Newbie firearm cleaning tips

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Quik10

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Hi everyone,

This is my first thread on CGN, I introduced myself approximately a month ago on the introductions forum.

I should be receiving my RPAL in the following week(s), and already have a Ruger 10/22 Takedown and a CZ-75 SP-01 Shadow waiting for me at the store.

However, I don't know much about firearm cleaning (or anything firearm related, really!), nor do I know what to do when I first receive my firearms.
I'd like to start a discussion on the following points to have the collective perspective:

  • What do you do to your new firearm when you first receive it? How "deep" should initial cleaning go?
  • What kind of oil/solvent do you use/prefer?
  • What is your usual cleaning regimen or ritual?
  • Any other basic tips for newbies?

I've heard great things about FIRECLEAN oil/conditionner/cleaner, and it's available at my local range, so I might try it out. Some friends are crazy about Millitec-1 oil and separate solvents.

Hopefully this will be helpful for other members too.

Thanks for the tips!
 
I have been using hoppes 9 and cans of gun scrubber along with a standard gun cleaning kit for awhile. (also a boresnake)
I am looking into Froglube products now.
I have seen some great gun cleaning vids on youtube.
 
I started with buying a fairly big cleaning kit. It covers .17 - .30 cal., 9mm - .38 cal. Pistols and 12 ga. This way here I'm covered till I get something with a bigger bore. Then I'll get a kit that goes from .30 - .50 and covers the shot guns.

If you feel comfortable, tear the new gun down to be sure she's lubed.
Lots of light is good to have at your cleaning station.
 
"...do to your new firearm..." Hi. Start by reading the manual that comes with it. Then field strip it and clean it. The idea is to remove the shiping preservative. Any solvent will do. Hoppe's #9 or Outers you can get in Crappy Tire is good. You don't need anything special. You will need oil and grease.
Cleaning patches get expensive if you buy 'em from a gun shop. A yard or two of remnant cotton flannelette(winter sheets/PJ material) from any discount fabric shop will cost little and give you hundreds of patches. Ask the nice women working there.
There are several reasonably priced cleaning kits available. Any of 'em will do. Most are rifle or handgun kits, but jags etc aren't expensive.
 
Yeah, the initial "cleaning" is really more of a de-greasing. Take it apart, learn how it works, and clean it down to bare metal. Then give the important bits a little gun oil, and you're pretty much good to go.
 
Thanks for the replies, all.

So the first thing to do is to remove the shipping oil from the firearm with a solvent, like Hoppes' #9, then oil it.

How 'deep' should one go in the takedown? For example, on a Ruger 10/22, the receiver comes out with a couple of bolts and pins, and can be stripped down further relatively easily. Should I be cleaning everything I can, if I have the courage/patience required to disassemble the firearm to its smallest components? I'm sorry if this is relatively basic as a question, but I genuinely have no idea :/

I think I would feel comfortable stripping down my Ruger 10/22 Takedown completely (or at least mostly), but I'm not so sure I'd have the balls to fully takedown the CZ-75 SP-01 Shadow.

Again, thanks.
 
Actually, the CZ is likely a good deal easier to strip, clean and re-assemble than the 10/22. (mind you, I don't have personal experience with either...)

Pistols generally involve a takedown lever, quick slide removal, the barrel and the spring. That's pretty much it - 30 seconds max.

Once it's stripped, some work with a rag, q-tips and solvent makes quick work of cleanup and it's another 30 seconds to build it back up again.

Quick and simple.
 
clean as your CZ manual indicates. Oil the parts as recommended in the manual and do not over grease/oil the parts. It will attract dirt if there are too much grease/oil. Then you will be cursing your handgun when it wont functions as you are expecting. What type of cleaners / lube you use, is entirely up to you. But many people favors frog lube. I am favor break free and pro shots.
 
G96 also works wonders and is less potent (read chemical smell) when used indoors ..hoppes scrubs deeper ..but g96 in a spray can soak it for 5min works faster is easier to use and doesn't smell like acetone when used (hoppes 9 will stink your house up, personally I don't really care but most ladies don't enjoy it lol)

Also..invest in a good supply of facecloths as they make good all around rags (or go to a hotel and get some freebies ;)...)

G96 !!

Best tip I can give is>>>> " you tube" dissasembly and cleaning videos for all your guns!! Shows how to get em down for cleaning and get em back together without wondering and guessing ...most manuals aren't that great if you happen to be a visual learner..a video is more detailed..and the good ones are easy to find! Use them as a visual diagram and use common sense and caution on the little "personal tips" ..
 
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GearaDoga said:
Actually, the CZ is likely a good deal easier to strip, clean and re-assemble than the 10/22. (mind you, I don't have personal experience with either...)

Pistols generally involve a takedown lever, quick slide removal, the barrel and the spring. That's pretty much it - 30 seconds max.
Click to expand...

Yeah, for a general, quick cleaning of the CZ pistol:
takedown lever, remove the slide, barrel and recoil spring/guide rod
clean the barrel and slide rails,done.

But what about the trigger assembly? How "deep" into the mechanisms do I need to go?
Do I go down into the trigger assembly for initial cleaning?
Should extensive cleaning be left to gunsmiths?

To what extent is this type of schematic useful for cleaning (or is it at all)?
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Ruger-/Model-10-22-T-Blue-S-S-sid61.aspx

----

As for videos on youtube, the ones specific for my future firearms aren't that great.

Thanks for your patience!
 
Remoil and hoppes #9 solvent have been the standard for the majority of my guns. The first cleaning get as deep as you can and remove every drop of grease and oil, and replace with your prefered oil. I like the blue shop towels from canadian tire to lay over my table and for clean up, nice and tough. You asked how deep to go into your gun. That is a decision only you can make. Youtube videos will make it a lot easier to learn, but i like to learn by myself. Some guns can be a fun puzzle for a boring night. Make sure you buy all the tools you can. Every punch, every screwdriver, barrel vice, normal vice and a good torquedriver. With those tools you can do 99% of the work you would want to attempt on your gun.
 
This is what I understood from my research as a new first time owner.

1. Strip the gun and clean with solvent such as Hoppe's #9.
2. Oil it with gun oil
3. Grease rails

What confuses me is Hoppe's #9 has few variations. Some are copper remover some just cleaners so e solvents. Other thing is why oil and grease? Why just not oil?

Cheers!
 
Oil is runny and doesn't stay where you place it when heated, and it freezes easier. Grease is resistant to heat and somewhat cold. Grease stays where you put it for the most part.

Oil to prevent rust. Grease to prevent seizure.
 
I use automotive " brake kleen" from Napa and a tooth brush to clean my shadow. Field strip and also scrub the trigger and anywhere it looks dirty about every 500 rounds. Lube rails with synthetic motor oil like "Mobil 1" don't over oil as others have said. You will see where your gun gets wear marks and see where it needs to be oiled. Since you'll be shooting at a pistol club don't be afraid to ask others for help if you don't understand anything. You've chosen a good pistol which is very easy to take apart to clean in about 5 seconds.

10/22 is also best cleaned with a tooth brush the same way except you don't want to take it apart. A good cleaning rod with Hoppes #9 is good for the barrel because of dirty ammo. I find about 500 rounds is good for 10/22 also.

Check to see your unloaded before starting.
 
Agent 061 said:
This is what I understood from my research as a new first time owner.

1. Strip the gun and clean with solvent such as Hoppe's #9.
2. Oil it with gun oil
3. Grease rails

What confuses me is Hoppe's #9 has few variations. Some are copper remover some just cleaners so e solvents. Other thing is why oil and grease? Why just not oil?

Cheers!
Click to expand...

The different types of cleaners are different strengths and formulas for different jobs. Standard cleaners are just that, for regular cleaning. Copper cleaners are a different formula specifically for eating away stubborn copper deposits that get stripped from jacketed bullets over time. And so on.

For your needs, right now (new guns, general cleaning/maintenance)? Just grab a bottle of any standard cleaner (G96 guy, myself), a quality cleaning kit, and your choice of oil and/or grease. That's all you really need to cover the basics.
 
Youtube is your best friend for this man.

You should not have to #### with the trigger assembly just to clean it, and always make sure whatever you are using, if it can, or cannot touch anything non metal . I actually use a one step gun cleaner(called "PRO SHOT" Which works for me just fine), you coat it, let it break anything down, then wipe off (Use a nylon or wire brush for bore) It will leave a film of oil when you are done. Get cotton patches. The best move I ever made, was I started to use froglube , you heat it, then take a small hobby brush (Paint brush) And coat the contact points, like on the CZ, brush a very little bit of it onto where the slide makes contact with the frame and even less on the outside of the barrel (Hand rubbing in white lithium grease will work for some guns too, if the frog lube is to expensive) I own a CZ, and after using the froglube grease once, I could never go back to not using some sort of grease as it just makes it SOOO smooth. As others pointed out, grease stays around a lot longer then oil, when or if you get into older military guns like the M1A style or SKS's, grease is a great thing :D

I should mention, make sure your cleaning rod never comes in contact with your bore, or at least as little as possible, and I am switching to nylon brushes because I clean my firearms after every use, if thats your plan, go with nylon, if your going to clean you bore after "So many rounds" Use metal bore brushes.

And as the fella above me pointed out , a copper cleaner would be something you would use "Every so often" Not every cleaning, and I have never had to use it because I clean after every use, all my bores are always sparkling :D

You should be able to just field strip a gun to clean it, never remove the barrel (unless its a shotgun or easy to remove) or take apart the trigger assembly unless you NEED too. I own a CZ 85 combat, comes apart like nothing and it shoots awesomely, good choice.

Quik10 said:
Yeah, for a general, quick cleaning of the CZ pistol:
takedown lever, remove the slide, barrel and recoil spring/guide rod
clean the barrel and slide rails,done.

But what about the trigger assembly? How "deep" into the mechanisms do I need to go?
Do I go down into the trigger assembly for initial cleaning?
Should extensive cleaning be left to gunsmiths?

To what extent is this type of schematic useful for cleaning (or is it at all)?
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Ruger-/Model-10-22-T-Blue-S-S-sid61.aspx

----

As for videos on youtube, the ones specific for my future firearms aren't that great.

Thanks for your patience!
Click to expand...
 
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My recommendation, have a lot more patches, or rags than you think you might need. I found that with my first few guns I had to grab another two handfuls of patches beyond what I initially had.

I like to get as indepth with a new gun as I can. I really like to know exactly how the gun works, so I'll disassemble as far as I can. I don't take apart trigger groups or anything I can really screw up, but I will detail strip the gun.
 
Quick10, if you buy a new firearm, it will have instructions. Part of those instructions will tell you when to stop! Expressions like "There is no need to disassemble further for normal use." or the like. Good to stop there, unless you have gunsmith type re-assembly tools. You can retch springs, loose clips, break spring tips, and even get it back together wrong if you go further than you have instructions for. I once bought a 'very slightly' used (as in new, unfired, but previously disassembled by a new owner) High Standard that didn't work. I tore it down, put it back together right, and it has been banging along fine for forty years. I have never had the need to detail strip it since.
 
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