Newbie looking for insight, stiffening up a stock

Remmy700

Remmy700

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So I'm pretty new to the whole long distance shooting, my Remington 700 has the overmolded hogue stock on it. I know there a little flimsy as mine doesn't free float when on a bipod, so before anyone says get a new stock I will add I'm a budget shooter and I like the stock. Is there anyway to stiffen up the stock? Little nervous about bedding it myself from lack of experience, and I've kinda capped at spending cost so if I mess up I can't afford another stock at the moment. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
ET
 
I personally would insert steel rods or carbon fibre arrows in between the ribs of the stock, I have seen people on top of that insert an expanding foam in the "dead space" of the stock.

I have the same stock on mine, and although I am going to try that out, I am saving up for an HS Precision stock.


Jack
 
Remmy700 said:
And how does one find the inch pound torque specs for the action bolts?

ET
Click to expand...

the only need to be snug enough to hold the acction into the stock, if your needing to crank them down to keep the action from movin around in the stock you need to have the thing bedded! IIRC mine are about 20in lbs

i know ur capped for a new stock, but save up, and keep an eye out in the EE hs precission take off stocks pop up from 150-200 and are well worth the investment
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I watched a video on the Remington 700 where they were changing the torque on the action bolt to try and increase accuracy?
 
It can be done , but it's not a good idea, differently torquing action screws adds all sort of weird stress to the action. A properly supported action (bedding) this method wouldn't work
 
I'm not wanting to mess with Torquing the action screws, but that's why I asked. So let say there torques to 65 inch pounds, wouldn't you want them torqued back to 65 so there's enough pressure on the action, but not so much your stressing the action?
 
I have sriffened the stock on my savage 111 300wm by inserting a 3/8 cols rolles steel rod in the forearm and covered it with carbon fiber and fiberglass (with marine epoxy resin)
but the the plastic itself is so soft that it bend on each side of the action. so it is waisted time unless you want to practice on a junk before to do it on a new stock

once your stock properly bedded, you can play a little with action screws torque but you need a screw driver torque wrench

personaly, I get good results around 30-35 "#
 
You don't always get great results with stiffening a plastic forenend. The forend becomes stiff, but it transfers the bending force to where the stiffening ends, typically just in front of the recoil lug and doesn't eliminate the problem entirely. You'll notice the higher end plastic stocks with an aluminum chassis in them, run the aluminum from the rear of the receiver forward to the bipod mounting point on the stock end.

You might be best off to hog out more material to lessen the chance of the stock touching the barrel, and be carefull about how much pressure you put on the bipod.
 
After reading Grizzlypeg's response it made perfect sense, so what I'm going to try is wrapping a socket with sandpaper and run that back and forth to see if I can gain enough clearance so the barrel will free float using a bipod, anyone else try this? Thanks for all the responses guys really appreciate it.

ET
 
longrangehunting.com/articles/savage-tactical-rifle-project-1.php[/url]
A little more in depth then what your trying to accomplish, but just to show you what others have done with the plastic stocks.
I dremelled the ribs out of the front of my savage stock and dropped in 2 lengths of 3/8 rod the entire length and used a lot of JB weld to hold them in. Helped a lot and I think it'll get me by til I can get a new stock some time.
 
Stock

Fill the barrel channel with spray foam and sand out the excess.The Hogue stock is awesome,all the paranoia is internet driven. If it's a bench gun only, you could buy an expensive aftermarket stock, accuracy will probably not change. If you use the gun for hunting as well, there's no better stock than the Hogue.
 
DO NOT DO A F**KING THING TO THAT PIECE OF SH*T UNTILL YOU CAN AFORD A NEW STOCK !

That stock was designed to make a good action look good on the shelf of a sporting goods store right before its thrown in the garbadge. Do not try anything anyone has suggested on this forum. That stock is going to make that rifle shoot as good as its going to the way its set up.

Your welcome ! i just saved you from putting your gun on the shelf because you f**ked the stock up and cant aford a new one right now.

better yet i have a tupper ware stock... that for some reason i didnt "throw in the garbdge" for that gun, if its long action. You can buy from me for $60 shipped when you screw that one up.

Feel free to pm me.

That stock can only take 20 inch pounds or you will start to pull the screws right through the stock.
If you had a wood or fiber glass stock that was "pillar bedded" you could go 60 inch pounds.
 
pilot2001 said:
DO NOT DO A F**KING THING TO THAT PIECE OF SH*T UNTILL YOU CAN AFORD A NEW STOCK !

That stock was designed to make a good action look good on the shelf of a sporting goods store right before its thrown in the garbadge. Do not try anything anyone has suggested on this forum. That stock is going to make that rifle shoot as good as its going to the way its set up.

Your welcome ! i just saved you from putting your gun on the shelf because you f**ked the stock up and cant aford a new one right now.

better yet i have a tupper ware stock... that for some reason i didnt "throw in the garbdge" for that gun, if its long action that you can buy from me for $60 shipped when you screw that one up.

Feel free to pm me.
Click to expand...

I agree with the above post. Shoot the rifle the way it is. Don't wast your time trying to deal with that stock. Shoot the rifle, become a better shooter and save your money for a better stock in the future. You will find more accuracy with well tuned handloads in that rifle then a stiffened up forend. I know this because I've helped a friend with his 700sps. We built a good load (0.75-0.8 moa) with the hoag stock. He has since re-barreled and restocked to build a tack driver after a couple of years gaining experience.
 
I bought a 6.5x55 Schultz and Larsen barreled Mauser 98, and put it in a $100 Choate flabby plastic stock, made sure it was free floated, and tightened the screws until they were tight. The rifle shoots 1/4 inch handloaded groups all day long, regardless of bullet weight. I know Remingtons can be fussy, but if you have one that shoots, it shouldn't matter what kind of voodoo stock options you try.
 
action scew torque

i torque my action screws to 40 in lbs, the only reason i do it is so every time i take off the stock and reinstall it the bolts are the same tightness,

the amount of torque isn't really important (within reason, 20 to 40 in lbs) but i think it is important that all the bolts are the same torque and they are always torqued the same, just for consistency

my 2 cents on action bolts
 
Well I was lucky enough that a CGN member PMed me and offered me his hogue stock for $25 so I have a spare to play around with. So if this stock is such garbage why would Remington put it on a "SPS TACTICAL" they know is going to be shot off a bipod or front rest? Isn't that what R&D/ testing is for? The plan is for a McMillan stock in the future but not at the present moment. Now completely off topic but what the general thoughts on the stock 1 in 9 twist 20" barrel it comes with?

Thanks for all the info
ET
 
I'm in the same boat, can't afford a new stock. I said fack it, I am cutting the sh*t out of my plastic savage stock. I dropped some steel rods into the front and JB welded them in there. I roughened the plastic up good and drilled a lot of tiny holes in it. Sticks just fine. I also bedded the action with JB. I'd reccommend Marinetex for the plastic stock, it sticks to plastic very well as thats sort of what it was designed for. I used marinetex on my M14 plastic stock. Pillar bed the plastic stock. Don't see why it wouldn't work more or less the same as doing it on fiberglass stock. It's a piece of metal so you can't squish the stock. My gun shoots wayyyy better after stiffening the front end up and bedding it. Is it as good a Fiberglass stock? NOPE.
But it cost me 25$ worth of supplies. Good enough. At the very least you'll learn a lot and I'm sure your groups will shrink atleast a little.
JMO
 
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