Newbie reloader - where to start?

metalslug

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
13   0   0
I decided I'm going to start reloading for my 8mm Mauser, just for target shooting and possibly hunting in the future. No other calibers yet as I have no problem getting ammo for them right now. So, where do I begin? What companies should I look to for reloading equipment? Who makes good affordable bullets/powder/primers? Can I cut down 30-06 cartridges for my Mauser? (I have a ton of those). What is the best reloading book to pick up, I've heard mixed reviews about Lee's Loading. I'll experiment with different bullet weights, 170/198gr or whatever else may be available.
I wanted to try a few years ago but a guy at the gun shop scared the #### out of me by saying it's a true science and if I mess up even in the slightest, I could blow my face off. I got over that and said it's time to just do this.
 
Best place to start is with a book called ABCs of Reloading. Large paperback, any of the recent editions will do. It gives the best intro to the art and sport of reloading, looking at different types of gear and so forth. Read it through and you'll have most of your questions answered.

From there, you can be reloading for less than 100 bucks plus the cost of components. Top end is essentially as much money as you can get and $10 more.

It is a science and, yes, screw up and you can destroy the weapon - or worse. Pay attention and follow reliable load data and that won't happen. There are some guys who reload while drinking and watching television. They don't stay reloading too long. Focus, check, recheck and then check again and it's safe as can be.

Welcome to the dark side.
 
I've always used the Lyman manual. But I shoot cast and they are the only ones who give a rats about that.

Presses, measures, dies can be bought used. Don't think I'd buy a used scale or opened powder, and if newly made or once fired brass is available I don't bother converting cases, and I do not recommend that you do either until you know exactly what you're doing. Don't add to the slope of the learning curve that is already on the steep side.

Follow the data, don't recklessly chase max loads, pay attention, and you won't have a bad day.
 
Ok, so first off, the guy at the gun shop is an idiot. Follow the guidelines that are outlined in a good reloading manuel and your hand loads are every bit as safe as factory loads.

I started reloading a little over a year ago and purchased the Lee 50th Anniversary kit. It is GREAT. It was low cost and came with most of the things that you need to get set-up to start reloading. The press is an "O" design meaning that it will handle the largest magnum calibers with ease and you never need to worry about the press itself flexing.

Other than the Lee kit, you will need:

Dies for the caliber you want to reload
A set of calipers
Lee Pilot & Shell Holder For Lee Case Trimmer (The cutter and lock stud come with the kit, this is everything you will need to trim the cases to the right length)
A tumbler and media to clean your brass
A loading tray to hold your brass while loading them
A good loading book (I purchased "Modern Reloading - Second Edition - Richard Lee" this seems to have a tonne of great info in it and has been all that I have needed.)
A powder trickler is optional, not necessary, but it does make things easier if you are looking to get loads exact.

As far as components go, you'll have to play around with them to see what your gun likes best. Here's what I have found personally:

Brass:

I used the brass that I had left from Federal bulk ammo and reloaded this for my .223, Federal brass isn't supposed to be great, but it sure works for me. My rifle shoots sub MOA consistantly with my hand loads.

I also use Remington brass for my 22-250. I haven't gotten it out to the range yet, but the brass seems pretty good, it is fairly consistant in weight.

Primers:

I'm sure some will disagree, but I have found that primers are primers... I use Federal and Remington and see no difference at all...

Bullets:

This is going to be different per gun. Hornady and Lapua are the ones that I use and have had excellent results with both.

Powder:

This is also going to vary a little based on your gun and what you are looking to do with it. Something to keep in mind is that the closer to full that you get the cartridge the better accuracy you will achieve. The reason for this is that when the cartridge is laying on it's side the powder is going to be very close to evenly distributed from front to back. When the primer fires it sends it's blast out in 3 directions, if the case is only 1/2 full then the blast (or blasts) that shoot upward are going to go through air in the case rather than powder and because of this they will get to the front of the case faster and ignite the powder at the front before the powder in the middle is ignited. This will cause the powder to meet in the middle of the case and the two explosions to collide with one another. You don't want this to happen.

When you pick a powder, do your homework first. The loading manuel will tell you the max loads for each powder by caliber, MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THIS GUIDELINE. They will also tell you what percentage of the case will be filled with the max load.

Something else to keep in mind is that you won't gain any additional accuracy (unless you are getting into long range) by going with a higher muzzle velocity, accuracy is achieved by the repeatability of your loads, having all elements as close as possible from one cartridge to the next. What WILL change with different muzzle velocities is your point of impact.
 
I am not down-thumbing the Lyman manual. I have one and think it's great. For a general introduction to the types of reloading gear (not brands so much as types), how they function, their advantages and disadvantages, etc, I think ABCs is the better place to start. It's only shortfall is that it doesn't contain much load data (recipes, ie), so eventually a good manual will be needed. It's still a very good investment for one thinking of getting into reloading.
 
Yes you can use 30-06 cases to form 8mm mauser, it will require necking up the cases then reforming the shoulder and a lot of trimming. I would recommend you get the hang of reloading 8mm cases first. There are some good videos on the web for step by step instruction as well as getting a good manual to follow. Most books give you a guide to follow, RCBS has a guide on it's web site but it is not very detailed. Ask questions and the guys here are more than willing to help.
 
When you pick a powder, do your homework first. The loading manuel will tell you the max loads for each powder by caliber, MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THIS GUIDELINE.

Just don't assume that every load, listed in every manual, will be safe in every rifle, because that isn't always true. That is why you work up loads, while watching for pressure signs. As well, the maximum load listed for a given combination of components, will often vary by 5% or more, from manual to manual.
 
All good advice. However your statement about higher muzzle velocity not providing better accuracy is not entirely accurate. There are several nodes where accuracy will be at its best. For simplicity sake, lets just say a low, med, high node. To reach these accuracy nodes you must adjust the powder charge. Sometimes though you cannot reach the next higher node without getting into pressure problem. The point is that most people start at the lowest published starting load and work up from there. An increase in muzzle velocity is a by product of increasing the powder charge if all other things are equal. For example when I am loading for my 6ppc, there is an accuracy node around 28.8 g of N133. I also know there is one around 29.3 and 30.1. Going from 28.8 to 30.1 definitely increases muzzle velocity and accuracy will be the same or better depending on ambient conditions and many other factors.
 
Last edited:
I started loading last year by purchasing a RCBS kit from Prophet River. I found that the included Speer manual has a great 'how to' at the front of it. My preferred bullets were Nosler so I also purchased a manual from them (which also has a great introduction to loading).. Other items purchased to date are digital calipers, dies, powder, primers, case trimmer, powder trickler, and Brownell's bullet comparator. If you have a range nearby, have a look at the pistol range for discarded plastic trays that match the diameter of the shells you're loading (that's a poor man's version of loading trays). Watch some vids on youtube like this one to get it started in you head: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zSG804HwVk
 
Study up and then kidnap a good reloader.
See if someone in your group of associates reloads and get invited over.
I do reloading in stages.
Prep brass in bunches and then do the powder charge and bullet seat.
I would recommend to try your sized brass first in the chamber to see that
it will in fact fit before you proceed any further.
Hunting rounds I always chamber each and every one.........safely out in the sticks.
Lots of surprise stories on rounds not fitting where they are suppose to at the least
opportune moments.

And focus.....no yapping on the phone, puff'n wacky tabbaki and such.
 
I've always used the Lyman manual. But I shoot cast and they are the only ones who give a rats about that.

Presses, measures, dies can be bought used. Don't think I'd buy a used scale or opened powder, and if newly made or once fired brass is available I don't bother converting cases, and I do not recommend that you do either until you know exactly what you're doing. Don't add to the slope of the learning curve that is already on the steep side.

Follow the data, don't recklessly chase max loads, pay attention, and you won't have a bad day.

I have many reloading books, but the one I like best is Lyman 49th edition
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/publications/49th-edition.php
I am sure the ABC would be a good choice as well.

+1on the Lyman manual. By far the best I've read out of a dozen of the most common.
 
Back
Top Bottom