Newbie going to free float Rem 700 SPS

natesfitness

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I was planning on free floating the barrel of my Rem 700 SPS, is it really just as easy as sanding down the stock so there is no contact with the barrel? Also what exactly is bedding and is this something I can preform myself with limited tools and knowledge?

Also it should be noted I am working with the factory rem 700 SPS Buckmaster stock.
 
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Use the search tool on both your questions and you will get tons of related topics. In short, yes you can bed and free float your barrel yourself. Just do a bit of research into both these projects and take your time.
You have one thing working against you, the composite material your stock is made of, bedding material often needs to have small holes drilled into the stock for the bedding epoxy/glass to have a mechanical lock, as the bedding materials do not take/adhere to composite that well. Secondly it just sucks gouging/sanding out composite but it can be done, and done well, with some patience
 
"...really just as easy as..." Yep. If you haven't shot it, do that first with good ammo. You need a base line to know if floating the barrel makes a difference. Some rifles like it, some don't. Remington's tend to like it, but the only way to find out is to try it.
Start by running a $5 bill under the barrel to just before the chamber area. If it stops before you get to the chamber, there's a pressure point(that should be just aft of the end of the forestock). If it doesn't, the barrel is already free floating. Then just sand out the pressure point, reassemble the rifle and go shoot it again. If the accuracy gets worse, putting the pressure point back in is no big deal. You just put a dab of bedding material an inch or so in from the end of the forestock. Do not forget the release agent.
Bedding improves the fit of the stock to the receiver(You don't ever bed the whole barrel. Even if a pressure point is needed) and stops the receiver from moving in the stock. It's not hard to do, but does require a bit of patience(not a lot though). No special tools are needed. A padded bench vise makes it a bit easier. It's not a 100% guarantee of better accuracy, but it will improve consistency.
Buy an Acraglas Kit. About $30. Comes with instructions, the release agent and colouring so you can get close to the colour of a wood stock. It's two part epoxy with fibreglas powder for thickening and added strength. Use the same material for the pressure point should you need to put it back in. Do not forget the release agent.
Like Shack says, with a synthetic stock, a few wee drilled dimples will help. So will roughening the inside of the receiver area and out to under the chamber with sand paper.
 
To the best of my knowledge, no matter how much material you take out of an injection molded SPS stock, the stock itself is so flimsy you will still have contact. If you find some carbon arrows, and bed those into the fore end that will stiffen it up enough to allow a free float. Take your time and follow the instuctions, and the previous advice and you should get good results. Good luck!
 
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