New to me Husqvarna 6.5x55
- Thread starter Riven
- Start date
Well under $300 all in. Too good of a deal to pass up even if I definitely don't need it.
Thanks. I couldn't find a picture match online to figure out the model.
Yes the m38 sight matches mine. Thanks for the quick response everyone.
One last question.
There is a slight gap between the receiver and mag well that allows the floor plate to catch on the side when moved by hand.
Is this gap normal?
I don't yet have ammo to see if it feeds properly.
One last question.
There is a slight gap between the receiver and mag well that allows the floor plate to catch on the side when moved by hand.
Is this gap normal?
I don't yet have ammo to see if it feeds properly.
Floor plate or magazine follower? If it is the follower that is catching, probably won't make any difference if there are cartridges in the magazine.
Your bolt handle has not been altered. You are going to need very high rings if the handle and safety are going to clear the scope. See-through rings might be an option.
Your bolt handle has not been altered. You are going to need very high rings if the handle and safety are going to clear the scope. See-through rings might be an option.
Sorry yes follower.
Thanks for the advice on the bolt clearance.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
OP - if you have not played with a Mauser before, most all were made as controlled round feed - the cartridge is held by either the feed lips or by the extractor once it has popped clear of the feed lips. Many Mauser extractors have NOT been ground to snap over a chambered cartridge - although some have been. If the extractor is ever replaced with a standard military surplus, it will NOT be ground - you HAVE to chamber a single round into the magazine, and then close the bolt. If you drop a single round into the chamber, the bolt will not close (by design). I am more familiar with the P14 and Model of 1917 extractors and what is found on the Lee Enfield No. 4 - those extractors were made to close on a round dropped into the chamber - the Mauser's were not - m93, m95, m96, m98, etc. - although the extractor claw can usually be ground to make them do so.
In effect, the various Enfield actions act like "push feed", if a single round is dropped into the chamber with nothing in the magazine, but they work as "controlled round feed" if there are shells in the magazine and fed from there - you will have a good "jam up" with a Mauser, if you have your bolt open, drop a shell into the chamber and attempt to close the bolt with more shells in the magazine.
In effect, the various Enfield actions act like "push feed", if a single round is dropped into the chamber with nothing in the magazine, but they work as "controlled round feed" if there are shells in the magazine and fed from there - you will have a good "jam up" with a Mauser, if you have your bolt open, drop a shell into the chamber and attempt to close the bolt with more shells in the magazine.
Those rifles were sold by International Firearms out of Montreal back in the late seventies.
You had options, purchase one already in the stock, which was a great deal, because International had the work done in the UK, before entering Canada and they only used FTRed rifles for them. FTR = Factory Thorough Repair or rebuilt to as new condition.
The other option was to purchase a rifle from their stock on hand and a stock, then do the conversion yourself. Saved about $20 at the time, but the only guarantee of condition of the original rifle, was what you paid for. They were sold as NRA GOOD/VERY GOOD/ EXCELLENT and you paid a bit more for better condition and for $10 they would "hand select" supposedly for the better condition on the pallet or in the crates. Usually it was a waste of $10.
Tiriaq called it right, M38. Your rifle has be drilled and tapped, so getting the bolt altered for a lower scope would be well worth it IMHO.
Best option, would be to get the arm bent down and a machined knop added to the tip of the handle.
You had options, purchase one already in the stock, which was a great deal, because International had the work done in the UK, before entering Canada and they only used FTRed rifles for them. FTR = Factory Thorough Repair or rebuilt to as new condition.
The other option was to purchase a rifle from their stock on hand and a stock, then do the conversion yourself. Saved about $20 at the time, but the only guarantee of condition of the original rifle, was what you paid for. They were sold as NRA GOOD/VERY GOOD/ EXCELLENT and you paid a bit more for better condition and for $10 they would "hand select" supposedly for the better condition on the pallet or in the crates. Usually it was a waste of $10.
Tiriaq called it right, M38. Your rifle has be drilled and tapped, so getting the bolt altered for a lower scope would be well worth it IMHO.
Best option, would be to get the arm bent down and a machined knop added to the tip of the handle.
Thank you for the history.
If I do put a scope on it I assume any competent gunsmith can do the modification required.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
As well as playing with the bolt handle, if you want to install a scope, consider how you will deal with the safety - most Mausers were iron sighted - so the "over the top" safety was not an issue - but will not work if you mount a scope that you are able to see through. I have had a number of rifles here where the "flag" was sawed off to be short - it would then swing under the scope eye bell, but was much too short to be useful. Other options include the "up/down" scope friendly levers made by Parker Hale and FN (left side) or Dayton Triaster (right side) but those give up the third position of the three position Mauser safety. There is also Gentry or Dakota 3 position horizontal swing safeties, but probably pretty serious bucks to get those purchased and installed these days. There used to be a multitude of trigger blocking safeties that came on trigger units - they usually required some stock inletting to work well.
Potashminer is giving you some good options, however, they do make rings for such projects which would be acceptable and you don't have to touch anything or add to the cost.
If that were my rifle, I would opt for the "see through" rings, which allow you to use the open sights as well. Decent quality scopes seldom have issues but it's nice to know that if you're on a hunt and drop the rifle, or damage the scope, you can still use the iron sights.
If you do decide to go with the "see through" mount option, get a leather cheek pad for the butt so you have a spot to weld your jaw to while using a high mount scope. They can be had online for under $30 delivered. They also make some very nice Cordura cheek rests, with shell holders for the same price.
If that were my rifle, I would opt for the "see through" rings, which allow you to use the open sights as well. Decent quality scopes seldom have issues but it's nice to know that if you're on a hunt and drop the rifle, or damage the scope, you can still use the iron sights.
If you do decide to go with the "see through" mount option, get a leather cheek pad for the butt so you have a spot to weld your jaw to while using a high mount scope. They can be had online for under $30 delivered. They also make some very nice Cordura cheek rests, with shell holders for the same price.
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I used Dad's sportered 96 to do some 800 yd work.
That is with a Timney trigger, stock and action are bedded. Bbl free floated and a decent aftermarket stock.
Got tired of the long distance aficionados telling folks " You don't have the discipline to do it."
Was whacking a beer cooler sized rock at 800 yds with a rifle that prolly cost less than the glass on a long distance rig. Not at the spot where sky and earth meet in front of the muzzle, down a bit...pretty much pointed at the 800 yd target right there.
They are good rifles, good cartridge to boot
That is with a Timney trigger, stock and action are bedded. Bbl free floated and a decent aftermarket stock.
Got tired of the long distance aficionados telling folks " You don't have the discipline to do it."
Was whacking a beer cooler sized rock at 800 yds with a rifle that prolly cost less than the glass on a long distance rig. Not at the spot where sky and earth meet in front of the muzzle, down a bit...pretty much pointed at the 800 yd target right there.
They are good rifles, good cartridge to boot
