the CH back into the locked position.

Stop spouting ill informed personal opinions vs facts.

I know what he was asking and answered that as well..
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Scenario:
Charging handle at full extension with bolt locked back. Right handed shooter takes full cheek weld and hits the paddle to release the bolt with left hand. Will the charging handle have enough forward momentum to gouge your cheek? Esp if it's an extended type like a BCM or Raptor?
I was always told to lock the loose CH before shouldering the rifle due to the risk of tearing your face off. Always taken it as gospel. Any truth to this? Didn't actually want to use my face for the experiment!
 
Still alive said:
Scenario:
Charging handle at full extension with bolt locked back. Right handed shooter takes full cheek weld and hits the paddle to release the bolt with left hand. Will the charging handle have enough forward momentum to gouge your cheek? Esp if it's an extended type like a BCM or Raptor?
I was always told to lock the loose CH before shouldering the rifle due to the risk of tearing your face off. Always taken it as gospel. Any truth to this? Didn't actually want to use my face for the experiment!
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I never said or condoned leaving the charge handle retracted then mounting the rifle then using the bolt catch. All I'm saying is if you lock your bolt back to clear your rifle then decide to close the bolt with the bolt catch it isn't going to harm anything. Why would you mount the rifle with the bolt locked back and the CH retracted????

I'm of the thought process that the CH is to be used whenever you load the rifle.
No chance of the situation you describe
works on all auto loading rifles
it mimics an immediate action drill
it works regardless of bolt position
it works for left and right handed users
it works in all climates with or without gloves.
 
I would never do what I described in the scenario. As I mentioned, I always lock the CH forward. Happens during the "Load and make ready" command in a match and during a double feed malfunction drill.
I was curious if anyone has done what I described and if any damage was done to their cheek when the CH came flying forward.
 
HERE IS ANOTHER Question:

Well I will start with the fact that so far I didn't yet shoot my M+P sport 2, but I already do not like very short stock, although it is 6 position mil-spec it is tooooo short for me, and I am a tall guy.

So are there buffer tubes which allow 10-12 positions?
Are there stocks which increase length of pull at reasonable price without changing the buffer tube?

P.S. So far I am not impressed... I am taking my SKS to the woods if SHTF, not this one: overall construction is kind of like a rifle for a kid, my son has a toy rifle it feels better built than M+P sport 2
 
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Kingjenky said:
Why did you not get the cmmg mutant comrade?????? AK mags and purpose built to run 762x39....
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man 700 vs 1400 :) is the answer
also, i didn't have anything in .223/5.56 nato for SHTF... now I have it... but man it is a strange system... it is like most Russians are not compatible with APPLE products same for AR-15 vs AK/ SKS I guess
CMMG doesn't have some options KS47 has at a lower price, so I think I will try KS47 first if I go that AR-15 7.62x39 route
 
PECHENEG said:
HERE IS ANOTHER Question:

Well I will start with the fact that so far I didn't yet shoot my M+P sport 2, but I already do not like very short stock, although it is 6 position mil-spec it is tooooo short for me, and I am a tall guy.

So are there buffer tubes which allow 10-12 positions?
Are there stocks which increase length of pull at reasonable price without changing the buffer tube?

P.S. So far I am not impressed... I am taking my SKS to the woods if SHTF, not this one: overall construction is kind of like a rifle for a kid, my son has a toy rifle it feels better built than M+P sport 2
Click to expand...

Lol because it's not a brick? ARs are no good for bludgeoning people with, they function/shoot well though. The S&W is not the best example, but by no means is it junk. Your son's toy rifle does not feel better built than the M&P. Unless it was obscenely expensive.
 
that's what I am going to do-build my own and thus the Question: are there 10 position buffer tubes, may be longer length of pull stocks... not for 300$ for the stock
 
Kingjenky said:
Something to read. I found helpful.
http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266972
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looks interesting, thanks!!

As to M+P sport 2... just by looking at it.. and handling it... yes it is not a brick... and a real rifle should be like a brick, no.. it should be like a tank rather-then it is mil-spec rifle;
it should be also relatively light weight, relatively precise and less moving parts/ complex structures possible... if I disassemble AR15 it will be 2x more parts than AK-more parts-more wear/ tear-more failures sooner or later.

anyhow, I have AR15 now, just in case, and as many people have .223/5.56 in N. America it makes it a good buy for WROLs... but man.... let me shoot it and I will tell you if it is OK or a piece of junk
 
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Definitly more precise than the SKS and AK, you'll see.

Although its seem more "complex" of a rifle because it has more parts, it is very reliable and accurate. Been working with the platform for 14 years in all conditions and it never failed. Keep the BCG oiled and the bolt face dry and you'll get the same results.

For the short buttstock, there is extension pads that can be slipped on the base.

Enjoy your AR and post videos
 
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