New to Lee Enfields sporter

St Pauli

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I just picked up a sporter to be a back up or main hunting gun.
I haven't fired it yet I want to make my own ammo.

Some questions about the rifle and ammo.
The rifle is built on a 1942 Savage No 4 mk1 receiver
I think a #5 bolt as it is lightened
Nice blued multi grooved barrel marked Parker Hale England on front sight

Can I assume the rifle was rebarreled? I thought Savages were 2 grove.

Secondly
What is a good starting point for a deer round? Recommend grain weight of bullet?

This is going to be a fun project.
 
When growing up, 150 grain and 180 grain were most commonly used (because that was what was in the store) in 303 British for deer - slight nod to 150's, perhaps, but not a lot of difference. You will note that Hornady makes spitzer style Interlock Soft Point in 150 grain and Round Nose Interlock 180 grain - that are both nominally .312" diameter. Most other makers are .311". And some are .3105". May or may not make difference in your rifle.

Some No. 4 magazines need "tweaking" and tuning of the lips for specific shape of the ammo used. Those lips easily bent and deformed. Original design was that magazine essentially lived in the rifle and removed only for cleaning - loading up was done with chargers (stripper clips). Was not actually designed for "mag swaps" like semi and select fire rifles much later on.

Read up on this site and others about using o-ring on your brass for first firing, then do not full length size after that. Brass will last much longer if fire formed and head spaced off your rifle chamber shoulder, rather than the rim. With repeated full length sizing, expect case head separations in two or three firings. Get a 303 British broken cartridge extractor and carry with you when taking the rifle out with handholds.
 
I just picked up a sporter to be a back up or main hunting gun.
I haven't fired it yet I want to make my own ammo.

Some questions about the rifle and ammo.
The rifle is built on a 1942 Savage No 4 mk1 receiver
I think a #5 bolt as it is lightened
Nice blued multi grooved barrel marked Parker Hale England on front sight

Can I assume the rifle was rebarreled? I thought Savages were 2 grove.

Secondly
What is a good starting point for a deer round? Recommend grain weight of bullet?

This is going to be a fun project.

The bolt and barrel are likely original. Savage produced the No4 MKI for a short period before changing over to the No4 MKI* design. The early MKI had a button cocking knob, hollow handles, bolt released and had 5 (maybe 6? Can’t remember) groove barrels.
 
So I should buy neck sizing dies only?
Recommendations?

yes neck size only is the preferred method if you only have 1 rifle.

or if you keep brass for each rifle separate.

Now the Savage No4MkI (without *) would be an early rifle, I have one myself and I believe it is a 5C###x serial number, Savage switched over to the No4MkI* fairly early in its production.

without seeing pictures may be a Parker Hale conversion, but the lightened bolt handle was normal on later No4 rifles and not only found on the No5
 
I’ve heard sporterized enfields aren’t very accurate as the pressure from the stock near the muzzle is part of what stabilized the barrel
I’d be interested to hear what you think when you get out and shoot it
 
A 180 gr bullet is an excellent all-round hunting bullet. Does not blow up a lot of meat the way a 150 gr bullet at close range can do.

Buy a set of dies with a Full Length die. I like Lee.

Have you collected a bunch of fired brass? If so, sort it as commercial and military.

Take about 20 pieces of fired brass and gently try to insert them into the chamber. Some will not chamber, because they were fired in other rifles.

Note a couple of pieces that were the worst. They stuck out the most.

Install the full length sizing die, screw it down until it touches the shell holder, then back it out 5 revs. Now it will barely size a case.

Lube up the bad cases. Partially size one and see if it will chamber by finger pressure. If not, give the die a full turn and repeat. Keep doing this until a bad case will chamber. When it chambers, set the lock ring to that setting.

That is the die setting that will size a case so it will chamber in your rifle. It probably is leaving the shell shoulder long enough to engage the chamber, which is how you reduced case stretching.

The peep sight on your rifle is very robust, very accurate and excellent for hunting, since it does not hide the bottom half of the deer the way an open sight does.

When you start loading, load 5 each Starting with the START load and in 1 gr increments up to the book MAX load.

Shoot these for group size testing. Important you let the barrel cool between 5 shot strings. Use the cooling time to tweak the front sight for a better wind zero.

Take the group that shot the best as your new universal hunting load and enjoy.

If you can't get a group better than 4" at 100 yards, take a look at the clearance of the wood around the barrel. It should be clear (but it might be touching near the end, which is good.

If the groups are bad, and the barrel is clear, try a piece or two of ammo box cardboard under the barrel near the forend tip, to reduce barrel whip. If it helps, glue the cardboard into place and shellac it for water proofing.
 
Not a lot of choices for me in my area.
I did find a set of Lee pacesetter dies
Hornady brass and Hornady 150 gr SP Interlock #3120

I'll load with IMR 3031
Data says 30.0 gr up to 38.1

This is what I could get so this is what I'll use for now
 
I’ve heard sporterized enfields aren’t very accurate as the pressure from the stock near the muzzle is part of what stabilized the barrel
I’d be interested to hear what you think when you get out and shoot it

Mine is plenty accurate, if I do my part it shoots 1”-1 1/4” 5 round groups @ 100y. 2 groove barrel, sporter LB no.4
 
When I had my Enfield, I used 150gr soft points. Plenty of bullet for the deer and bear I was able to shoot. They never did complain, hahaha
 
"So I should buy neck sizing dies only?
Recommendations?"

You will want to "neck size" as much as possible, but at some point will need to bump back the shoulder of the case - it simply will not chamber any more. Some buy specific "bump dies" - I have never owned such. I do use only Full Length sizing dies - I believe the technique is called "partial sizing" - the Full Length die is set up in the press higher than designed, so might "squish in" the body of the fired case a bit, but will not touch the shoulder and will "neck size" most of the way down the neck, but not all the way - the operator controls that. Other threads describe how to get near a perfect fit with your re-sized cases into your specific chamber - may or may not be exactly as the manufacturer instructions that came with your die set.

The 303 British case was designed to "headspace" on the rim. To some extent, the rest of the chamber shape is almost irrelevant. Military cases and rifles were set up to chamber the round, fire it, extract and eject, and on to the next round. No thought whatsoever given to "reloading" that brass. Hence, was not uncommon for chambers to be fatter, even deeper, than today's standard - this allowed for successful chambering of dirty, bent, damaged ammo, that could still be fired. Ganderite's post above about "partial sizing" is about getting your fire-formed brass to headspace on the chamber's shoulder - essentially ignoring the role of the rim on the case regarding headspace - which is a good thing, if you want to extend the life of that brass for reloading.
 
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